| Author | Message | ||
     Boney95 |
Whats the best way to connect a bare wire to a connector? Solder, or crimp the hell out of it? Reason I ask is that I installed front Led flashers about a month ago and I'm wondering if my "crimp to hell" method will hold. I had to snip off the male connectors on each signal and replace with the proper size connectors. It just seemed that I could not really get the new connectors to really bit down on the wire as much as I would have liked to. | ||
| Ecan95242 |
You should be fine, I crimped mine 8 months ago and have had no problems. | ||
| Got_jack |
crimp it and than heat-srink it | ||
| Dennista15 |
Sometimes I will strip the wire a little longer than needed and fold it back over to take up more room in the connector. | ||
| Miko_k |
I have made a few complete engine wiring harnesses for cars, from scratch and the best way for me is to twist wires together, then solder with plenty of flux, then heat-shrink with a piece about 1" long. I always use the double-wall heat-shrink, that has the flue on the inside, it makes a 100% waterproof & corrosion-proof connection. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Seeing how my "day" job has me building harnesses all the time, I'd say a good solder joint is best, but if you have a REAL crimp tool, they work very well too. But, not just the end of your pliers or the "crimp" part of your wire strippers...... An actual ratcheting crimp tool. They are 50 or so bucks at frys. And use the heat shrink connectors and you are good to go! Or solder and put heat shrink over it. | ||
| Cruzin2 |
Crimp it using the right connector for the right size wire and a crimping tool (not a pliers) and you won't have any problems. Some connectors need heat shink wrap and some come with it. | ||
| Boney95 |
Sh!t! Thanks fellas. We'll see if she holds, if not I'll solder and heat shrink. Sh!t, I haven't soldered or used heat shrink since I was in High School while working on my RC car. I'll have to go out and buy a soldering gun again. I love that smell! | ||
| Boney95 |
Where would I even go to buy one, and solder? | ||
| Boney95 |
Plus heat shrink, a hobby joint? Never seen them at Home Depot etc... | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Shit Adam, I didnt even pay attention to the original posters name... (you, haha) shoot me a PM to remind me, but I will send you some stuff that will help you out.......... But please PM me so I don't forget when i'm checking emails tomorrow... pretty sure I can hook you up with everything needed! -Robert www.xblights.com | ||
| Metalstorm |
Solder is the best. I often use posi lock connectors. They're better than a crimp and they are reusable. I swear by the posi-taps. You can tap into a wire with No cutting or damage to the feed wire. When I have to use crimp connectors, I usually use the insulated kind and I have one of those ratcheting specialized crimpers (like Robert was talking about) for the job because regular pliers just don't cut the mustard. They can't even lick the jar I have special crimpers for large open barrel conectors too but I don't use those types that often. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Be sure to get the right kind of solder. Try Radio Shack. | ||
| Aptbldr |
Aircraft, submarines, and public utilities (electric, telephone, CATV) rely on crimped connections. I just replaced my soldering 'kit' at Radio Shack. Inexpensive. | ||
| Eicas |
Both soldering and crimping work well when done right! Soldering makes the wire brittle, but has slightly lower resistance. A proper crimp needs a proper tool, do not crimp the hell out of it since that will distress the metal and can lead to a failure later on. In aviation we normally solder sensitive avionics and audio systems, but use "calibrated" ratchet type crimpers for the normal everyday wiring. This is partly because it is quicker and more dependable when you have the correct tools, and you can do it in the field without electricity. Do it right, and either way will work well for you. | ||
| Bombardier |
Go with the proper crimp tool, solder and then heat shrink. Connection, Corrosion and Conductivity, all these areas are covered if you do all three. My 2 cents. | ||
| Doubled |
I often use posi lock connectors. They're better than a crimp and they are reusable. I swear by the posi-taps. You can tap into a wire with No cutting or damage to the feed wire. Just an FYI with these. If you are using them for a permanent installation you will need to do some weatherproofing. I used them to install a tachometer on one of my old pickups and within six months one of the connections corroded and the truck quit running. Took it off until I got to the shop and installed a new one and filled it up with liquid electrical tape. Worked like a charm!! | ||
| Metalstorm |
Good idea with the electrical tape. I use a dab of dielectric grease. Posi-Lock has marine grade water proof connectors but they are wayyyyyy pricey. Way too much $$ for my simple need  | ||
