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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through January 12, 2004 » Loc-Tite vs. Anti Seize « Previous Next »

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Rokoneer
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In my old school mentality I had always applied Loc-Tite to any and all bolts when reassembling pretty much anything on a motorcycle, including my XB. Now the '700lb Gorilla Torque' thread has me wondering whether this is the procedure to follow on the XB. Obviously anti-seize gets put on where the service manual states, such as the axles, but in your opinion should it also replace Loc-Tite on any bolt that is steel going into a dissimilar alloy such as aluminum?

Is 'steel to steel = Loc-Tite', and 'steel to anything else = anti seize (with gorilla torque)' the equations to use?

Whaddya think?
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Bads1
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think using Loc-Tite should be used where recomended.There different types of Loc-tite as well to use.
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Fullpower
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

oddly enough, threadlocking compounds, by keeping moisture out of the threads, do exhibit an effective antiseize function. i still recommend the service manual for specific application information.
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Marc_340
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ROKONEER TAKE THIS SIMPLE ADVICE IF IT SOMETHING
THAT MOVE USE GREASE IF IT NOT USED ANTISEIZE
AND IF YOU WANTED THE BOLT TO STAY THERE USED LOCTITE BLUE AND ITS MORE THAN ENOUGH.AND ON ALUMINUM AND STAINLESS YOU HAVE TO USED THE PRIMER FIRST.GOOD LOCK
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S2pengy
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 08:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One place I would not recommend loc-tite is countersunk fastners... If any gets between the countersink and matting surface it greatly increases the force needed to remove the fastener, something I have learned from working on aircraft for 25 years.....
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This info might be dated... as I have had it for a bit of time...

LOCTITE

loctite 242 - (blue loctite) medium strength adhesive keeps threaded assy from loosening due to vibration or load. disassembles with common tools.

loctite 290 - (green loctite) similar to 242 but low viscosity allows it to wick into assemblies

loctite 222 - (purple loctite) for screws that must be kept from loosening but may need occasional adjustments.

loctite 271 - (red loctite) permanent installation of threaded parts, a high-strength anaerobic adhesive that requires heat (450-500°) may need special tool to disassemble.

loctite 640 - retaining compound used to retain pins sleeves and studs. prevents pins from drifting out. 609 and 680 are similar.


I need to find a common source for anti-seize
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

red requires heat to remove?
Hmmm... The breather bolts that attach the air filter backing plate to the cylinders on my sporty had red loctite but I was able to remove them easily with just a 1/2 ratchet. No cheater bar.

Though now that I think about it... for the last few years I've had to use a torque wrench when I tighten the wheels on my vehicles cause I used to have a nasty habit of snapping the studs off

As a friend of mine always says: My arm isn't a torque wrench, it's a breaker bar.
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe engine heat "uncured" the locktite??

AND... I once snapped two lugs off at the base of a Jeep Cherokee... "Torque wrench... I don't need no freaking torque wrench for lug nuts!"

I now have torque wrenches from 30 inch pounds to 250 foot pounds.
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

lol That's why I use a torque wrench. So I don't break anymore studs. It got to be embarrasing going to the parts store and junkyards for the same thing all the time. I'm not torque sensitive.

You're probably right about the engine heat uncuring the loctite. I didn't even think about that.
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Steveford
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't forget that unless otherwise specified, all Buell torque values are for dry fasteners. If you use anti-seize you'll need to reduce the torque spec by 25%.
I've found that Purple Loctite works well on all of the Buell fasteners 1/4" or less, Blue is used on the remainder with Loctite PST used on male threads to seal in fluids (shift lever pivot bolt, for example).
I don't know what that stuff is that Harley uses on their bolts that come with thread locker on them but it's not the Loctite that we're discussing.
For the XB axles, bearing grease on the shaft with anti-seize on the threads works well.
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Ara
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Then of course there's thread sealant. Looks like sticky liquid paper and prevents fluids from following the threads. Useful stuff!
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Lake_bueller
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"loctite 271 - (red loctite) permanent installation of threaded parts, a high-strength anaerobic adhesive that requires heat (450-500°) may need special tool to disassemble.
"


That must be the stuff they use on the rear brake rotor. I've had nothing but trouble removing them from the tubers. Definitely need some heat to loosen those babies.
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Anyone with the name Dennis and a fan of W.C. Fields... is OK in my book!

"I almost got married once, she drove me to drink. It is the one thing I am indebted to her for!"

I hear a collective... "W.C. who?"
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A thing worth having is a thing worth cheating for.

Right Das ;)
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Metalstorm
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I remember the day I drank a glass of water.
It nearly killed me. Now gettaway kid you bother me.

Me and W.C share the same Birthday & the year he died is my phone number.
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Wycked...

