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S10darkascanb
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey guys noob to badweb here. I searched the archives a few hours last night but didn't find the info I needed exactly. I have a spare stock muffler which my uncle and I are going to modify. What I would like to know is where exactly is the best place to split these bad boys open. And how are the internals mounted? Do I need to cut off both ends or just the tail piece or should I lop off the front and back then split the seam? Any insight would be helpful. Also any idea how long the tuned tube should be inside? I am planning a single pass muffler dual outlets. I'm looking for sound primarily without killing the motor output entirely....thanks in advance
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Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

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S10darkascanb
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok cool from that picture I gather atleast 2 cuts are in order....1 at the rear cap weld and one right after the valve
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B00stzx3
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You can send it Special ops and have them make a badazzzz muffler for $285 with the stocker iirc. And it won't pop rivets my my Jardine does!
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you only need to make one cut just in front of the outlet and about a 1/2" behind where the mounting strap goes.

The rest is pressed in and can be pulled out.
Its a pain but it can be done.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

The rest is pressed in and rusted together and can be pulled out.




Fixed that for ya! ; )
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S10darkascanb
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks wolf that's the kind of info I was really lookin for
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The ones I have done didn't have to much rust.... its when the have a big dent in the bottom.... that sucks
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Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ah yes, a big dent WOULD make that difficult!
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Drkside79
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So is the 9 the same thing with no valve?
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So is the 9 the same thing with no valve?

yeah.... but for some reason the 9 pipe is harder to pull apart.
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S10darkascanb
Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ok this is a pain in the ass.... Just saying. And i hacked it in 2 places 1 just wasnt working... Next weekend ill finish it when my uncle brings home the TIG.
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Odie
Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The 9 pipe internals are wrapped with metal whereas the 12 internals are just the bulkheads and the 3 internal pipes. 9 is much more difficult to get open for sure, at least most times.
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Zombie_lord
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

do you have a 12 or a 9 ?
see my posts on the cherry bomb hack. works well, but keep full length of muffler. in the end though, you really need to jump into the deep end, swap air filter, and re-program the ECMto gain the most from the stock setup. There are several places you can send your stock exhaust to get mod'd, which is probably the easiest and cheapest option. you will allways have to re-ampp the ECM profile however.
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Redbuell_really_gives_you_wings
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is my hack job


Makes more power and noise compared. Those SS caps were welded on before i stick welded the cover back on. A mig is highly recommended

If i was to make any other mods, it would be to fit or bend the inlet pipe to aim directly towards the centre out pipe.



(Message edited by redbuell_really_gives_you_wings on May 25, 2010)
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Bratigan
Posted on Saturday, May 29, 2010 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is a mod I made to an existing Special OPS. The guts were already out and I made an internal system with larger diameter pipes. My system uses the valve. It is awesome so far, no remap yet as only 4 cells are effected. Just go to this link and check it out.
http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourse lf-Buell-Mods/Modded-XB12-Exhaust

BR
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