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Pcmodeler
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just failed my state inspection. My brake light works when I apply the front brake but not when I apply the rear brake. Anyone have any ideas of where to start????
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Get a multimeter and check the rear brake switch.
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Pcmodeler
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OK. I've never fully learned to use a multimeter aside from reading capacitor values. I disconnected the switch and did a test on the switch side and bike side of the electronics. On the bike side I'm getting a solid reading at just over 98k. I tried all the settings on the switch side with depressing the brake pedal and get nothing. Safe to say that's the switch????

I'm trying to figure out how that small switch unit comes out. I see that it goes into a screw in unit but it looks like the whole thing has to unscrewed allowing all the fluid out as well. I don't see how the switch pulls out on it's own. Some kind of sealed assembly it appears.

Dang, I wish I knew where my manual was.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is the diagram from the service manual. It does look like you will lose the fluid. When is the last time you flushed the brake fluid?

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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You may also be able to just clean out the switch. It looks similar to the fuel pressure switch that is on my Craftsman riding mower. It always clogs up because of the ethanol in the gas.
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Pcmodeler
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nuts. I don't mind having to drain the fluid but what a pain in the butt to have to do it. Plus now I'll probably need a new switch and it's an hour and a half round trip to the dealer plus I'm thinking I might not be so lucky with them having that in stock. Guess I better make a call in the morning. I could attempt to clean it first but that would mean draining fluid twice if it doesn't work.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When you apply the rear brake is it biting down like it should?

There may be an air bubble trapped by the switch.
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Greg_e
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes it seems like your switch is dead or there is a big bubble sitting right on top of it.
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Pcmodeler
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, as for biting down that's a bit of a loaded question since the rear brakes are far from great on the buell anyways. They feel like they've always felt so I'm guessing it's not a bubble. I'm betting just a bad sensor. I guess at this point I have to expect some of that stuff from a 7 year old bike.........especially one that was bought used and had been laid down numerous times. Seems like I'm replacing all the sensors as I go. Did the engine temp sensor a couple of years ago. Speed sensor and now rear brake sensor......what's left??????
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Nik
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

did you try shorting the wires on the bike side of the harness that go to the brake sensor?

You shouldn't be using a multimeter to measure resistance in this case; Voltage would serve you better.
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Pcmodeler
Posted on Saturday, June 12, 2010 - 07:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You know, I guess shorting out the wires should have been the first thing I tried and yeah, that worked so looks like it is the switch then.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Saturday, June 12, 2010 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The brake switch wires do not carry voltage, it switches to ground.

Everyone should avoid switching the +12 volts when possible. It causes an arc, which leaves marks and black residue on the contacts, which causes premature failing of the switch.
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