| Author | Message | ||
     Chase12s |
The guy at O'rielly's sold me some 10w-40 and 20w-50 instead of all 20w-50. Of course i didn't realize this until I had already poured it into my engine. Will it harm my engine? | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
FWIK, no it wont harm it. oil is oil is oil, synthetics are made of the same stuff chemically, just with different ratios to obtain their weight | ||
| Mnbueller |
No harm at all. As long as it is the same brand. I do not know for a fact, but have heard that when switching brands of oil, especially synthetics and blends, you need to be carefull because of the different deturgents different Company's use could react with eachother and break down the oil prematurly, and possibly cause engine damage.... So you really have 15w-45 in your engine now.  | ||
| Chase12s |
oh ok. yea I went from amsoil to royal purple this time. | ||
| Ulynut |
I would change it. The engineers that built the motor say 20w-50 for a reason. I figure those guys know more about this than I do. So I listen to them. But thats just me. Three quarts of oil and a filter are cheap enough. You can save the other oil for your lawn mower. | ||
| Hammer71 |
You will have no issues. I run 10-40 in mine during the winter and have never had an issue. | ||
| Brumbear |
OOHHH dude you are so pharcked you shouldn't ever ever open beer bottles with your sphinchter But the oil will be fine | ||
| Nik |
I would change it. The engineers that built the motor say 20w-50 for a reason. I figure those guys know more about this than I do. So I listen to them. But thats just me. 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40 are all listed as acceptable oils in the owners manual... | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
...oil is oil is oil, synthetics are made of the same stuff chemically, just with different ratios to obtain their weight There is nothing correct in this statement. 100% synthetics are chemically engineered from man-made, synthetic materials. Mineral oils are made from crude oil. There is a measurable difference. Although there most likely will not be any damage done to your engine, it will be dealing with a mix of oils with different viscosities, shear stability, thermal properties, and detergent/dispersant additive packages. In short, you will have less performance than running either pure 10W-40 or 20W-50 oil, either of which are fine in your bike when run individually. For the small cost involved, especially considering the piece of mind it would bring, I would not hesitate to drain the incorrect oil and replace it with the correct weight. It's easy, and makes life a lot simpler- especially if something did go wrong (warranty issue?). This can be used as a reminder to read the label of every fluid before you pour it into any vehicle. You have gotten off easy with this one. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
im with Mnbueller, you've got yourself some 15w-45 (Message edited by ochoa0042 on August 23, 2009) | ||
| Glitch |
JIMMY! | ||
| Roysbuell |
whaaa-pow...Think with your dipstick! | ||
| Chase12s |
I'm not wasting that expensive oil. So I'm gonna stick with it and see what happens. The general consensus is that it will be perfectly fine. My dad is a veteran mechanic and he said it should be fine. | ||
| Nik |
There is nothing correct in this statement. 100% synthetics are chemically engineered from man-made, synthetic materials. Mineral oils are made from crude oil. There is a measurable difference. And most 'synthetic' oils are just cracked mineral oil. True synthetics are few and far between. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
And most 'synthetic' oils are just cracked mineral oil. True synthetics are few and far between. Since 1999, when Mobil lost it's lawsuit against Castrol, in America it is legal to label an oil "Fully Synthetic" even if it contains up to 20% mineral oil. There are 100% non-petroleum pure synthetic oils available, but you have to make sure the oil you choose is not hiding behind the labeling "grey area" in order to fool you. If, like Amsoil, an oil consists of Group IV or V PAO and Ester base stocks with pure synthetic additive packages, then it truly is a 100% non-petroleum synthetic oil. If your oil contains any Group III (hydro-cracked mineral oil) base stock or petroleum based additive packages, then it is a semi-synthetic- even though it can legally be labeled "Full Synthetic". Do your research and get your money's worth- it does make a difference. |
