| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Trying to install my Lyndall Gold Pads. I have the 8 piston caliper (ZTL2) but the manual doesnt seem to have (or I didnt find it) instructions for this one. Per the 6 piston instructions I have removed the lower mounting bolt, loosened the upper and removed the (started with the top) pin holding the pads in. I was able to remove the outside pad, but how do I get the inside pad out? Also I made an idiot move and squeezed the lever (you know I am a moron because I was surprised that it didnt have any resistance, doh!) and the pistons for the outside pad I removed moved in a little. Whats a safe way to pry them back open to install the new pad? Also just to be sure (manual doesnt say...) when I install the Gold pads, do I put them in as is or put the metal "shim" type piece on the outside of the OEM pads? Thanks guys... Off to work! Ill be home at 5:30 for the 30 min dinner break to try and finish the job... | ||
| Juniorkirk |
Easiest way i have found to change the brake pads is to take the front wheel off completely. If you go that route, take the pads off and squeeze the brake lever a little to get the pistons out just a little. When they are sticking out a little farther, take a shoe string and put some brake cleaner on it and 'floss' your pistons to get any residue off them before you push them back into the caliper. after you get them nice and clean put the 'shim' on the back of the new pads and put them back in there. Take the brake fluid reservoir lid off so you can push the pads out enough to get the brake rotor back in between them. Put the front wheel back on and put the cap back on and pump the brakes until they bite and you should be good to go. | ||
| Jraice |
Badweb has never failed me until now :P. Come on guys, nobody knows how to do it without removing the wheel? I just removed the wheel the other day when I did my tire change... its a pain... I'd really rather not and now I feel like an idiot for not doing the pads at the same time. | ||
| Jlnance |
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| Oxygen151 |
I just did mine about a month ago. Make sure the caliper is inbetween the spokes. Its kind of tricky to pull the pads out on the inside so I used one find and a screw driver, finger on top, screw driver on the bottom and lightly pulled outward until there was enough for me to fully grab. To push the pistons back in, use a long flat head screw driver or a paint scraper. Either will put the back in with a little pressure. I used my finger as a leverage point to push them back in so the screw driver would not touch any paint. Put the little metal clips that are on the backs of the stock pad onto your new pads. If you look closely you will see that there are small recesses for the shim to clip on over the back. | ||
| Xb9er |
Just take the whole thing off. The easiest whey to get the pistons back in use a small "C" clamp | ||
| Jraice |
Whole thing? I'd gladly take the whole caliper off if I could. Requires wheel removal. Judging by your SN I am guessing you dont have the 8 piston unit I am discussing. And those are the same directions I have, except they are for the 6 piston unit. I have a service manual. I guess Ill just try and work the piston on the inside in a bit more and see if that gives me the room to work it out. | ||
| Jraice |
Okay guys I was able to get all four of the upper pistons FULLY recessed. Gives more room to move the inside pad but there is still no way I am getting this thing out unless I am trying the wrong technique. I can now spin it almost totally around (cant do a 180, can do like 120 degrees in each direction) but in no orientation can I get it to come out. To be clear, it should come out on the right side of the wheel right? There is just no way I can see it fitting, its not ALMOST there its quite a good bit to large it seems. This is a pain. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
how is front wheel removal hard? jack front end up, loosen pinch bolts, take axle out, and drop wheel......takes me about 3 minutes. | ||
| Oxygen151 |
I have the 8 piston caliper. The pad can be slipped out any which side you can get it, it doesnt matter. If its causing you this much trouble I guess I would also recommend just removing the front wheel. Its not necessary but it will make the job alot easier. If you dont have a front stand (which I dont) I understand why you wouldnt want to do this. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Yeah, seems like you could have saved a ton of trouble by just removing the front wheel in the first place...pretty easy task. On another note, my '03 took me about 9 minutes to change pads and did not require wheel removal. So did my '99 X1. Go figure...3 cheers for progress! | ||
| Jraice |
