| Author | Message | ||
     Ochoa0042 |
I have a few spare front fairings and am experimenting with some cool designs.. my bike will have orange/amber tribal graphics and a black plastics.... my first coat of the orange was really runny, it almost seemed as if it didnt want to hang around on the surface.. then I painted the inside sirface and it stuck really well, and the inner surface is a bit rough and the outter surface is glass smooth.. so im guessing it have to do with the surface finish   So for my next try at it, should I grind it down with some sandpaper??? what are other things I should do for the prep work??? Any step by step instructions??? thanks peeps  | ||
| Sleez |
yeah, no expert, but in painting many many things in my life, i would scrub the gloss off at the least. 400 or 600 grit should be ok, just knock the gloss off evenly using straight strokes in a hatch pattern, then wipe clean with alcohol or wash with water and let dry. i have had good luck with this method. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
the demo paint job it's drying out.... this is the design thats on the front fairing: black bike, orange graphics.... I've cheated a bit and too a look-see.. and it looks awesome!!!   | ||
| Moosestang |
I use 600 grit, wash with soap, water and I use naptha to remove any oil/wax residue, then a couple coats of primer(primer is not just for metal). I've used rubbing alcohol in the past, but prefer naptha because it evaporates much faster. I let the primer dry at least 30 minutes then i'll wet sand it with 800 grit before spraying the color. I usually do three coats of clear at least and then wet sand with 2000 grit to knock down the orange peel. Use rubbing compound and polish to make it shine. Do a few light coats, let it get tacky before spraying another light coat or it will run. I've had very good results using all duplicolor products. Don't mix primer from one company with color coat from another. Better to stick with one company so you know it's all compatible. I've never used any adhesion promoters for plastics, but it couldn't hurt. I have painted the translucent plastic and the solid color plastics with good results. The flyscreen is likely to chip no matter what you do, so i've not even attempted it. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
but I dont think any of ya have done graphics.... And im making my own graphics with special paper from office depot: the paper used is basically a 8.5" x 11" sheet of paper with a sticky backing.. so I can print out what design I want to use, get a exacto-blade, cut out what I need, then place on the bike what I have done is set the base coat orange, so I spray painted the while fairing orange.. placed the graphics where I wanted em, and then painted the fairing black.. Pull off the graphics and VOLA, this bike is the shiznit Moose: why so complex? what does plastice primer used for? I usually do three coats of clear at least and then wet sand with 2000 grit to knock down the orange peel. Use rubbing compound and polish to make it shine. so you polish the paint? ==== anyone need to add/drop steps, please do ==== starting off by sanding the glassy finish away with 800grit, and then get some sea-breeze & soap to clean it off, and then let it dry, and then spray on the orange all over, and then let the orange dry out, and then place the graphics, and then sand the orange parts without paper just a tid-bit for the black coat to adhere, and then spray the black coat, and then let the black paint dry, and then let it sit over night, and then pull off the graphics, and then lightly sand the whole thing with 1000grit, and then clear coat the whole thing to seal & protect | ||
| Firebolt32 |
what does plastice primer used for? promotes the color. white primers for bright and a dark primers for darks. I'm on the same page as Moose other than I do use Bulldog on plastics. An adhesive never hurts... I like the graphic...should come out well. | ||
| Moosestang |
I always get some orange peel in the finish when using rattle cans. http://www.finishwiz.com/orangepeel.htm I usually just wet sand it out with fine sand paper and then you have to polish the clear back to a shiny, wet looking finish. Even 2000 grit will dull the clear coat. I do not use plastic specific primer, but I always use primer. Even regular primer promotes good adhesion. Spray color on bare plastic is likely to peel. Using a primer, then it's only going to chip.  Follow the drying instructions on the can. (Message edited by moosestang on February 12, 2009) | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
Im checking up on my demo plastics and I see something that I dont like.... If I try to scratch it by digging a fingernail.. the paint peels right off. Its not a flake effect, its like one of those bingo tickets you get from the gas station. Is this normal!?! I mean, I can walk right up to my car, give it a hard scratch and none of the paint falls off like this stuff!!! ==== anyone need to add/drop steps, please do ==== more steps? less? are they spot-on? (Message edited by ochoa0042 on February 12, 2009) | ||
| P3newbie |
damhik- degrease and clean- before- you sand. sanding first pushes the waxes, oils, and other stuff deeper into the plastic. then sand,(more course first then finer) prime,(let dry thoroughly) sand out any scratches.(finer paper) re-prime, let dry, scuff using a scotch-brite, tack rag it off. light base coat, let flash off (dry mostly) then 2-3 medium coats (let each one flash before adding more color). let flash off again. clearcoat, or add graphic then clearcoat. use same procedure for clear. this is a basic outline, pm me for more info. started learning custom paint this past summer, may be able to save you some aggravation. | ||
| Slaughter |
