| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
How much draw can the stock headlight wiring on an 03 9R take? Here's what I'm thinking... I've kind of given up on the proper BiXenon conversion and now I'm thinking of something a little different. I'm thinking of putting 4 lights in the front, 2 low beam and 2 high beam using the DOT/SAE Hella 60mm modules: http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?Categ oryID=570 If I don't think I can fit them I may go to two of the 60mm (or two of the 90mm) and two of the 50mm modules. The price of HID lamps just seems way too high to justify the coolness of the BiXenon. Obviously I'd have to construct my own mounting bracket and adjusters. And I'd keep it so that all 4 lights are on when I have the high beams engaged. Assume 55 watts per fixture (or 4.6 amps each). If the stock wiring is no good, can the connections at the fuse block and relay block be changed so that I can add heavier wiring? I'm assuming some kind of spade connector in the relay block and those normally come out, but not sure about the fuses. This of course brings the question... How many amps (or watts) can the alternator produce? | ||
| Midknyte |
It can just pretty much handle the stock setup. If you're going to be adding any lights, you are best off using the line as a trigger for a relay'ed aux harness. Been there, melted that... | ||
| Fahren |
Switch to LED's for indicators and brake/running light (to reduce load), then add another direct power line w/ inline 10A fuse direct from battery to help run your Christmas tree light setup :-) | ||
| Greg_e |
That's a good point, each of those other lights is about 25 watts each. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Copied from a thread in the Uly section on this same subject: It's no problem adding Aux. lights to the bike, but it would be a BAD idea to run them through the factory lighting circuit like you're suggesting. The circuit is NOT made for it! Add a relay and be done with it. Here, I'll help you out with the low beam: Relay Terminal 85 - splice into factory euro marker light wire (or tail light wire, or license plate light wire, or any other wire that has switched power when the key is on ON). Remember, unless you did the mod, the low beam turns off when you hit the high beam switch, so splicing it into the low beam may not be what you want to do. Relay Terminal 86 - run to ground Relay Terminal 30 - run to your battery positive through a 15 amp inline fuse Relay Terminal 87 - run to the positive lines of your low beam lights Ground the negative lines of your lights. Do a second relay connecting terminal 85 to the high beam wire and 87 to the high beam lights. I looked at replacing the factory headlights with two PIAA (or similar) lights of the same size, but decided it wasn't worth it. If I could go all out like the deathray setup, I would in a heartbeat. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
That's a good point, each of those other lights is about 25 watts each. The OEM signals on XB's are only 10 watts each, and they're not on steady, so it's not like they are eating away at your total available power 99.9% of the time. And if you do switch to LED, make sure you switch to an LED flasher, the other method of adding resistors will make the circuit use the same amount of power if not more than if you just left the stock bulbs in there. And the 1157 tail/brake light bulb is only 25 watt on brake light mode, on normal tail light mode (99% of your riding time) it's only about half that. | ||
| Nillaice |
i wired in some auxillary lights from wally world (H3 bulbs, 55W) and blew the the fuse. direct- hot from battery with a relay worked, until i fried the voltage regulator (may not be directly related) i am now going the HID route. ALOT cheaper than i origionally thouhgt it would be!!! 30 plus shipping for the kit (2 bulbs and ballasts) from DDM tuning. that's cheaper than some silverstar ultra's. | ||
| Greg_e |
Yeah that's cheaper, but you'll be blinding everyone since the projectors are not really designed for that style lamp. I know, most people don't care but I do. And even with the turn signals only on part time you do still need to be aware of the total draw so that maximum is not exceeded. Another thing that put me off HID is the very high amp draw for the very short time that the lamp is starting to fire. Not sure how much of that is from build up in capacitors or direct from the system power. One place quoted like 200 amps surge, I assume that the real electrical system is probably seeing a 10 amp surge for each light over a few seconds while it juices up the caps. That's a lot to put the battery through. |
