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Buell Forum » XBoard » Put in gear, let go of clutch, bike doesn't move.... « Previous Next »

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Nextcorner
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just replaced the gasket on my primary cover. Put everything back together, adjusted the clutch, adjusted primary shoe. I start up, hear it "clunk" into first gear, but the bike doesn't move when I let out the clutch. It is not the clutch cable, i checked that. HELP!!
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Nextcorner
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Clutch release mechanism, adjusting screw? Maybe I turned it too far during install?
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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That would be my only thought. You would need to put some pretty good force into clamping that screw down. Anything beyond what you can put with the tip of your finger and thumb is too much.

Read then watch:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/548791.html?1270094694
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Ulynut
Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Did you take it off the rear stand?
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Mikellyjo
Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2010 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

@Ulynut...I was going to ask if maybe he forgot to start the bike.
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Sslowmo
Posted on Sunday, June 06, 2010 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the drive belt
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Afinley
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, if you can shift with the bike running, but not get any power to the back wheel, it is something in the final drive
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Nextcorner
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Found the problem. It was the adjusting screw on the clutch release in the primary. I had turned it clockwise to about a "slightly under firm" tightness. To correct it, i backed off about 1/2 turn.
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Nextcorner
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments. Not sure how people think that someone is savvy enough to take off the primary cover but yet dumb enough to forget to start the bike when they end up running into a unforeseen problem (clutch adjustment screw).
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Ulynut
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments.

Relax, it's just some good-natured chop bustin'.

Glad you got it fixed.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

I'm not sure what to make of the lame "obvious" and "duh" comments.




You wouldn't be the first person that couldn't get their bike going because they never turned the kill switch to run.
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Nextcorner
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It's all good. I took a look at the video, posted by Greg_e. But I would appreciate if someone had a little better description of how/where to adjust the clutch release adjustment screw. I just turned it back "clockwise" 1/2 turn and it worked. Not sure if it needs tweaking at all, or if I should just leave it as is.
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Nobuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1. Shorten the cable housing at the adjuster (under boot) until there is a large amount of play in the lever
2. Remove the spring and lock-plate
3. turn adjusting screw CCW until it lightly bottoms
4. Turn the adjusting screw CW 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5. Install lock-plate and spring on the adjusting screw flats. If hex on the lock-plate does not align wit the recess in the outer ramp, rotate adjusting screw slightly CW until it aligns.
6. Squeeze clutch hand lever to max three times. This sets the ball and ramp mechanism.
Adjust the cable (using cable adjuster) play at the cable ferrule to achieve 1/16" to 1/8" of play.
7. Lock the cable adjuster and install boot.
8. Install cover and torque to 84 - 108 in-lbs
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Brumbear
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

at least you didn't mod your ECM some of you guys remember that I am sure
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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It's the lightly bottom out screw part along with push the lever back toward the rear wheel that seems to be the most important. When you watch the video notice that I'm spinning the screw driver with just my fingers and I check it a couple times before backing off that quarter turn. If it helps get a tiny pocket sized screwdriver so that you won't be tempted to over tighten that screw adjuster.

I may have to redo that video, I have some close up lenses so I can get things in better focus, I can get anywhere from about 5 centimeters to infinity away, and I would take the time to use a tripod too.
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Nextcorner
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys. Piece of cake now.

Brumbear, I did mods to my ECM last summer. Not sure what you mean though.... (about remembering)...
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No_rice
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

someone drilled through their ecm MANY MANY times and then didnt understand why the bike wouldnt run. and they wanted to hotwire around the ecm so the bike would run once people told them what they did...

it was awesome! lol
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Nextcorner
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nice! I don't think I ever came across that one.
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Greg_e
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How does one drill the ECM? Even on the R I can't think of the work that was being done that could allow you to drill it.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It was a ninja on another board.
Some tool tried to install a fender eliminator kit with a drill, big bolts, and cheap beer.
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Borrowedbike
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Next, please not that the adjustment screw is BACKED OUT CCW until snug then turned in CW 1/4 to 1/2 turn. You were the other way in your description above.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Greg - http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r-forum/14462-f i-light-need-help.html


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Nextcorner
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

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L8_br8ker
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2010 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

what??, your not supposed to ventilate those? (heat builds up in there, those holes are there to let it escape)
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