You really should use a rougher sandpaper on the fresh plastic to get GOOD adhesion of the primer. I've used 320 wet with good results You can wet sand the primer with about 400 grit before color coating. Sand color coat with about 600 before clear coating. Clear coat SHOULD be sprayed and left to dry. IF the clear goes funky - runs or orange peel - blocksand and shoot again. DO NOT try laying on heavy coats, especially if shooting metallic - metallics use more clear in the mix and you'll only get "the runs." Buy better paint and a spray gun. Rattle can paints will ALWAYS be fragile as compared to 2-part catalyzed acrylic or polyurethane. If cost is an issue, just get used to a finish that will look good until your first fuel drips or bug splats or nicks by keys or rubbing by your knees. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
im on my second demo, I have put the prime coat on it and I have sanded it with 800grit.... do I wash it and then let it dry before I place the base coat??? | ||
| Moosestang |
I wet sand the primer and just rinse with water, no soap. I usually use my heat gun to dry it faster. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
the primer didnt seem to help out with the runny-ness of the paint.... I have a few of these  would I be able to sand these out before I place the graphics without dulling the paint overall in the end? the paint process sounds like you sand the paint once everything has been painted, and then the clear coat fills in the gaps/grooves of the sandpaper/dulled-paint making the whole thing look glass smooth. So if you followed the steps and took out the clear coat, the paint job would look dull.. am I in the right ballpark here? if so, its will be A-OK to sand down the runny-ness??? edit2=== should I put it in the oven to cure it? Ive googled it, and cure temps are at like 400degrees... 400 seems a bit much and it may warp the plastics (Message edited by ochoa0042 on February 13, 2009) | ||
| Indybuell |
too much paint? | ||
| Mnbueller |
Sounds to me like you are applying too much paint too fast. Make sure you shake the can up real good, a good 3 minutes of vigerous shaking. Apply many very thin coats. Holding the can about 10" away from the surface. Apply a coat, wait 5 min Apply a coat, wait 5 min and so on until you get the coverage and depth that you want. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are" - Theodore Roosevelt too much paint? yes, my second coat looks good, I was holding the spray too close to the fairing, thus over-caking the paint | ||
| Buelltroll |
All the tips n tricks in the world wont change the fact that its a rattlecan job. Break down n buy a cheap gun n some real paint. Not only will the job last ALOT longer it will look 1000x better. | ||
| Moosestang |
What paint are you using? Some have a more even spray nozzle than others. I've not used anything other than duplicolor for awhile, but they used to have the best rattle cans for getting a good even coat with few drips. Be sure to wipe off the spray nozzle every few minutes or it will start to coagulate and cause blots. You can sand down runs or drips before clear coating, but you should be able to spray paint without runs. If it's running then you are applying to much paint to fast. | ||
| Moosestang |
We all understand that a spray gun is better, lets move on please! Not everyone wants or needs a spray gun and believe it or not, not everyone has an air compressor.  Or a place to keep all that crap. Ochoa, post some pics! (Message edited by moosestang on February 13, 2009) | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
All the tips n tricks in the world wont change the fact that its a rattlecan job. Break down n buy a cheap gun n some real paint. Not only will the job last ALOT longer it will look 1000x better.  If you can't afford to do it right the first time.... How are you going to afford to pay for it a second time? | ||
| Moosestang |
Well now that Eric the expert is here, I can find something else to do. Good day. | ||
| Moosestang |
Ochoa, try asking on buelletinboard.com next time you need help. There is less smartass, douche bags there. Eric's still there, but his douchebaggery is less widespread. You can get great results with a rattle can. It just takes practice. | ||
| Bads1 |
Moosestang, Buddy.... Listen man. People have opinions some voice them some don't. Eric voiced his and on alot of way's he not incorrect. But everyone is free to do what they like to their own property. That being said calling someone a name or in around about way calling even I smart ass or douche bag is uncalled for on any buell forum. So what your doing is no different. Also directing someone to another forum is totally disrespectful to Blake and the forum as a hole.I frequent Marty's site as well. What is there.... stay's there. Whats here.... stay's here. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
no worries, bad web is enuff forums for me to chat on dude moose, WTH is up with your profile?  | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
 oh man he is a funny guy...Good one! I REALLY must have hurt your itty bitty feelings....How easy was that.... The picture does fit you oh sooo well... (Message edited by firebolteric_ma on February 13, 2009) | ||
| Bads1 |
Eric,now you are going to stoop and call names??? Why is he a noob?? Because you were here a couple years longer.... so what. Lets it go for crying out loud. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa, no thread jacking here!!! | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Hey Dana, if he wants to jump on my sh!t for making a statement he can deal with what comes his way. If you want to call that stooping, Yes I will gladly do it. I love Family Guy!  | ||
| Bads1 |
Sorry to here that Eric. That says alot for you then,No offense is taken I hope. It just making a point. Gotta go.. time for a couple hours of work. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Moose, Please refrain from making personal attacks. It's ok to disagree with someone, but I believe your response is a little heavy handed. Also, you MUST change your profile. This is not an option. Failure to comply will result in permanent removal from the BadWeb pool. Thank you. |
