| Author | Message | ||
     Ttags |
my gas light keeps coming on and off, and yes i have gas in the tank!  its a 07 firebolt 12. has anyone had similar issues? really just a shot in the dark here maybe, but i hope not... common harness kinks/chaffing areas? cluster issues? sender problems? im ASE certified in electronics, so i understand the circuitry, and know how to test it. just hoping for the answer without the hard work! thanks guys!!!! | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Sensor is inside the pump inside the tank. There was an issue with the wires chafing as the enter the frame. Hopefully, someone will post more details on exactly where. | ||
| Duff24 |
Same problem here on an '06 after 20k miles. | ||
| Cringblast |
Same here. Have done a little bit of checking for chafing wires, none found. C. | ||
| Ttags |
awesome info guys... anyone find an exact location? im a lazy shit... thanks again!!! | ||
| Etennuly |
It is inside the tank. The fuel pump is on the lower left corner of the fuel tank. It is relatively easy to do. I just did mine Monday. I have an '06 Uly and I hope the methods transfer. The book says to remove the swing arm. There is no need. Remove the left peg bracket, then take out the lower rear shock bolt, jack the bike up to the end of the swing arm's down ward travel. Try to do it when the fuel tank is empty or low. Place a gas container below the fuel pump, have a funnel in hand that will hold a quart of gas as it comes out fast. Remove the drain plug in the center of the fuel pump. It is best done in a well ventilated area, unless it is empty, spillage is at hand. Unplug the four pin fuel pump plug. Start the engine let it run until it quits. That relieves the high pressure in the line to the injectors. Remove the injector hose banjo end, then the four bolts holding the pump in. Carefully and easily pry/wiggle the pump out of the fuel tank. I used a small pry tool with no sharp corners or edges. There is a puller available. It is held in by two O rings on the outer diameter of the base circle in the frame hole. The first is in about 1/4" the second 1/2". Once they are clear pull it out as far as possible then turn it as you work it out. The inner parts are likely going to be touching the edge of the opening, so be careful working it out. I definitely recommend new O rings and the fuel strainer/filter. This is where you will see the four wires that run through the formed bracket on the pump itself. It should have all four wires showing a little wear spot where they ride over its edge. All four of mine were worn through to the bare wire. I pulled them out of the formed piece and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner on a paper towel(Bounty of course). One at a time I unplugged the wires, cut off the plug end right at the plug, slipped a sleeve of heat shrink over the wire, heated it, stripped the end, replaced the plug with a similar one with the plastic cover, re-plugged that wire and on to the next one. There is a zip tie that will need to be removed and replaced on one wire. Instead of placing the wires back into the "cut gutter", I placed them outside of it and zip tied them there. It is a test putting it back in with the swing arm in place. But with care it can be done successfully, even the first try as long as some one points out the little details. First wipe clean the hole where the O rings sit. Wipe in a coat of vasoline at the leading edge where the O rings have to slide back in. Liberally coat the O rings on the pump, on this deal vasoline is your friend. Hold the hose and the projecting parts with one hand as you align them into the hole. Screw the pump in towards the hole by what ever it takes to get it lined up. Once it is headed home double check the O rings to make sure they stayed in their grooves, pushing the filter/screen carefully in as you seat the round base part, let the first O ring touch. Recheck it for alignment all around and push it squarely in to the second O ring. Mine got hard to push at this point so I used a foot long piece of one inch by three inch board to lever off the swing arm. I set a small piece of wood on the pump end so it would not touch the fuel outlet or wires to the plug. Levered it almost all of the way in, then installed the four bolt and evenly cross tightened to pull it the rest of the way. Hooked up the fuel line, plugged in the wires, reinstalled the plug with a new O ring. I put fuel in at this point, if it were to leak, this stage would be easier to see it. Test fired the bike, checked for leaks again. Put the rest back together and went for a ride. It seems like a lot, but I was done in less than an hour and it was the first time I had done it(with some instruction from BadWeb of course). Oddly enough, with a couple short interruptions, it took that long to type this up. | ||
| Etennuly |
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| Ttags |
all i can say is WOW! really.. thanks for the detailed explanation and pictures... my light problem is intermittent so finding that would have been nearly impossible!!! huge help... thank you!!!! | ||
| Etennuly |
You are welcome, it was the same for me and the help I received here on many issues. BadWeB rocks!  | ||
| Etennuly |
Woah! NEWS FLASH! Looks like there is a potential for the low fuel light sensor to go bad also. I do not know if this is from letting this problem with the wires linger for six months, but my LF light came on yesterday when it should not have. Today I call the dealer for another set of O rings, a sensor, and I'm gonna replace that round filter this time too. To clarify a bit, there is a fuel pickup screen-filter, and a round metal filter that I did not replace while doing my wire fix. As long as I'm going back in..... | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Yup, the sensors go bad, AND the wires chafe. I've had my sensor replaced once. And when it happened about 1500 miles later because of chafed wires, they just replaced the whole pump assembly under warranty for me. The newer pumps have far more insulation around the wires, they are also secured better to the pump itself. | ||
| Roycet4 |
Got to say, this was a great write up by Etennuly, I just pulled the pump on my son's 2006 CityX as the low fuel light was on all the time, found all three wires chafed, heatshrink wrapped all three, replaced both filters, low level sensor and all the o-rings.. pretty easy.. and took a 2-3 hours of taking my time... | ||
| Jfman |
Do you need to pull the airbox to get to the banjo hookup for the fuel line? |
