| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
Sold my imaculate 2005 Yamaha R6 tonight for $5100's... Also stopped by first at the local buell dealer and started the real talks... They started at MSRP... Talked them down a good bit (wont say numbers until the deal is done but its well under MSRP OTD)... Going to check a few other places and see what I can do... Hoping to be on a buell within a week or two MAX. Cant go long without a bike... Going to hold onto enough cash to do a little bit of modding  How long did you guys wait from purchase to get a drummer? I know I should wait until I get to 1000 miles, then do the synthetic oil swap and then install a pipe after its all broken in but I know I am going to be TEMPTED... I guess waiting a bit longer will make me appreciate it more... Other mods I want to do include tail chop and integrated turn signals, bar end mirros, traction grips and maybe pegs... That will probably be about it... Oh and maybe aftermarket brake pads to prevent the rotor from getting the notorious residue from the stock pads... Man I am excited  . Cant wait to take it into the mountains and the twisties in my "backyard" and see how it compares to the R6. At speed I expect it to be similar but on my favorite super twisty roads I am thinking it will be a night and day difference, under 40mph... | ||
| Boltrider |
I think you will feel more in control of the bike in the middle and coming out of the corners. That V-twin motor is very street friendly. | ||
| Bo_sox |
Hey Jordan - welcome to the soon to be insanity for which there is no cure! I installed my Drummer SS well under 1000 miles, but I wouldn't of hesitated to install it sooner. The only issue was I had to wait nearly 4 months to receive the pipe from Kevin (Drummer). Let me tell you it was WELL worth the wait. Sweet & deep sound, looks great, and the craftsmanship is A+. I've been reading on here that some people have had to wait up to 6-8 months to get their can manufactured. Point being - if you're considering a Drummer, get on his waiting list the day you bring your Buell home. It'll be worth every penny and your bike will love you for it plus you'll be turning heads and making I-4's jealous! | ||
| Jraice |
Yeah I am super excited to ride this thing... I heard because of the geometry of twins they like to stand up under acceleration, is that BS? Also when you say 4-8 months is that waiting for him to get to you or is that waiting for him to finish your can... Meaning you didnt have an exhaust for 4 months?!?!?! Ill see what happens... To start I want to do a few cosmetic things, but I want to space out my mods as much as possible to truly enjoy modding it... Like I said, I want to do grips, mirrors and tail tidy first, then maybe pegs later on and at some point soon, the drummer. Stock this thing sounds WEAK. Also, anybody changing oil before 1000 miles? I was thinking of doing the engine atleast (probably leave tranny for synthetic at 1000 miles), at around 100 miles, with dino. Just to flush out any shavings or other debris from initial break in. | ||
| Big_b |
Bo_Sox has the Drummer SS. So he didn't have to have his modded. I don't think the wait time is as long on the original Drummer. I guess it just depends on how busy Kevin is. | ||
| Fastxb12r |
Yea the drummer SS is REALLY NICE but its pricey and a long wait but if you got the time and dime....Otherwise if I didnt have a race pipe already I would buy a drummer you cant beat the look sound price and quality of the pipes.Make shure you get sliders as I would say they rate higher on the mod level than the brake pads.IMHO... | ||
| Gunut75 |
Congrats Jraice!!!!! I'm getting my XBR to the shop today to finish my sliders, cut the air box, frame pucks, traction grips, and make a catch can. I'll probably have her done next week. Mine has that stock "weak" sound, but that will all change before the end of summer. The towns in WI are'nt very picky about noise, so.........LOUD AND PROUD BABY! Keep yer rubber side down.  | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
"I heard because of the geometry of twins they like to stand up under acceleration, is that BS?" While engines of all types do produce gyroscopic forces, I wouldn't say the v-twin in the Buell is appreciably different. I think the tendency to "stand up" was mostly due to the old stock Dunlops that have since been eliminated from the lineup. The new tires are worlds better. | ||
| Xbrfirebolt |
Also, anybody changing oil before 1000 miles? I changed mine at 80 miles. Engine and primary. Again at 350 miles. Quite a bit of metal shavings/chips from both the first time. Very little the second. | ||
| Jcbikes |
Change often when new. everything breaking in. I changed mine at 250, 500, 750,then 1000. then have been changing every 1,500 since then and now have 25,000 trouble free miles on it. to me, clean oil cannot hurt it. i use rotella t. in it and 80w90 gear oil. i think the new bikes require buells tranny oil. best of luck with the new buell. | ||
| Jraice |
