| Author | Message | ||
     Iman501 |
so its starting to be closer to spring here, i saw about five bikes out today, and is rather annoying how i cant ride mine yet (no insurance) so i plan on calling the insurance Co. tomarrow to set that up, and my bike has been on and off the battery tender (share the tender with my dads bike) i go out today to just start it up. and it wouldnt start (i think its still to cold) it'll fire, but wont actually start....anybody have any tips to get it started in the cold? I know getting a thinner oil will help, but other than that, any ideas? | ||
| Boney95 |
She should fire up as is. I normally don't fire mine up until its time to bust her out for spring, but I had to a couple of weeks ago to make sure my throttle cables are not binding after I put on some CrossRoads. She started right up. Battery is continuously on a tender. You may have an issue? | ||
| Bads1 |
Have you been starting your bike from time to time through the Winter and just letting idle with a blip of the throttle from time to time ??? If you have been thats your problem. Your bike doesn't need to be started unless you intend to ride. Its best just to leave it be. Chances are your front plug is fouled. Take it out and replace it. | ||
| Iman501 |
Hmmm i havent really been starting it up much, maybe 3 times or so....would that be enough to foul the plugs? | ||
| Boney95 |
Yeah I'd say so, if a plug is fouled, it'll be that much harder to start, if you can get it started at all. But 3 times isn't a whole lot...guess it depends on how long you let it idle. | ||
| Bads1 |
Yes when its cold it can. And if your rev ving it in the cold you'll foul them out. Put a new plug in.... start.... shut it down and walk away till your ready to ride. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If it's only partly fouled, you can hold the throttle at like 10% (just crack it a hair and hold it, don't whack it open over and over again) while you're on the starter button. As soon as it fires, release the throttle. Sometimes when it's really cold out, my Uly fights back and this always works. +1 on changing your plugs though, if it flat-out refuses to start. And +1000 on the "don't start it unless you're gonna ride it" plan. | ||
| Nickh |
@Iman501 Does your bike rest on the kickstand during the winter or do you have it up on stands? -Nick- | ||
| Whitexc |
^^^^Is this bad? Mine sits on the 'ol kicker. I haven't ever fired mine up as it seems pretty grumpy when it gets below 30ish. I put her to sleep and it's almost time to wake her up. (Message edited by whitexc on February 28, 2010) | ||
| Iman501 |
Im guessing the plugs r bad then so what do you guys sugest? ive googled a bit, and people said the Iridiums seem to be a good brand. Also how do i go about changing them? i have only really ridden the bike once so far, and that was on the test ride from w/ i bought it. I got it home, and basically just parked it in my barn. its been on the kickstand, and i know ill get hell for this, but it doesnt have fuel stabilizer in it either, the only thing is i switch the battery tender between my dads honda and my bike every once in a while. (Message edited by iman501 on February 28, 2010) | ||
| Nickh |
Resting it on the kickstand should affect the start at all. I have my bike on a rear stand during the winter and I think it changes the oil level a bit since it's kept in the swingarm. Before I start mine when it's cold, I take my bike off of the stand and let it sit on the kickstand a bit. -Nick- | ||
| Iman501 |
I haven't ever fired mine up as it seems pretty grumpy when it gets below 30ish. it was about 30ish today when i tried.... | ||
| Greg_e |
35 at the last time I had mine running, fired right up but that was back in December. | ||
| Iman501 |
so i googled fouled plugs on buells.....seems like that may be my problem. Some of the stuff i read that google brought up were from the ULY section of badweb, and the OP had the same issue as me more or less, they would start it up in the cold w/o really riding, or they would blip te throttle evertime they would start it which seems to be a bad idea as well which i'm guilty of both They said that the front plug isnt to hard to change i think it said its behind the air scoop....(is that correct?) they said the back one is a different story. they said its kinda a pain to change due to its position. will i have to change both? Bads1 said i will probably have to change the front one. why would it be that i only have to change the front one and not both?.... | ||
