| Author | Message | ||
     Toast |
Time to fill up the oil on my 07 XB9R - Been thinking of switching to a synthetic... I did some research and searched these forums... not sure what I should be using. Any tips? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Oh Crap...  | ||
| Toast |
Lol what did I do? | ||
| 4cammer |
The subject has been beat to death on this board and most likely any bike board. Use the search function here and you will find enough threads to last until the Packers game tomorrow. I also have a '07 XB9R and have used a few different oils, syn and non-synthetic and have really seen little if any difference. I change my oil at 2500 miles (may be overkill to some) so I really don't think it matters what I use as long as it is a good quality MOTORCYCLE 20/50 oil. My bike will never see Syn3 however... | ||
| Toast |
Thanks cam. Appreciate the info and I didn't mean to continue the beating of the topic. The search results were pulling up posts from a few years ago, wasn't sure if anything changed. I'll keep searching. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I'll throw my two cents in...I use Mobil 1 V-twin oil....  | ||
| Hughlysses |
+1 on Mobil 1 V-twin 20W-50.  | ||
| Brumbear |
OK I'LL do it cause I been drinkin Don't put mobil 1 in the primary HA!!!!!!!!!! I said it | ||
| Skinstains |
As long as it's slippery oil you should be OK. I use Amsoil in my engines and primary's for what that's worth. | ||
| Toast |
Thanks guys, really appreciate it. The mobile 1 or the Amsoil, do they specifically say "MOTORCYCLE OIL" on the container? | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Amsoil MCV 20W-50 100% Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for engine and primary, change every 5,000 miles or at least once a year. API Service SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API-GL1. Exceeds every requirement for both engine and primary use as specified for your XB. Contains no friction modifiers (wet clutch compatible). $10.70 a quart. Your bike will thank you. | ||
| Boney95 |
KISS....Syn3 | ||
| Skinstains |
Yeah, what RBJ said... | ||
| Gaza |
Amsoil, a Fav here in the north.  (Message edited by gaza on November 07, 2009) | ||
| Metalstorm |
I use the way over priced Syn3. It costs more than it should considering it's not a 'true' full synthetic but I have a good reason. I'm lucky enough to have a dealership that gets Buell. Today they assured me that they'll get me whatever Buell parts I need so long as HD is still making them. So I buy Syn3 and all the other maintanence stuff (gaskets etc..) from them to give them support for supporting Buell. | ||
| Froggy |
Metal, see if they sell Amsoil, some dealers stock it because of how popular it is. | ||
| Ds_tiger |
it is 2009 why do threads like this still exist???  | ||
| Toast |
Because people like me start them  | ||
| Ds_tiger |
please make it STOP! .....  | ||
| Toast |
haha - I'm sorry!  | ||
| Newxb12ss |
Oil, oil, oil. Crummy oil and actual oil related failures went out with the green-slime of the 1960's. The worst SAE/API oil today is pretty darned good stuff by comparison, if you use an appropriate grade with regular changes. But......what does your manual call for? I think many of us would like a permanent ban on ALL oil threads on ALL forums. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Oil threads are too slippery. You'd never be able to stop them all  | ||
| 46champ |
The proper answer to this question is: Any suitable oil will work just change it often no more than 5000 miles or seasonal you know don't let it sit thru the winter with old oil in it. More important change the filter every oil change. Every thing else is just semantics. | ||
| Toast |
I went ahead and picked up some of the mobile 1 vtwin to hold me over until i order some Amsoil. I changed the oil today... I'm at about 3,000 miles... HD said they changed my oil at the 1,000 mile checkup.My intentions today were just to top off the oil (it looked a little low) I opened it up and took a good look in the light and decided to drain a little bit just to see how clean it was, i figured it couldn't be too bad if they changed it 2,000 miles ago. As you could imagine, it was the dirtiest oil i have ever seen in my life. Which leads me to my conclusion: They didn't change the oil like they said they did. This is the second problem I've had since the their "extensive" check-up. I'm totally convinced at this point that they wheeled the bike in the back, let it sit for a few hours and told me to come back and pick it up, without even touching it. I bought the bike from HD and the 1000 mile service was included in the purchase - my dilemma - i dont think it was ever serviced. I'm pretty upset about this - what do you guys think? | ||
| Bromanowski |
I don't have much experience with these engines yet (air cooled harleys) but I've been working on older air cooled porsches for a while now and they break down oil pretty quick. Just cause the oil looked dirty at "2000" miles doesn't mean they didn't change it. They easiest way to tell would have been to take a look at the oil filter when you picked it up. If it was nice and new they definitely did the work. Oh and +1 to amsoil but I'm sure Mobil 1 is good stuff. I've used their 0 weight in my race cars for a while. And yes motorcycle oil is specific. Don't use regular cage oil in your bike. | ||
| 20buellteam |
Run Amsoil MCV 20W-50 100% Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. I switched to this because others on this site said your cooling fan will run less... ah lower friction less heat! Guess what, I think my fan has ran less ever since. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Valvoline VR1 in the engine Formula+ in the tranny The VR1 has a CD rating instead of the service manual recommended ratings of CF, CG, CH, or CI - the difference being the year that the ratings were obtained. The CD rating is from 1959 and as a result, does not have to meet modern EPA requirements. That means higher levels of zinc which is great at protecting basically everything in the valvetrain. NOTE: Valvoline specifically advertises that VR1 IS NOT recommended for use in wet clutches. | ||
| Piotr12 |
+1 on Amsoil. I run it in the engine and tranny. Works great. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Be confused and concerned if the oil DOES NOT look dirty and dark when you drain it. It is the detergents at work...the crud is in solution and/or suspension so it does not stick to the inside of the engine (sludge)... | ||
| Toast |
I guess it was just much more grime than I was expecting. Anyway, thanks for all the tips on the oil. Amsoil seems to be popular so I'll definitely be grabbing some |