Why does the new bike require buells tranny oil? Stator compatibility? I have heard some oils are safe for primary and some are not but never heard it HAD to be buells oil. I was going to do just one change but I think I might as well give it to. Jcbikes, you also did the primary at all those intervals? Is rotella t a synthetic? If so, 2,500 seems awfully often and expensive, I know Harleys do 5,000 miles with synthetic and my dad changes it on his own inbetween services (so ever 2,500). Thats what I was planning to do... every 2,500. But when I get the bike brand new I think Ill do one change around 75-100 miles and then another closer to 300, both oils, both with dino. Did you guys replace oil filters as well? Havent read up on the buell oil change, is it an easy bike? I know the R6 needed to be lifted on the rear stand, some plastics removed but not to difficult... Im assuming with the buell's naked'ness that the filter, drain plug, etc... is all easily accessable and its a fairly quick job. Also anybody have a torque they like to use on the bolt? I know people say finger tight then 1/3-1/2 turn... But I bought a torque wrench, I want to use it! | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Congrats on your upcoming purchase. The newer ('06+) need the Buell primary oil, because it has some friction modifiers in it to help the clutch. I wouldn't use anything BUT the HD oil in the primary, or you could risk some clutch slippage. I use Rotella-T(Synthetic) in the colder months here in Wisconsin. And switch to redline 20-50 in the summer months. I change mine at around 3k-3.5K To Change the oil on the Buell is EASY. Remove the screws on the right side of the chin spoiler, spin off the filter. I ALWAYS replace the filter with oil I wouldn't replace the oil at 75-100 miles. I discussed changing oil early with a Buell power-train engineer and Hals head Buell tech. They both recommended against it. It's a really high detergent oil that helps break-in supposedly. Let it do at least 500 miles. | ||
| Juniorkirk |
+1 to Steve_mackay on the primary oil. Use Formula+ in the primary. I do an oil change every 3k miles on my bike and i run Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. as for the first few oil changes, i'm with Steve on that one too, follow the service manual to the dot on it. I'm pretty sure those Buell guys who designed the bike KNOW how to break in the engine pretty good. For the oil change, I just use the buell filter, but probably gonna be going to the Fram one soon. The bolts that hold the chin fairing on is a T-27 torque wrench just to let you know now. I used a T-25 for a little while but it slipped on a couple of the bolts then i read that its a 27. Another trick for the oil change is take a paper cup and put it over your exhaust outlet so no oil gets on it. and i use some aluminum foil for under the oil filter so it doesnt get all over my pipe and ends up smelling like burnt oil for the first 50 miles or so. | ||
| Jraice |
Sounds good Ill talk to the dealer but sounds like I might be best off just letting the stock oil stay in until 1000 miles and then switch to Royal Purple Synthetic... Its just hearing that at 100 miles there was metal makes me wonder about changing it sooner. So Formula+ is made by Harley? Is it synthetic? I'd like to use something different then stock as I have heard it makes the bike shift a bit better with a synthetic... Also its looking like I am going to take the offer I was given, several other dealerships couldnt beat it, said go for it. Maybe Ill ask for some oil/filters/grips or something then seal the deal . Anyways might be coming home tomorrow with a brand new red XB12Ss ... Going to do some riding if I get it, nice and easy. What is break-in anyways on these guys? First mod will probably be sliders front and back, then as time goes by some small cosmetic things and after I switch to synthetic Ill probably get a drummer so I can see how it feels (want to ride it a bit stock to get used to it so the difference will be more noticable)... Unless I just cant resist and have to get it sooner ... With the great weather though, 1000 miles should go by quickly... Maybe do a weekend trip or two and it will be well over 1500. | ||
| Caféelite |
I have 19k on my bike and have always run royal purple 20\50.. Good luck on your bike. | ||
| Brumbear |
I started running amsoil in the engine was running mobil1 but I thought I'd try the amsoil. Always HD tranny in the primary | ||
| Jraice |
Yeah I have always heard redline is known for great twin oil but I have heard great things about royal purple... Runs cooler, quiter at the higher rev's... etc... etc... Im thinking Ill do a 2,500 mile interval, I wont be racing the bike but I am sure Ill be doing more then cruising so I think thats a good interval. Will have to do more research on after market filters but will stick with HD for now... And is the HD tranny oil synthetic or any different then stock...? I guess Ill stick with that as well... So the offer was $10700 OTD... Was going to work on that but other dealers said just take it... Going to go in and see if I can get a few filters, some traction grips, just some small goodies and the bike for that price and call it a done deal... Also already got insurance quote, $600 a year (through dad as I am a 17 year old male with one ticket... not a good combo) for full coverage, not bad... A bit more then the R6 but that was half the displacement and half the price (2005, $440 a year). | ||