| Tailspining |
I use Delphi Weatherproof connectors with a little dielectric grease when I upgraded my XB9R headlights to HID. They are rated to a higher temperature, ... 275 degrees, I think. It's just that I hate chasing electrical problems. I'd rather use a multimeter and only have to unplug a wire rather than cut shrink wrap or electrical tape. A little more time up front can save a lot in the end. | ||
| Teddagreek |
Go with the proper crimp tool, solder and then heat shrink. Connection, Corrosion and Conductivity, all these areas are covered if you do all three. My 2 cents. +1, I do the same thing. | ||
| Ratbuell |
+another 1. I crimp (with the right tool), then solder, then apply heatshrink over the solder joint. | ||
| Brazenbuck |
I just installed a Trailblazer and SignalMinder on my bike and used posi-locks for everything. I've had good luck with them in the past. I'd stay away from scotch lock quick taps. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Quick taps are HORRIBLE!!!!!! Stay away from them at all costs!!! | ||
| Brazenbuck |
Even the posi-locks? | ||
| Firebolt32 |
}Where would I even go to buy one, and solder? Radio Shack has irons and solder for a decent price. I use them everyday at work so I go with a Weller. They offer electric and butane. I solder all connections I make and then heat shrink. | ||
| Mmcn49 |
Below is a crimping/soldering guide that I tend to follow. Because wires on the Buell are not tinned, to prevent corrosion I think its best to crimp, solder and seal with heat shrink tubing as outlined below: Use only top quality, sleeveless lugs and connectors. Strip the conductors’ insulation so that the un-insulated conductor extends about 1/8th of an inch beyond the connector. With a crimping tool correctly sized for the wire gauge, crimp the connector onto the conductor. If properly crimped the connectors’ mechanical connection on 18 AWG wire should be able to withstand a tensile pull of 10 pounds. 16 AWG wire should withstand a 15-pound pull. Put your clean and properly tinned soldering iron tip onto the connector. Heat the connector only enough to melt the solder. After soldering place and shrink a piece of Marine Grade Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing around the connection. The heat shrink tubing relieves stress at the point where the connector is crimped and soldered onto the conductor. Soldering the connector and sealing it with adhesive heat shrink tubing creates an effective watertight barrier that prevents moisture from wicking its way up the wire. | ||
| Skinstains |
Crimp, solder, dialectric grease, and shrink. Works every time. If a Quik-Tap is anything like a Scotch-lock, they are junk ! Do it right or don't do it at all, you'll never know how good it is because everything will work fine and you will forget all about it. | ||
| Oldfz |
A properly crimped connection is the way to go. Soldering does make the wire brittle where it enters the connector and it will break eventually. You rarely see solder-type connectors on newer aircraft for this reason. If you must solder, apply a drop of liquid flux to the joint so the solder flows properly and be sure to clean the joint thoroughly with alcohol and a small brush until all the flux is gone. Flux is really corrosive. | ||
| Mmcn49 |
Soldering should be done with 60/40 rosin core electrical solder. Rosin is a non corrosive flux. Soldering and crimping both create stress points. Placing heat shrink tubing over a soldered or crimped connection, supports the wire preventing it from vibrating and breaking at the stress point. Ring and spade connectors leave the wire end exposed to atmosphere. Soldering seals the wire end minimizing or preventing corrosion. With butt connectors you can slide the heat shrink tubing over both ends of the connector. Anchor and Molex both make connectors that come with heavy duty nylon heat shrink tubing and a tough sealant. These connectors are probably the best overall. These connectors have sealed ends and cannot be soldered. They are expensive. About $0.75+ each. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Posi-taps are nothing like scotch-locks. I agree 1000% that scotch-lock is by far the worse thing you can use. If the goal is to damage the wire, the scotch-lock works great for that | ||
| Metalstorm |
Since this is mainly about connecting a wire to a connector, I will recast my vote. Proper crimp, (plus solder if using uninsulated or open barrel connectors) and shrink wrap (stiff walled internal adhesive variety) works beautifully. (Message edited by Metalstorm on February 02, 2009) | ||
| Teeps |
25 years ago I would have said soldering a wire to a terminal, or splice, was the only way to go. Now, after 25 years in an automotive engineering environment, I vote "properly crimped" connections are best. |
