| Author | Message | ||
     Stephenf4563 |
I just bought a 2003 buell Xb9s, with about 3500 miles on it. It runs and drives pefectly except for when I apply the front brake I get a little bit of pulsing out of the front end. Should I be worried about it, I was just going to replace the Rotor and pads and see what that does, but let me know what you guys think. | ||
| Damnut |
Change the pads to something other than the stock ones. The stock ones leave a deposit on the rotor and causes them to pulse. You can get good pads at American Sport Bike. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
So the rotor isnt warped? | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
welcome ! i just got a 2003 as well got a pic of it yet? | ||
| Damnut |
I would get the pads first since this is a common issue with the stock pads. | ||
| Damnut |
Read up young Jedi.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/344063.html?1209227213 | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
get the pade first, then the rotor if it doesnt quit | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Damnut, you are a lifesaver. Im ordering pads tomorrow. Mine has been pulsing for a while. | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
Thanks guys, I am a converted suzuki rider, and I love these bike, but am really clueless about the way they work, I stumbled across this site, and already am In love with it. I dont believe the rotor is warped it feels like the pads are just gripping up, harder in some spots, should I hone down the rotor when Im replacing the pads to get that deposit off or will standard brake cleaner work? no Pics yet I just got it about a week ago, and its rained every day since  | ||
| Damnut |
I went through the same thing when I first got my bike. | ||
| Damnut |
If you put Lyndols or something as good, they will take care of the deposits for you. If you do want to clean the rotor, spray brake cleaner on a rag first and wipe. Not sure what brake cleaner will do to the finish of the wheels. | ||
| Duff24 |
+1. Try cleaning the rotor of deposits first, usually a noticeable difference if it hasn't been cleaned before. | ||
| Jraice |
+1 clean the rotor with parts cleaner and a rough pad or even 220 grit sand paper. Use new brake pads. Should solve your problem. Have also heard hard braking can temporarily solve the problem. | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
While you're down there inspecting the front brake, take a look at your oil cooler lines. They can rub together and start leaking. I had mine start leaking a few weeks back. It's cheap and easy to prevent (just need a some rubber and zip ties to create a separator). It's problem primarily on 03 models. New lines aren't cheap, unless you find them on ebay, so it's waaay better to prevent the problem. Also the lyndols are a really nice upgrade for the stock pads. (Message edited by not_purple_s2 on May 01, 2009) | ||
| Andymnelson |
I've said it before, I'll say it again (and again...): replacing the pads is NOT necessary (but it may solve you problems). The above posters are correct: the stock pads leave a residue of sorts on the rotor, but that is not what causes the pulsing. When you stop, the pads and rotor gets very hot. If you sit at the stop light or whatever with the front brake clamped down, this creates an even hotter spot on the rotor the cooks that residue into a deposit that will cause the warping. Simple solution: clean the rotor, and from now on release the front brake once stopped, or use your rear brake to hold you at a light. I've got 15,000 on stock pads and no issues. (Message edited by andymnelson on May 01, 2009) | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
great guys, glad I found this forum great advise thanks so much , I'm looking forward to learning more ! | ||
| Jraice |
I do recall you talking about that in the past Andy. Ill try and make a habit to only use the rear at stop lights, as I already only put my left foot down. Has anybody noticed, on the topic of rear brakes, how bad the buells is  . I was experimenting with using it to control speed on some downhill goat trail (very narrow roads) and man I feel like I would have to put all my weight on the thing to do ANYTHING. Other bikes I have ridden didnt have a great rear brake but it would slow you down at a slow rate if something were to happen to the front brake, this brake is just a joke though. | ||
| Happy1 |
rear brake can get you in alot of trouble if you go around stomp'n on it. its both breaks when you start to slow then gradually just the front. if i remember right. i would guess thats why mr. buell designed it that way. feel free to correct me if i'm mistaken. oh.....trail breaking would be an exception and in that case you wouldn't want alot of stop'n power in the rear......right? | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
well isn't most of the weight in the front of the bike how do you expect it to be as effective going down hill, basically your pulling along the rear tire if you mash on the back brake. | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
