| Author | Message | ||
     Boney95 |
What would be some visual signs or anything else that would indicate a bad steering head bearing. Ive got the front end off, and I just want to comfirm. It looks good, moves easy, it does move up and down a bit. Thanks! | ||
| Paul_in_japan |
I had mine replaced recently. I had the front wheel off to change the tires. I noticed 2 distinct notches at 10 and 2 when you turned the bars from left to right. 1000miles later it was getting tight to move and locking up at points so i had them replaced. Turns out one of them had seized. Sounds like yours are ok. | ||
| Roysbuell |
Although I have never seen a wheel bearing I have replaced bearings here at work and a good bearing should spin fairly easy but should have no other play in it. | ||
| Boney95 |
No other play in it hey. Yeah both bearings move up and down (vertically), about an 1/8 inch or so. The bearing itself is pressed in nice and tight, but when you stick your finger inside of the bearing (where the stem goes through) and pull up, they'll move. The blue casing actually moves with the metal ring/bearing. I'm bad at describing things. | ||
| Greg_e |
Check the torque on the nut that holds the steering stem. | ||
| Boney95 |
The torque was good, 42 or 44 lbs I think. I just got off the phone with the dealership, they're supposed to move up and down about an 1/16". I should be good. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
You get a clanky and a short hop step that feels like somebody broom swept ya. If you ride on dirt, change em every 9 K DAMHIK If you only ride on the street?.... good, I didnt need the traffic. | ||
| Sam_07 |
If you have the front end off, the major work is done! the bearings are around 60 bucks. Cheap insurance if you ask me. Ive had steering bearings cause a dead spot when turning. Almost as the front end is locked for a split second. | ||
| Fahren |
The ball races are designed to rotate full around, like a wheel bearing, yet in the steering head, they only can travel in the limited arc of the left/right turning limits, which will eventually wear a groove unevenly, become loose, and not roll evenly. As Sam said, you are already there - best insurance is to replace. | ||
| Sloppy |
These bearings typically fail due to lack of lubrication. So if there is plenty of grease in them and they turn without any hard spots you are good. Clean the bearings with solvent, dry completely then slather every nook and cranny with grease. Never "fast spin" a bearing with compressed air. Bad bearings will show up as washed out / rusted bearing, notchy or grity fealing when they turn, run your finger nail on the race and feel for a notch. If bad then you have to replace BOTH the bearing and race. I highly recommend using marine grease for steering heads as they handle water much better than standard grease and is extremely tacky. Test for yourself and see the difference. | ||
| Boney95 |
Well I figure the bearings should be good since the bike only has 6K on the clock. Good info though, thanks yall. | ||
| Sloppy |
Ah, so you haven't REMOVED the steering stem. I'd HIGHLY advise that you do this. Odds are that it's okay, but you can spend an additional hour to remove the steering stem and grease the bearings, or you can ignore it and run into a problem later to have to spend 4 hours and get all the tooling to remove the race... My steering bearing went out in 10k miles since I'm an all weather rider - the bearing went out at the end of Spring, after riding in the rain which washed the grease from the bottom bearing... Do it now when it's simple and just maintenance, rather than doing it later and having to perform a repair... | ||
| Boney95 |
No, Ive removed the stem. Both trees and forks are actually off the bike for powder coating. I'll grease them up real good as you said. Where can I get that Marine grease, without having to go to a marine shop? | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Adam, any good synthetic grease will work well. | ||
| Husky |
Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease. Just about any Auto parts store. Husky | ||
| Boney95 |
Cool, thanks guys! | ||
| Sloppy |
Lots of places sell marine grease; NAPA, WalMart, etc. Note that it is NOT the same as Synthetic grease (but you can probably buy synthetic Marine grease). Since the steering bearings are not under any extreme temperatures, synthetic is likely overkill, but to each their own. Important thing is they get well greased! | ||
| Buellblastrider |
i thought steering head bearing was sealed on these like the wheel bearings. i know how to tell when they are bad as well as the factory recomended fish scale test | ||
| Fahren |
Buellblastrider's correct. From the svc. manual: NOTE Discard steering head bearings and replace with new. Steering head bearings are not reusable. | ||
| Buellblastrider |
thank you. Fahren. i was glad to discover this thread in case i was incorrect but hope this helps someone | ||
| Fahren |
I've also read other badweb posts on wheel bearings, and how guys re-packed them. It's just not worth it - they are not meant to be re-used, so you are risking a failure in doing so. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
The book say a lot of things  I'd trust an experienced tech over the book. Adam, I'll ask Bilansky what you should do this weekend, Monday at the latest. I need to pick up a crank to lighten for him anyhow... | ||
| Boney95 |
Right on Steve, you da man. Fahren, so are you saying that if one removes the stem, both bearings should be replaced? No matter if the bearings are still good. That doesn't make sense. Or am I missing something? | ||
| Buellblastrider |
no i dont believe thats the case. the sevice manual is just saying to replace them if they are bad amd they are not servicable. ive never taken my front end off but i assume that the bottom bearing does not come out on the bottom tree like the non sealed bearings. it was my understanding they are contained in the neck of the frame. unless you had to remove them or they feel bad i dont see a need to replace them. | ||
| Buellblastrider |
steve mackey i understand what your saying. im atech but unfortunately ive never worked in a buell dealer although i am a certified buell tech. but when it comes to a buell manual i trust it.my lightening has 30000 miles on it i didnt change the belt at 25000 miles so now its missing about 12 teeth. for the little work and money it takes to change the bearings altogethor. greasing sealed bearings just sounds half ass to me. id have to look in the parts book but based on my experience with sealed wheel bearings they dont have races they are self contained in the cages and use the wheel (for example please correct me if im wrong) as the race | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
use the wheel (for example please correct me if im wrong) as the race Totally wrong | ||
| Fahren |
That's right, it's wrong... but he is right about sealed bearings. They are not expensive - just replace them if they are bad. And they will no doubt go bad before your bike sees the end of its life - especially if you ride in the rain much. And no, if they are not moving, and roll smoothly with no notchiness, then you shouldn't have to replace them now. Just suggested it as insurance, while you are in there :-) | ||
| Buellblastrider |
so the steering head bearings have races? | ||
| Fahren |
Yep. |
