| Author | Message | ||
     Sfinton |
I'm getting ready to swap my cam cover and header here in the next day. I've been reading the manual and it seems like there might be some steps that I do not need to do since I'm only swapping the cover. I do NOT plan on touching the cams..replacing the cover only. Is it really necessary to remove the push rods and lifters? I remember Al saying something about removing one rocker and rotating the engine to TDC. My motor is dropped right now and is ready to go. I looked for searched from this topic but only found a few threads. Has anyone had hands on experience with this? | ||
| Point_doc |
Sfinton, Read this link, it should help. Good luck... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/387168.html | ||
| Terrys |
ok now I'm a little freaked out. I did remove my cam cover for power coating. I dropped the motor removed the header, timing plate etc and popped the cover off. I didn't keep the bike in any specific gear or rotate the engine to TDC ...did I make a mess?? | ||
| Sfinton |
There was one guy on here who did that and never had any problems. I plan on going by the manual. Just trying to get some input on the situation that I'm getting myself into. | ||
| Point_doc |
Terrys, If your cams came out with the cover, then I am the one that Sfinton is referring too... I did use the shop manual for installation and timing. (Message edited by Point_Doc on March 31, 2009) | ||
| Akbuell |
Just pulling the cover without doing anything else has been done, and I guess successfully. The idea behind removing one set of pushhrods (removing the rocker box, actually) and rotating the other cyl to TDC on the compression stroke is to relieve all pressure on the cams. If you don't, one or more of the valves will be open, and the valve springs will be pushing on the cam(s). When the cover comes off, that cam(s) and the pressure on it will only be supported by the crankcase bushing, and damage may occur. When I did my X-1, I did remove the pushrods. You already have the engine prepared, so taking off one rocker box is easy. And since you have the manual, the cams are easy to 'time' if one comes out. And no need to remove the lifters. If you do have to re-time the cams, the lifters are easy to push up from inside the cam case to get the cam in. | ||
| Terrys |
1st what type of damage could happen will it warp the cams?? 2nd Sfinton if your going to swap cam covers make sure you mark your timing plate by outlining the bolt location with a scribe. When i get home tonight I'll take a pic showing this | ||
| Sfinton |
How far does the engine rotate down? I am dropping it right now and it looks like I will not be able to get on my rear header nuts straight. Front head I will be able to get to, but not sure about the rear. Can anyone help? | ||
| Point_doc |
1st you will not warp a cam, the steel is hard steel. What may happen is you may damage the bearings that the cam rest on. The engine will rotate down until it stops rotating. You should have to remove the plate that the foot peg is attached too for full tilt, then you should have access to the rear exhaust with an extension. (Message edited by Point_Doc on March 31, 2009) | ||
| Terrys |
Point_doc: thanks for the info Sfinton: A pic for marking your timing plate I followed the manual for the engine drop. If you do it that way it will rotate done a lot I had no problem with the rear header bolts  |