I don't mean to derail the thread. However since you say you are new to Buells and you bought an 03 XB9S, just like mine, I feel compelled to offer some meager advice. 1. FRAME PUCKS! Frame pucks didn't come standard until fairly recently so if the previous owner hasn't installed them this should be the first part you buy for your bike. I've dropped my bike in the drive way and on the track and both times they worked great. In the driveway they barely even scuffed and at the track they saved me from a heavily dented frame or possibly totaled bike. Also along this same vein; axle sliders are just as valuable in a lay down. I was running DarkHorseMoto's Econo Sliders front and back when I went down and they're worth their weight in gold. Luckily they're pretty cheap. 2. Check your wheel bearings and kickstand. The Bearings should be orange not black and the kickstand should have an "R" on the bottom. These are recall items so if you don't have the correct ones your dealer should upgrade them free of charge. I'd definitely check them on your bike since it has such low miles. 3. Speaking of low miles, does it have new tires? The stock dunlops (aka dunflops) were crap to begin with and by now they'd be quite old and in desperate need of replacement. You can find all kinds of opinions on tires here. Personally I really like my Conti Sport/Road Attacks. 4. Don't use Mobil 1 Gear oil in the primary. There have been many accounts that it can ruin the stator. 5. Check your oil cooler lines. make sure they're not rubbing. You can make a cheap separator with a small piece of rubber hose and a zip tie. 6. Set up your suspension. These bikes are touchy about suspension changes. Your best bet is to set it up according to the owners manual and then tweak it from there. There's also an "aggressive" suspension setup in the archives. 7. If you have any questions or problems use the search function (links are at the top and bottom of the page). Most likely any problem you'll have, someone here has been through it before. And always feel free to post any question, problems, or modifications. Especially modifications! you just better have a digital camera cause we're gonna want to see. 8. Also be aware that there were issues with the drive belt on the '03 models. I've got over 13K on mine with no problems yet but others have had so many problems that they switched to chain drive. An upgraded belt replaces that original belt so if the previous owner didn't replace it, then it would be wise to get the new belt next time you change the tires. Other options are changing to the 04+ belt, but that requires new pulleys and tensioner or you can do the saintly chain drive conversion. The chain has both advantages and disadvantages compared to the belt. (Message edited by not_purple_s2 on May 01, 2009) | ||
| Cmm213 |
On your front brake issue I have a tip. The ztl rotor is mounted with spring centering type bolts. make sure none of the springs sliders or whatever they are, are stuck. Also check your steering head bearings, if the cap is not torqued right it will shimmy also. You really need a service book. You will find out that your buell will need special attn, more than your previous bikes. Some times my xb can be a love hate relationship, but the love has always outweighed the hate. Good luck, everyone or almost everyone here will always try to help another bueller. | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
thanks guys !!! I am going to take it to the dealer next week to have It all checked out. they will no about those recalls correct or do you think I should say something before hand? | ||
| Akbuell |
Just my opinion, but don't take a chance re the recall items. Just be polite, friendly, and have your VIN with you at the counter when you go in. You and the service writer can check the recall items together. | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
okay cool, just a another question, I can push on the front rotor and it will move a bit, is this because of the spring sets that it has, or should it be tightened | ||
| Fullcircle |
Normal for that movement. The springs push the rotor out against the bolt heads. movement when pushed in is normal and why its called a floating rotor. On a side note I had a pretty bad pulse in mine and when I took the rotor off I found several of the springs seized in the holes they sit in. After getting them out and freed up the pulse is much better. | ||
| Stephenf4563 |
okay look thanks for the heads up | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I just wanted to update for some one who may search for this in the future. I took brakeclean and sprayed it on a rag and wiped down my rotor. I went for a ride and was pretty sure this would do nothing for my pulsation since I barely got anything off on the rag. I am floored to report the pulsation is comepletely gone.  I am so glad I found this thread. | ||
| 03worc9r |
listen to Not_purple_s2 , I have an 03 xb and had to do everything he listed. bike is problem free now!! | ||
| Skinstains |
Where the hell is Mickleton, and what dealer are you thinking on using for your service ? This is a very important question as some dealers come with a very long list of very pissed-off Buellers. |
