| Author | Message | ||
     Buellster42 |
Some how my bolt(top) broke that hold header pipe on and it's gonna cost me big time. I had modified the muffler slightly for sound, so my warranty was voided if I did not buy a new header pipe (which isn't bronze color like the other one) and I had to buy another muffler. I bought the jardine instead of the stock @ $360.00. Of all the bikes I ever owned, this is the first one to go to the shop. The bad part is it been there (Mancuso Harley) for over a month! | ||
| Kds1 |
Buellster, Sounds like you must have gotten a weak bolt...It can happen...The louder the exhaust note, the more vibration that is created....Of course any part can be faulty( the dreaded bolt)...hope you're on the road soon...If anyone's exhaust noise is louder than stock, it's a good idea to keep a check on the mounting points...KEVIN | ||
| Yeahcmon |
Is it broken off in the head or do you still have some of the bolt sticking out. You could drill it out and use a good extractor(MAC or equivelant)and it should back right out. If not you may have to drill it all the way out re-tap it and put a helicoil in it. Don't know you mech skills but this with some good advise you may be able to do it yourself for a lot less than 500 bucks. If not take it to a machine shop, the dealership is going to rape you!!!! | ||
| Spiderman |
The pipe will be silver to you run it. Stainless turns gold after heat is applied. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Buells - This is a fairly common, straightforward job for a machinist with the right skills & tools. On the other hand, a sloppy mechanic can really make a mess of the head. The impulse is to opt for the seemingly "easy way" by using a hand drill and attempting to drill a hole down the center of the bolt. It can be done, but you gotta be good. If you plan to do it yourself, email me & I'll try to help you out. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Then of course there are the really nice reverse cut bits that bite into the bolt and are very easy to control with a cordless handrill... | ||
| Davefl |
If it is the bolt in the head Jims makes a tool to extract it for about 70 dollars. I have one of these and have used on my S3. It works great and on the S3 I did not have to remove the head to use it, your result may vary. | ||
| Dyna |
The impulse is to opt for the seemingly "easy way" by using a hand drill and attempting to drill a hole down the center of the bolt. Had to do just that myself once on my Dyna right after I got it. Was nervous as hell, but with a steady hand, a good centerpunch & a series of progressively larger drill bits it was a piece of cake. | ||
| Buellman1 |
Take the shortest bolt you can get that is the same size as the bolt you are removing. Drill the biggest hole you can down the center of without screwing it up. Butt it up to the broken bolt. Weld down the center of the bolt. Take wrench remove bolt. Works 99% of the time. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
This is the tool I was talking about. ITs reverse cut so you use reverse on the drill. As it bites into the bolt it puts tension that helps to back out the bolt. With the adjustable wedge it digs in as well to assist. Since it is a slow speed operation, its very easy to control.  | ||
| Buellster42 |
Thanks for all of the info fella's. This was one hard lesson. The hardest part was not having my psychiatrist (xb9) for a month. I'm in the counseling field and the bike is my outlet, if you know what I mean or know Bill. | ||
| Davefl |
I like the idea about welding on a short section of bolt. I would disconnect the ECM just to be safe. The Jims tool is just a drill guide. With it you drill out the bolt minus the threads. After drilling you just pull out the threads and put it back together. The stud in my head was broken off below flush and at an angle, I did not feel safe drilling by hand with no guide. | ||
| Buellster42 |
What recourse do I have if the dealer can't find my original header pipe? They said they threw it away, after I told them I want all parts from the bike. | ||
| Aaron |
You guys need to keep in mind that those studs use an interference fit thread. Lots of people have broken off extraction tools because they underestimated how tight that broken piece is stuck in there. And then you have a real problem. Carbide drill bits in that size run $15 apiece and you'll go through a few of them before you drill out an easy-out. The only safe way to do it, IMO, is like Dave sez, get the JIMS drill guide and drill it out. Then heli-coil it. Then mount your pipe right so you don't break it again. If the pipe is moving around relative to the engine, it's stressing those studs. A leading sign of a problem is when the nuts don't stay tight by themselves. | ||
| Davefl |
I did not need to use a heli-coil with mine. The threads in the head were not damaged at all. Your results may vary. | ||
| Mikej |
Buellster, About all you can do is try to document what the old parts are worth on the used market, show proof that you wanted the old parts (something written on the work order would do), and hope that the dealership cares about your future business. The parts are either in the dumpster, or are sitting in someone's closet who snagged them on the way to the dumpster. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Aaron - I have to agree with you on this one. I don't know how many times I've had to clean out busted taps and extractors out of botched jobs on industrial machinery. Its a real nightmare when you get hardened steel down in the hole. Nevertheless I'd probably use Dyna's method if I could get a clean shot with my drill at the center of the bolt. I'd really take my time and if the torque on the extractor got to that point where you start to wince (you know what I mean) I'd back off and do it Aaron's way. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Three diamond tipped dremel bits, about 4 hours, a hammer, a sharp punch, and about 2 gallons of blood, sweat, and tears. The man knows of what he speaks  | ||
| Bomber |
jersey -- the guy that taught me leftie loosey righty tighty, except for Chrysler lug nuts, also refered to something he called "mechanic's feel" . .. .. you hit the nail on the head when you wrote "you start to wince" . . . . .of course, to get to that point that you start to wince, you have to have made that "tink" sound a couple or three times . . . . now that mechanics are called technicians, I'm not sure if they have it or not | ||
| Al_lighton |
The key to getting those (and broken motor mount bolts) out are: 1) Left handed Cobalt Drill bits 2) Torch with needle flame 2) the stubby type easy outs, not the cheesy home depot type. Wrong extractor type  Right extractor type  2673,2674&sesnextrep=235976007687958&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=778&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct=,http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/DisplCtlgPage.asp?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=2673&CtlgEdition=&RelatedCtlgPgs=2672,2673,2674&sesnextrep=235976007687958&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=778&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct= http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/psearch.asp?FAM=metaldrills&FT_320=38378&FT_523=38181&FT_775=38131&FT_780=38161&FT_781=38764&FT_783=38898&FT_785=38164&desc=Left%2DHand+Cobalt+Steel+Drill+Bit edited by al_lighton on April 27, 2004 | ||
| Yeahcmon |
Absolutely necessary for the right extractor. MAC sells the one on the bottom. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Bomber - LOL, I've felt that "tink", awww shit a few too many times.... | ||
| Sarodude |
Aaron- Would an EDM process affect the interference fit? -Saro |
