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Firebolt32
Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

To drain the gas from the frame? I'm thinking I have an intermittent fuel pump problem. I've dug through the archives and read up on how to pull it and what to check for. But what's the best way to get the fuel out?
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Rays
Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just went through this exercise on my '06 Uly - there is a drain plug on the fuel pump. I used an angled funnel to drain the fuel out to the side but still ended up with a bit of a mess.

I had about 3/4 tank of fuel when mine started playing up so it took a while to drain it all - if you run it down to reserve before you start it will save a bit of hassle.

Just make sure you are in a well ventilated area and be mindful of how how dangerous petrol and petrol fumes can be.
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Phwx2
Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 06:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have used a $2.00 plastic fluid pump (by hand, obviously not the battery operated unit) to drain most of the fuel out of the tank through the filler. This is the kind of thing sold at hardware stores. You can snake the end into each side of the tank and get most of the fuel out. Then drain the rest.
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

From service manual, note the two stages, purge then drain:

To prevent spray of fuel, purge system of high-pressure
fuel before supply line is disconnected. Gasoline is
extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could
result in death or serious injury. (00275a)
1. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gasoline.
a. See Figure 4-85. Disconnect the 4-place fuel pump
connector (2) [86]. Connector is located inside the
left rear portion of the fuel tank/frame.
b. With the motorcycle in neutral, start the engine and
allow vehicle to run.
c. When the engine stalls, press the starter button for 3
seconds to remove any remaining fuel from fuel line.


1WARNING
Stop the engine when refueling or servicing the fuel system.
Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks near
gasoline. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly
explosive, which could result in death or serious injury.
(00002a)
2. Remove drain plug (5) and drain fuel into appropriate
container. Discard plug.
3. When fuel tank is empty, replace with
new
drain plug.
Tighten to 84-108
in-lbs
(9.5-12.2 Nm).
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Firebolt32
Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You guys are awesome. Guess I should have check the manual. I didn't think they'd have it in there to be honest.

Rays...I read about two possible ways of getting to the filter. I saw one guy disconnected the spring to allow play in the swing arm and I also read that you can disconnect the swingarm itself. What route did you go?
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Terrys
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I also just drained my fuel and removed the pump
Tip 1: Don't let the drain plug fall into the funnel or you will have gas all over your garage ....Ha Ha man what a mess.

Getting the pump out is trick (I had my whole bike torn down so it was a little easier for me) I'd try "disconnected the spring to allow play in the swing arm" 1st
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Rays
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 06:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I did it by removing the lower shock bolt and jacking the bike a little higher to give enough clearance to get the pump out. Be careful doing this as things get pretty unstable at this point.
However, having looked at what that does to the belt tension I will remove the belt tensioner before doing that if/when I remove the pump again.
If you don't have the special puller then all you need is a bolt to screw into the pump body (1/4" UNC I think). Put a flat washer on the bolt before fitting and by using a small 1/4" socket sitting on the frame next to the pump as a fulcrum point for a large flat blade screwdriver placed with the tip under the washer, relatively little force will have the pump will come out easy as pie.

I used a couple of new O-rings for the pump body (P0121.02A8 for the Uly) when I replaced the pump (even though the old ones looked OK) and it has sealed perfectly.
In my case I saved myself from a certain breakdown with the fuel pump power wire insulation worn so thin you could see the wire strands through it!
The pump return wire was worn through and causing the pump to occasionally run continuously at switch on.

The removal of the insulated cover on this internal loom was definitely not a reliability enhancement.
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You have checked all the visible wiring for wear, haven't you? That wear could cause intermittent problems.
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Firebolt32
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The pump return wire was worn through and causing the pump to occasionally run continuously at switch on.

This is what I think I have. I've outfitted the new shed we bought to suspend the bike without the rear stand. That shouldn't be a probably. I have checked the wiring harness and all seems fine.
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Slaughter
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rays method above - is EXACTLY how I do it (not worth getting the "OFFICIAL" $$$ tool)

You MUST lever it out S-L-O-W-L-Y!! The O-rings will have swelled and will make it a TIGHT fit (a good thing) Steady pressure on the screwdriver/lever - Don't just try popping it right out.

(just my $0.02 devalued for inflation)
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Slaughter
Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One more thing - DO NOT reuse the o-rings!!! The originals will have swollen TOO MUCH (should be common sense)

Buy the manual. A picture is worth a thousand words!!
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