From what it sounds like the 6 pistons are pretty easy and the 8's arent much worse Im just a little slow :P. Man I should've just changed the pads last week when I did my tire change (was in a hurry, wanted to try out the new tires... doh). Here is a picture of where I am now. As you can see the inside pads can be flipped all over the place but the caliper wont move out of the way far enough to allow them to slip out in ANY direction or orientation.  | ||
| Jraice |
And juniorkirk... its not that hard I did it last week but it is a bit of a pain, and if I can remove the brake pads without using a jack stand (like I did last week for tire changes) it would save some risk as its not SUPER stable. But I guess thats what it must come down to. (Message edited by jraice on September 22, 2009) | ||
| Oxygen151 |
If you can slide either of the two pads up or down enough to be able to fully push the pistons back in on the inside, and then you may have enough room for the pad to angle out, if that makes any sense. I am at school right now, and even the simplest of tasks like removing a front wheel can become a pain when the proper equipment is back at home so I get why you wouldnt want to take the front wheel off. | ||
| Jraice |
I was able to fully push the pistons inside. Still wont come out. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Jordan,are you lining up the slots on the inside of caliper W/the 2 spokes on wheels? | ||
| Jraice |
Dano... your the second person to mention the word slots and I still have no idea what that means so maybe I am missing something? The attached picture is exactly the position I have been trying to get the pads out in... Clearly not working. | ||
| Jraice |
I give up... Seriously you guys must have a different bike then me... I have put about 1.5 hours combined effort into doing NOTHING but sitting there playing with the wheel and pad position and they wont come out. 18 pack of beer on me to anybody who comes over here in the next 4 hours and gets the pads out themselves. Otherwise I am going to take the wheel off after it gets a bit cooler outside... Then do my oil change. Then ride! | ||
| Jaimec |
That scanned page above is very useful for the ZTL front brake, however it doesn't at all help the fellow who posted his plea, as his bike has a ZTL2 front brake... | ||
| Jraice |
Exactly Jaimec... Plus I have that page in front of me but my manual doesnt think its necessary to have instructions for pad removal for the ZTL2's... Anyways I ended up removing the wheel, after some drama (bit of spilled brake fluid) I was able to get everything back in place and torqued. Going for a short spin to run an errand now and to see how the pads feel, after I get back (bike warm) Ill be changing the oil to synthetic and possibly checking primary chain tension. Then I am calling it track ready after a shake down ride in the mountains tomorrow night! | ||
| Juniorkirk |
Since you already did it, just to let you in on what i do when i have to remove the front wheel. I have to take it off here on base and they dont have a good way to jack the front end of the bike up. But it can be done and keep it REALLY stable with what they have at the auto skill center here. All you need is a floor jack, 2 jack stands and a few shop rags. If the jack doesn't have a rubber piece on it, put a few rags on that and jack the bike up more towards the front of the bike to lift just the front up. As for the jack stands, fold up a shop rag and put it on top of each and slide them under each side of the swing arm. That will hold it pretty rock solid. | ||
| Smoke |
he was doing the front, but should work the same way under the forks. the easy way is a cheap set of stands that disassemble for storage. lockhart philips and harbor freight both have some. tim | ||
| Jaimec |
Now for the BAD news: The Lyndall pads are really a much better STREET pad than a TRACK pad... For track use, you would've been better off with the EBCs... | ||
| Andymnelson |
 So you finally followed the advice that we all gave you and pulled the front wheel and it worked?  Glad you're out riding again. How do you like your Lyndahls so far? | ||
| Dano_12s |
Jordan,sounds like you won the battle,but the next time if you look at the inside part of the caliper casting you will see 2 slots[grooves],line those groves up with 2 spokes on wheels by rotating wheels.Compressing pistons makes just enough room for removal.I put masking tape on wheels to help prevent scraps. | ||
| Jraice |
Ass for the "BAD" news I am doing two track days but I am a street rider so who cares these pads are still fine for me  . I really like them. At first they felt strange. I am not sure if I got used to them or they were bedding in, or both, but after 20 miles of cruising around town I really liked them. Very different feel, but I like it. Much more progressive. | ||
| Jaimec |
I haven't tried 'em yet on my 1125R, but they worked WONDERFULLY on my XB12Ss with the older ZTL brake. Got rid of the annoying deposit build-up from the OEM pads that had me thinking I had a warped rotor. |