| Brumbear |
Tell em 10,5 or no deal OTD see what he says ya never Know | ||
| Jraice |
I could do that but I'd rather have $300's worth of parts I would buy (saddle bags, filters, oil, grips etc...) then $200's of the OTD price so I think Ill say deal, $10,700 but I want some goodies thrown in. | ||
| Brumbear |
that sounds good 1 way or the other | ||
| Glitch |
How long did you guys wait from purchase to get a drummer? When I bought my Lightning, there was no after market anything. So, I ordered my bike with the Buell Race Kit (ECM, Air Filter, & Race Muffler}. There was 2.5 miles on the odometer when I picked it up. Now there's over 60thousand, and it still runs great! Go ahead and get the Drummer when you feel like it. After all the Drummer more than likely is the most Buell Friendly pipe made. No tuning necessary, it's built with that in mind. The SS Drummer with me is tied with the Latus for the sound, and since you can't get a Latus, the Drummer wins. IMHO | ||
| Jcbikes |
I changed both holes at those intervals with the filter. I do not use the synthetic rotella t. thats why i change more often. dino oil breaks down in these engines between 1,500 and 2,000 miles i have heard. I use the dino oil because it is the less expensive way to have cleaner oil in the engine but still get good lubrication. It seems to be working after all the miles. | ||
| Jraice |
Its in the garage So much for them detailing it, ride home in rain dirtied it up nicely. Have obviously not had a chance to open it up (break-in) or see how it handles (rain and new tires) but it feels good. Suspension is super soft, atleat compared to the R6. Was a tad but surprised at the dive. Engine feels great above 3,200rpm, almost as refined as the R6. Didnt go over 4,000rpm and between 2,500RPM and 3,000RPM, atleast with stock grips, the vibrations are pretty bad but cruise above 3K and it smooths RIGHT out. Stock seat was SUPER comfortable and ride was fine at 70mph... Really excited for better weather and more riding Pics coming soon... want to wash it before I take any good ones. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
If it's an '09 SS, the suspension WILL be soft. It's the same suspension as the Super-TT was, and IMHO, the best all around bike that Buell ever sold! | ||
| Sifo |
Congrats Jordan! Did the dealer set up the suspension for your weight? It wouldn't hurt to double check just to be sure. It's easy to do and is all laid out in the owners manual. | ||
| Jraice |
They said they did, I will double check at some point. And yes its an Ss I have heard that Super-TT was an amazing suspension so I really hope this bike handles as great as you guys say. Its soft but besides the smooth twisties and around town I also do a lot of less traveled roads and tighter roads that the R6 suspension was a bit on the stiff side for... That, along with the ready to attack upright position should make this thing kill the twisties, not to mention the torque and lack of a jolt when getting on the gas from full off throttle. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
You mentioned that you had a brand new torque wrench. DO NOT TORQUE YOUR OIL DRAIN PLUG TO SPEC. The wrong torque value is given in the shop manual. Do get a shop manual by the way, just tighten that drain plug snuggly, not to the 60ft/lb or whatever it says in the book. That stuff is 100% aluminum. Congratulations on the new bike. I made the mistake of riding mine in the rain today. It washed some of the mud off. | ||
| Mbxb12scg |
Hey Jordan - Congrats on the purchase! Definitely check the suspension settings. They told me they set mine up and turned out that they just set the preload, but the compression and rebound were way off. I rode mine around for a few weeks before adjusting and was amazed at the difference when adjusted to the manual settings. Same here on riding in the rain today... Of course the rain somehow gets drops of water on the inside of the airbox, so it isn't a simple exterior cleaning. I guess it just gives me something to do while it rains tomorrow. | ||
| Htekwo |
The Suspension on my Ss was also very soft stock. It beat me up trying to get the pig to turn before I did some suspension tuning. Jacked up the rear and stiffened up the front (too much brake dive). Now it turns in like my wifes Scg and doesn't freak you out under hard braking. Don't judge the handling of the bike until you do some suspension changes! | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks! For now Ill ride it as is, then check in 1-2 weeks to see if its properly adjusted then as time goes by maybe consider doing some mods to make it more aggressive... Idealy the high performance shock kit would be used (plus you get a red shock in the back!) to stiffen it up rather then just using preload... |
