| Author | Message | ||
     Rpm4x4 |
If you have replaced your clutch please state at what mileage and why. (as in what happened) Also, has anybody done it? Is it hard to swap and do you need special tools? The reason I ask is my point of engagement has been steadily moving lately. Im not sure if the clutch is going or if a cable is failing. My engagement point has moved closer to the bar and after engagement it now has play. A new cable is only $35 so I might just throw one at it to see what happens. However I still would like to know the above questions as well even if it turns out to be a cable. | ||
| Delta_one |
adjust your clutch and cable first. it only takes a few minutes and may save you some $$ I have an 03 with 10k still stock cable and clutch. if my manual applies to your bike too as far as the adjustment I can walk you through it. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I did mine in April. I was worried that it was going to be a problem. It's REALLY easy. Get the manual. You WILL need a clutch puller. The tricky part was removing and installing the snap ring that holds the clutch pack in. After changing the clutch, it's part of what helped convince me that I wanted another XB. It's just so simple to work on. | ||
| Froggy |
Check the lip on your primary cover, it could of cracked and is not allowing the clutch ramp to fully rotate. Anyway 41k on my used and abused clutch so far. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I know how to adjust it, Im just worried about it failing far from home. I have almost 22K on my bike and im planning a few long rides in the not so far future. I am going to adjust it tommorow at work for now but this something new that popped up just recently. Id guess 1000 miles ago it was engaging at the end. Something had to happen to make that much change. A cable shouldnt stretch 1/2 inch over 1000 miles. That is not normal. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Froggy, is this lip you speak of inside the case? Do I need to remove the whole cover to check? FT Bstrd Would I need to buy a clutch puller at the dealer? Is it just a pulley removing tool like this?  Rumor has it, Im getting a manual for my birthday.  I dont want to ruin a thoughtful suprise by getting one early. My birthday is only a couple weeks away. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
If you decide to replace it, I have the puller and would be happy to lend it to you. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
If you decide to replace it, I have the puller and would be happy to lend it to you. Thanks, hopefully thats not whats up. Did you replace it on the uly? Was that from lugging it on the trail or street running? | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Is this the right type of clutch tool? Its $59.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
That's the tool I have. I don't know what killed the clutch. Only the last two or three plates were worn. The rest looked new. It was weird. I used an Energy One clutch and was pleased with the feel. It came with a heavier clutch plate and hooked up really well. Energy One | ||
| Delta_one |
right you are, sorry I didn't realize it was that drastic that fast. | ||
| Ourdee |
I stole this picture from this thread ( http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/434501.html )  | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
and get yourself a 6**mm wrench for the adjustment screw. when putting on the clutch tool to compress the diaphram, you will need the 8mm to hold that screw from turning.. If you dont you will strip it (trying to hold it with other things like vice grips or pliers) and have problems sooner or later DAMHIK (Message edited by ochoa0042 on August 20, 2009) (Message edited by ochoa0042 on August 31, 2009) | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Thanks for the tip Ochoa0042. I have several variations of 8mm wrenchs. I am a mech by trade, Im just newer to motorcycle repair. I have found its really quite different that autos. | ||
| Odie |
Look here also- http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/488963.html?1250793756 | ||
| Boliver |
I just replaced my cable yesterday(20,100 miles)and adjusted my clutch.The operation of gear change is easier and smoother.I did not realize how stretched my cable was.I simply noticed the cable was frayed at the handle so I replaced it.When you do this the clutch has to be readjusted on install.You must thread the cable into the primary completely FIRST.It was not easy getting it started.You Must be patient and easy with it.At 20,000 miles your clutch plates shouldn't be worn out unless you are a very aggressive rider.I'd try the cable first.Just my 2 cents.Ride safe.Peace and grease.. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Like FB....I put an Energy One kit in mine..it works great...great company, great service... | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Well I adjusted the cable today. It wasnt as for off as I had thought. I dont know that I got a full turn out if the adjustment. Im going to keep a close eye on it though and see if it moves further. I suspect the cable might just be stretching. Im going to buy one and just throw it in the garage so I have one handy. If I see it move any more Ill replace it and then continue to watch. Sorry for the false alarm but I still learned some good info for the future. Thanks | ||
| Delta_one |
if it is stretching as much as you think there is a good chance that it is starting to fray and break. | ||
| Odie |
I HIGHLY recommend you take 5 minutes to look inside your clutch inspection cover. The cable isn't going to stretch that much. My first one frayed at the lever and was an easy fix. This time it was a little more involved. Good luck! | ||
| Rays |
Just a cautionary note on checking for fraying. I recently had my Uly pop the clutch cable on the way home from work in evening traffic.  I am very careful with lubricating the lever -end nipple (clean and grease every oil change) and had only inspected this and cleaned / greased about 2000km earlier. In my case most of the strands broke inside the nipple - I had looked quickly at the cable visible outside the nipple and had just glanced looking for any obvious broken wire strands. I don't know if I would have spotted anything had I looked really closely at the spot where the cable enters the nipple but I will certainly do that in future. My cable developed sudden additional slackness on the morning before it broke so as described by Mr Pirsig - it was talking to me but I wasn't listening. This cable did faithful service for 53,000 miles so I'm not complaining - I just wish I had taken notice of the warning signs.  Oh, in answer to your question - it is straight-forward to replace as long as you are very careful. There are a couple of posts in the Knowledge Vault in relation to this and I strongly recommend you follow the instructions of Al Lighton. The threaded portion that connects into the primary is very easily broken but follow his wise words and you will be fine. (Message edited by Rays on August 21, 2009) | ||
| Mndwgz |
I replaced my cable yesterday. Easy to do and it took 1 beer amount of time. Popped the end off at the lever after 5000 miles. a little soon in my opinion. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I HIGHLY recommend you take 5 minutes to look inside your clutch inspection cover. Thats good advise. Its worth a peek. Ill do it tomorrow. Would the clutch material contaminate the oil? I changed the primary recently and it was so clean it looked like new oil. |
