| Author | Message | ||
     Evil_mechanic |
I know how to adjust the primary chain, and what the specs should be... between 3/8 and 1/2. Im just wondering what method you guys are using to measure that slack? Are you eyeballing it, or is there a better method like how much chain is showing when pushing on the slack? The chain disappears behind the primary cover when i push on it to check slack. seems like its a mm or 2 over 1/2 so i think it needs a bit of adjustment. Thanks in advance | ||
| Froggy |
I just use a screwdriver and eyeball it. Close enough for government work.  I don't know of any way to measure it, I can't get a ruler in there without removing the primary cover, so eyeballing it is till I learn a better way. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
On my '04 12R I had a really bad clacking sound. It was the primary chain slapping against the primary cover. When I took the inspection cover off, I could push the chain all the way up out of sight. That was way too loose. I just eyeballed it cold and tightened it up a litte. No more slap and less vibrations. Do not overtighten. | ||
| Teeps |
Adjusting the primary chain when the engine is at operating temperature, to me, is the better option. (how long does it run cold anyway?) The correct adjustment is achieved, when the chain, at the tightest section, (just) disappears above the inspection window. The hardest part of the whole operation is rotating the darn engine to find the "tightest" section. | ||
| Pdccd |
Any suggestions for the engine rotation? That's a bear... | ||
| Blake |
You're much better off to leave the chain a little lose. I leave mine at 3/4" free play cold. As the engine and tranny heat up the chain will tighten on account of aluminum (engine cases and transmission cases) expands twice as much with temperature as steel (chain). If you are just over 1/2", then leave it alone. Turning the engine... Ignition off, kill switch in off position! Fifth gear, big/long socket wrench on final drive output shaft nut, turn clockwise. (Message edited by blake on September 12, 2009) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Pull spark plugs when you're rotating the engine. No compression = MUCH easier rotation Just be careful when reinstalling - don't strip the threads. | ||
| Midknyte |
Adjustment is very easy. The play in the chain should be about as much as its' own thickness when the engine is warmed up. | ||
| Pdccd |
Thanks guys. Great tips! | ||
| Xxxh00liganxxx |
the diameter of the chain is 3/8.....make a mark on the inspection window....with a sharpie or a scribe your choice.....mark where the top of the chain is push the chain up and the bottom of the chain should be on the mark :-) | ||
| Metalstorm |
If the engine is hot and I mean Hot, I'll use a 3/8 drive extension as a measuring sick. I line up the middle of extension with the middle of the chain and adjust the tightest part of the chain so that the the middle of said chain extends just above and just below the end of the extension which is slightly over 3/8ths travel when fully hot. | ||
| Hogs |
You guys keep talking about 3/8s well IF the chain in the inspection hole is say Moved up a tad in between where it rests in the slack... IT should have 3/8 from this line both up and down from the center line.. MAn don`t have to be a Rocket science to do this... See the Manual its all there or someone scan that page and post it...! | ||
| Moosestang |
The manual recommends the combined up and down movement will equal 3/8-1/2 inch cold. The diagram is very clear. You can measure that movement from the center of the chain, the bottom of the chain or the top of the chain, but not the bottom and top of the chain. If you mark the top of the chain pushing up and the bottom of the chain pushing down, then you have added the width of the chain into the slack measurement, that's not right. | ||
| U4euh |
What's wrong with just bumping the starter switch to get the motor to rotate? I mean if it actually fires over, hit the kill switch and go about checking! | ||
| Iamarchangel |
You haven't tried this using the starter switch, have you? Not based on this bike but on others: the movement is too big and you can't track where you were. You end up having to do the (plug out), fifth gear, big wrench thing anyway to find the right spot. | ||
| Hughlysses |
+1 to Moosetang's post above. The diagram in the manual is clear, but it can be a little hard to get your head around this sometimes. Once you figure it out, it's simple. | ||
| Evil_mechanic |
I tried using the "Bump the starter" method the other day and as stated above you cant tell how far its gone. tried marking a link with marker, but the oil makes it come right off. btw all i did was disconnect the fuel pump harness to make sure it wouldnt start. | ||
| Blake |
Manual's required value is too tight to be safe in my view. A too tight chain can cause major problems. Better it be a little loose. I'd never purposely adjust to 3/8" for a cold engine. Like I said, 5/8" to 3/4" works well. |
