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Archive through May 27, 2009Skinstains30 05-27-09  05:52 pm
         

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Garyl
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It was your argument, that the "press fit" is destroyed, so how will a replaced bearing prevent from the scenario you describe? Will the pressure magically re-appear? Sorry, but a replaced bearing is a typical seems-to-be-better-repair, without any real advantage, just more effort and higher risk to fail.

It is the metal bearing cage that deforms easily, not the case hardened drive gear.

No magic.

(Message edited by GaryL. on May 27, 2009)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hugh, you can't pull that bearing out (or press a new one all the way in) because there is a transmission shaft in the middle. The front sprocket bolts to the 5th gear drive assembly, which has teeth that engage, err, some other gear. The transmission output shaft rides on those needle bearings inside that 5th gear assembly.

When your bike is in neutral, that shaft is spinning inside that sprocket assembly.

If you are able to press that bearing back in with that shaft in the middle of it, you don't have a very good press fit. It takes a hydraulic press to press those things in and out...
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Carbide
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, I have consulted a couple of very knowledgeable Harley/Buell mechs who told me to tap the existing bearing back in, reseal it and keep a very close eye on it until the trip in a couple weeks. So that's what I did today.
My hope is that the belt is now seated and stretched enough with a week of solid hard riding that it will not cause any more problems.
I understand the more cautious among you wanting to split the cases and totally rebuild, but honestly I can not afford that right now and I'm willing to pull the belt cover at every gas stop to have a look. If all is well leading into the trip, I will carry a couple extra seals and tools just in case.
I was also considering making a retainer for the seal that mounts to the pulley to keep the sucker from doing it again. My only concern is throwing off the balance of the pulley. Any thoughts?
Thanks fellas!
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think the seal PN is 12030, if you want to try to tap it in as well.

Following the right pages of the manual this time, you don't need a press for that bearing. There is a special tool to set the depth. And the advice to use new bearings. Those two things might make it a better gamble.

Good luck, it's a tough call either way.
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Id073897
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is the metal bearing cage that deforms easily, not the case hardened drive gear.

So the outer ring is not hardened? How will it deform, that it looses the fit?
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Id073897
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

that the belt is now seated and stretched enough with a week of solid hard riding that it will not cause any more problems.

Did you do the converstion to swap OEM belt with the newer style Goodyear belt? I never heard about a '02 or '03 model suffering a really tight belt.

and I'm willing to pull the belt cover at every gas stop to have a look.

Make a bore into the sprocket cover large enough to peek through it. It's easy to see if the seal is still in place or not.

I was also considering making a retainer for the seal that mounts to the pulley to keep the sucker from doing it again.

I would not recommend doing so. The seal would be crushed and it's parts spread directly into the bearing. No good idea. Usually it takes weeks and months for the bearing to move that far, this is not happening within a day or two.
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Buellinator
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 05:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Carbide! Don't you just love Badweb?
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Smoke
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 06:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

my s1 motor did the same thing. i greased the crap out of the bearing needles by hand, tapped the bearing back in with a hammer and proper sized socket and left the cover off for a month as i watched what was going to happen. after a month of no issues i put the sprocket cover back on. i would check it after that at tire changes and had no further issues. eventually through too much time at the rev limiter(bumped to 7500), i destroyed the front rod and punched a hole in the cases. the bearing never walked out again and the s1 got a transplant.
best luck,
tim
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Carbide
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes I love the badweb!! Every time I run into an issue or need advice this is the first place I go.
Yes I did the belt upgrade just before a trip to Newfoundland last year. That style of belt is currently in it's fourth generation of design, so it may have changed ever so slightly from the one I put on last year. In fact I noticed the back of the new belt design is not smooth like the older one, but has an "orange peel" texture. I'm not sure if this would affect tension.
Thanks again for all of the advice!
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