| Greg_e |
Front plug is not problem, just remove the scoop and put a wrench on the sparkplug socket. The back needs a wobble extension or a wobble socket to get it out. A U joint might do the job too. I did mine without either and it was not something I will repeat so I bought a wobble socket for a few bucks. (Message edited by Greg_E on February 28, 2010) | ||
| Iman501 |
so do i need to replace both? or just the front as bads1 has said? | ||
| Gunut75 |
Just do both. I just got a set of Iridiums, and will be installing them tomorrow. Let me know if you have problems with the gapping, as the electrode is very thin. Total cost for the plugs is about 13-14 bucks. Mine were gapped to .029. I regapped them to .035. I would use the same type of plug in each hole. Thats why I would do both. The rear plug is not bad at all. Make sure you have the right tools (6" extension, 3/8 swivel joint, and a piece of tube). | ||
| Iman501 |
a piece of tube?...... | ||
| Iman501 |
does anybody know what the part numbers are for a good set of spark plugs? something i could get at auto zone or someplace similar? | ||
| Greg_e |
DO NOT change the gap on the iridiums! They are pregapped and should not be messed with. Plugs at: http://www.harley-performance.com/harley-spark-plug.html Apparently we use the Vrod column. (Message edited by Greg_E on February 28, 2010) | ||
| Gunut75 |
The ones I got are NGK DCPR9EIX 2316. Just tell the person at Autozone those #s and they can get them. When I got the Iridiums, they were gapped at .029/.027. Checked with a pin gauge. Why run a shorter gap? I already re-gapped them, but they are not in the bike yet. Whats the gig? The piece of tubing is for reinstalling the rear spark plug. Put it over the porcelain top of the spark plug, and feed it through the hole. Rotate the tube to get the threads started in the head. If you try his with a socket and swivel chances are you wont feel if the plug starts to crossthread. If you crossthread it bad enough, your looking at head removal, and a fix. Do you have a service manual? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I run stock plugs. I ride in single digit temps. I don't start it unless I'm gonna ride it. I don't foul plugs. I have my original '06 Battery in my only XB, my '06 Uly. 11,000 miles and climbing, and I haven't even washed it yet! | ||
| Fudge1340 |
don't start the fuel injected buell in cold weather. you will foul out the plugs and have to replace them with new ones. This happened to my husbands 2010 xb12r thats new. Service manager told him to just keep the battery charged. Don't try and idle it in cold weather Also plugs take about an hour to change. | ||
| Etennuly |
Lubricate the threads with Anti-sieze. It is near mandatory for preserving the life of your spark plug hole threads. Make certain that it has screwed in at least three or four full turns before using a wrench or socket on it. | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
ok basic engine fi knowedge. temp should not make a big difference . plugs are USUALLY pre gapped but you need to check and verify it is what it should be gapped at.no matter brand or application. my 03 xb runs great and idles great in cold weather. and use anti sieze to protect your holes !!!! the idea of more fuel to start a cold engine is not new.the fi system pumps more fuel to start a cold engine and has little to do with local outside air temps.IE engine is cold as in it is not at operating temps, not cold as in it's ten degrees outside. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Well, I went to install my new plugs, and the threads in the rear cylinder galled when unscrewing the plug. Today I'm starting disassembly to rotate the engine down. Then, depending on how bad the threads are, maybe pop the head. I regapped the iridiums by using a small piece of copper tube that was filed down enough on one side to put it on the little arm without touching the electrode. A little pressure, and it opened it up to .035. I think I may time-sert both of the heads while shes apart...........maybe a port job on the heads too!............which would lead to a remap............which leads to BIG smiles.......... Pogue, I cant believe she did this to me. All I wanted to do is ride her hard........ She probably wants me to shine her up for homecoming. So, full detail is on the list too! She must be mad at me or something.  | ||
| Iman501 |
she's back to running! new plugs fixed it great! thanks guys! |
