| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Almost done with the service! Just need to clean out the oil cooler fins, check my head bearing resistance (going to need to pick some stuff up for that, might take a little longer) and grease my kick stand  . Oh wait, that primary chain. So I popped open the hole tonight expecting an easy check and possible need for adjustment but it was not so easy. The chain in its lower position (pushed down) is almost centered in the viewing hole but pushed up (its fairly loose) it's lower edge is just above the lower edge of the viewing hole, making it rather hard to measure the free play (which clearly seems to be over 1/2" anyways). Any tips? Also, how do I rotate the engine to check tension at different points? This isnt my old 50cc two stroke... I cant just spin the rear tire in gear and make those big pistons move. | ||
| Jramsey |
Remove spark plugs, put in 5th gear and push if you don't have a stand. | ||
| Xbgeorge |
I prefer to do the adjustment after the engine is hot. The cases are aluminum and the chain is steel. The aluminum expands more than the chain, when hot. The first time I did mine, it was cold. I followed the book, step by step and adjusted it to spec. I then took it for a test ride around the block a few times. It shifted nicely at first. Then about 10 minutes into the ride, it started to get a low whine, and it got harder to downshift. Neutral was hard to find. I went back to the house, opened up the hole and found the chain TIGHT. I adjusted it right then, while hot, and haven't had a problem since. Loose is better than too tight. (Message edited by XBGeorge on July 28, 2009) | ||
| Midknyte |
For quick reference/checking - When the engine is warmed up, the slack on the primary chain should be about the same as its' own thickness. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Moving the inspection hole up, That is one improvement that would have been nice. | ||
| Oxygen151 |
I have the same issue at times. Its annoying, I found a small clear ruler that has been helpful in getting the adjustment close enough. I have heard of people starting their bikes, letting it get warm and then tightening the chain until you hear a slight "whine" and then back it off until the whine goes away. If you hear your chain slapping its too loose, too tight and it whines. Like everyone else already said, loose is definitely better than too tight in this scenario. | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks guys... Probably going to put off this adjustment until I can finish the service (clean oil cooler fins and check steering head resistance)... Need to get a new gasket for the primary (will also get one for tranny and check fluid level while I am at it) as well as a jack (to get the front wheel up for the resistance check, any recommendations?) and a spring scale. | ||
| Metalstorm |
I use the end of a 3/8 drive extension (the square end  ) as a gauge when checking free play (engine Hot). On a rear stand I can rotate the wheel in 5th gear without removing the plugs. | ||
| Tocramed |
This may be a dumb question but...the slack is measured from the top side of the chain at it's highest point to the bottom side of the chain at it's lowest point correct? If that is correct, when I check mine (cold) there is a good inch+ at 5 or 6 different points. According to the manual, the factory's initial setting is 1/4". That would mean that the chain should hardly move at all. I don't hear a whine and I don't hear anything slapping around. I have a feeling I am way out in left field here. | ||
| Nik |
The clearance is measured from one point on the chain; top to top, center to center or bottom to bottom. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Nik's right. Pick a fixed point on the chain, push chain down, then push chain up, measure difference. Metalstorm's method is a good way to do it. I have a short steel machinist's ruler than is 3/8" wide that I use. +1 on rotating the crank and checking at several points. | ||
| Schmitty |
Clarify one thing for me. You check the chain with the engine hot and in Neutral or do you put the bike in gear and rock the chain tight? Was never real clear on that one.  Schmitty | ||
| Metalstorm |
Schmitty, I recommend in gear. 5th gear to be exact with the rear wheel raised so you can turn the rear wheel which turns the primary chain so that you can check the chain's tightness in different spots until you find the spot where is is tightest. Once you find the tightest part of the chain (always checking the top part of the chain, not the lower) then you can commence with the measuring. Once you find the 'tight spot' it won't matter if the bike is in gear or neutral when you're measuring it. But since I had it in gear to be able to move the chain, I just leave it in gear until I'm done. (Message edited by Metalstorm on August 06, 2009) | ||
| U4euh |
I always put it in nuetral and bumped the starter. Did this about 7 times = 7 different point checks. Like stated above, pick a spot on the chain, top, pins in the middle, or bottom of the chain and that is the spot you continuously check for accuracy. Always base your decision off of the tightest spot in the chain. That is to say when you do your first 4-5 bumps, look for the tightest spot, then adjust from that point. And of course do this after heating the motor up | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Tocramed- If you measure off the top with the chain lifted up, then you measure off the top with the chain pushed down. You are looking for total slack. The way you described it you would also be measuring chain thickness. | ||
| Tocramed |
Okay, for some reason I got the impression that the measurement should be taken from the top of the chain at it's highest point and bottom at it's lowest. I will re-check using the proper method. Thanks for the clarification guys. |