If you ain't cheating... you ain't trying...

it totally applies to any type of fighting (not sparing, but real fighting)... and to racing for many who stretch the limits of the rules... and from what I have seen... it applies for many to all aspects of their life. Another quote not attributed to WC... but just as good. "Anything worth having... is worth stealing." I have seen people work harder at stealing something... than if the worked and paid for it!

Dennis...

do you have the book W.C. Fields by himself, his intended autobiography... by Ronald J. Fields his grandson? copyright 1973
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S2pengy
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I always like the statement I understand WC Fields is credited with....

I don't drink water fish f__k in it....

Instead of heat which can effect the temper of the the metal to remove stuck/loc-tited fasteners, I use a screw knocker attached to a rivet gun....
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

S2pengy...

That is another on of my favorite quotes... I miss the W.C. Fields movies on Saturdays... cable sucks... and youda thunk... they could put WC back on someplace.

"I could use a drink." would you like a glass of water Mr. Fields? "I said I was thirsty... not dirty!"

rivet gun... an aircraft tool??? splain please.. after looking at your profile I see the aircraft connection. There is a recovery sales outlet here with air rivet guns... I have been meaning to look to see if they are aircraft type... or air powered pop rivet guns. Can you give me a source for the screw knocker attachment?
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Metalstorm
Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

To quote Charlie McCarthy (the dummy)
One day Mr. Fields stood at a street corner... 43 cars waited for his nose to turn green *drum roll*
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 02:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Das I don't have the book. Its not my personal type of reading honestly. Not enough cybernetics mixed with magic if you ask me ;)
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Opto
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 05:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve said:
"Don't forget that unless otherwise specified, all Buell torque values are for dry fasteners. If you use anti-seize you'll need to reduce the torque spec by 25%."

Thanks heaps for that. And I'll remember the "unless otherwise specified" bit.
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S2pengy
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A screwknocker is a piece of hex stock machined at one end to fit in a rivet gun the other end has a square end 3/8 drive which you put an apex bit adapter on... A wrench is attached to the hex stock about half way down the lenght... Try
http://www.ustool.com type in item tp328 click on the small pic and it will give a blow and more specs..... Works a bit like a hammer type impact but because constant pressure and side force are applied works MUCH BETTER... Disc brake discs mounted to wheels are MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE.... But a compressor and rivet gun are required as well as a large selection of bits and/or allen wrench bits... Hope this helps
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Dasxb9s
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

S2pengy...

THANKS!!!

I am turning into a toolaholic. I always wanted a good complete set of tools... the last couple of years I have sold some guns that never left the vault... and started looking for bargains... and in the last couple of years I have averaged about 30 cents on the dollar of actual cost by shopping carefully. Most are Craftsman... and now I am working on "trick" tools and specialty tools. I keep missing on an Cleco aircraft variable speed 1/2 inch drill on ebay. Out of an apartment and in a house with a 700 to 800 sq ft bike shop helps this quest!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE INFO!!!
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Fuzz331
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

S2pengy
The rivet gun and screwknocker look like something I would like to have in my tool box too.
But priced the rivet gun.......
Boy, does that hurt.
I am not familiar with a rivet gun.
We have a tool room at work that has just about
everything imaginable, plus some. But we don't have a rivet gun.
I feel real ingnorant.(If you knew me, you would already know that part)
But,what else is a rivet gun good for so that I
could try to justify having one in my tool box.
Fuzz
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S2pengy
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Air hammer is the cheap alternative which may or may not have the correct ID which I believe is .401" but the air hammer is usually not adjustable.. Aircraft Mechanics consider them junk for riveting which is about all rivet guns are good for... It is an expensive part of the the tools of the trade but alot of us buy used especially from people retiring.... If you live by an airport with a aircraft manufacturier like Rockwell, Boeing or Lockheed check and see if they have a surplus store, deals can be found...
Back in the 80's a buddy worked at Columbus Ohio Airport and while I was visiting took me over to the Rockwell surplus store on a Saturday morning... Pneumatic drills, rivet guns, 90 degree drills, impacts $10.00 and up... Tons of hand tools for pennies...Chunks of aluminum 8 inch square for $0.01 a pound... I was a kid in a candy store....
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Fuzz331
Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2004 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks, I'll check into the St. Louis International area.
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Rokoneer
Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 08:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

From another forum I frequent:

Here at the GE Engine plant (military/commrcial jet engines), believe it or not, "Phillips' Milk of Magnesia" is used universally as an anti-sieze
compound during engine assembly! I discussed this with their engineers a year ago or so .... can't remember why (I'm getting old ... forgetful) they settled on this as the best product ...... maybe because a lot of anti-sieze
compound contain graphite, which is detrimental to aluminum (corrosive).
I'm sure there were other reasons. I have also heard there is a product out there that uses ceramics (and graphite free) as a constituent that is supposed to be very good. I have been using the "Phillips' Milk of Magnesia" since I picked up my first two Metros a half year ago ..... since I now have an aluminum block. I know it sounds wierd ..... by the way, I use the ORIGINAL (unflavored).
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