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Phelan
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Howdy all. I am putting XB9 forks on my S2, to delete the weight of the caliper adapter I built a while back, as well as superceding the replacement of the fork seals in my old forks : D. Anyway, I'm looking at them, and correct me if wrong please. The top nut is preload, the top flathead is compression, and lower flathead is rebound, correct? My S2 is probably at least 50 lbs heavier than an XB, right, without luggage? And should I turn the preloa. All the way right for my application, or back off a little? Where should I put the other dials?
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The lower screw on the fork leg is the compression, the upper screw is the rebound.
With regards to where they ought to be set...

The more lines you see doing the preload the lighter the load.
7 lines showing is set for less that 130lbs
4 lines showing is set for 230-400lbs

Compression 2 turns out is set for less than 130lbs
1 turn out is set for 230-400lbs

Rebound 1 3/4 turns out is set for less than 130lbs
1 1/4 turns out is set for 230-400lbs

Without knowing the true weight of you and your bike, any guess would be only a guess.
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Phelan
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My weight is 180, and the bike is about 500, so I assume set it 370 and go from there?
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hard to say really.
I'd try 6 lines showing, if that was too rough go to 5.
With regards to compression and rebound, yeah, I'd start there.
Remember only make small changes, and write everything down, so if it gets worse, you can easily go back to what worked better.
Go for a good ride to test, after making a small change, make that same ride again.
Always small changes, one change at a time.
Always test the settings taking the same ride each time.
Once you get it set, you'll love it, so be patient.
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99buellx1
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Go here and watch some of the Two Clicks Out videos.
http://www.onthethrottle.com/content/category/5/24 /73/

Great series.


This specifically may benefit you.

http://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/73/73/
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Slaughter
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't bother with counting lines - adjust by measuring sag directly. You need about 35mm on the front, 25mm on the rear to start. This is with EVERY PIECE of gear that you own on the bike - leathers, helmet, boots. Takes a couple buddies to help do it.

Damping just means you have to start somewhere once you've set sag.

Others can chime in - because damping adjustmends really get "personal"

I (personally) start with about a half of total damping if I'm starting from scratch. By this, I mean bottom the screw, then count turns until it is all the way out. Screw them all the way back in and then open them about half way out. You'll likely be kinda OK - but a bit under-damped. You really have to ride the same conditions at same speed repeatedly a few times before making a lot of changes.

There are lots of articles around on suspension setups. The OTT videos on Two Clicks Out are EXCELLENT.

Most folks would rather mess with their engines than suspension since to truly get suspension working requires some thought. Most folks want to bolt on some goodies, get some power and declare themselves to be quick.

Get a notebook, record all your settings and changes. It'll be worth your effort.

(Message edited by slaughter on April 22, 2010)
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for that Steve.
I had a hell of a time getting mine right.
We did start off with setting the sag, I just forgot about it, since I've not had to change anything.

Get a notebook, record all your settings and changes. It'll be worth your effort.
If I'm not mistaken, you're where I got that advise from.

Others can chime in - because damping adjustmends really get "personal"
Too true!
I like mine pretty stiff and solid feeling, I'm not on the track.
Mike likes his all soft and squishy, he races, and probably spends more time there than the street.
Solid and Squishy are relative and personal terms, your solid may be someone else's squishy.
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Wfhaag
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am newbie (one year) to buell. I set the settings per my owners manual, per my personal weight. Is this not the proper way to get it in the ball park? Do you have to take the bike weight into consideration as well?
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The owner's manual settings are good for street riding.
What kind of riding do you do?

Setting the sag is the place to start.
You will have to have someone help you.
The video posted above is actually pretty good.
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Randomchaos
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yup, those videos are awesome.
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