| Author | Message | ||
     Triumph_bonnie |
Okay this is probably something simple and cheap? Early last winter I was trying to get one last ride on my '04 XB12R in before that nasty white stuff started to fall from the sky. And half way into my evening I pulled the clutch in as I stopped at a light What was I thinking, should of run it). And all of a sudden the clutch disengaged, very similar to a cable breaking. So off to the Harley/Buell dealer the next morning to order a cable without pulling the inspection cover off. And then when the cable arrived out to replace it only to find that the cable was still very intact. Is there a simple problem or something that has a tendencey to break on these? I do hope it will be cheap and simple! | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Maybe the clutch ramp is worn? Hmmm? Not sure...sorry. I have the same bike but never this issue. I am replacing my clutch cable and ramp soon as it warms up a little again. | ||
| Triumph_bonnie |
Well today is the day here in Illinois to be doing things. Major heat wave today!!! All the way up to about 40 degrees they are saying! If there wasn't so much of the white crap everywhere it would be a good day to ride to the local pub and back. Would the ramp wear that quickly? The clutch never slipped or had any problems until, BOOM no work! That is what leads me to think something has broke. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
I wouldnt think that the ramps could go like that. Perhaps the clutch plates are the problem. They my not be disengaging. I would try and maybe re-tune the clutch first. I dont have a manual here at work, but that would be my first guess. But on the other hand it doesnt make sense that you wouldnt have felt the clutch slipping first. It sounds like something may have broke though..yes. Was it ever hard to shift? Or put into gear? | ||
| Howieshotrods |
I had something very similar to that happen to me about a month ago, except it wasn't just a bam...done. It felt like the cable had almost pulled out, and then broke after about 2 pulls on the lever. When I stopped, you could here a popping noise when you pulled the lever all the way, but it was very loose most of the way. Anyways, I took it to the dealer, apparently the "tab" or from what I got out of the service writer is that the piece on the primary cover(?) that holds the cable broke off, so it had nothing to grab onto. I didn't see exactly what broke myself so I can't explain entirely. Good luck, hope it is not too bad. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
My son in law had the exact same deal. I got him a new cable without a second thought only to find out that his cable was fine. You most likely need a new primary cover. There is a retaining boss that is easy to break off if the clutch release is adjusted improperly. What happens is that the clutch throw out mechanism bottoms out on the case before the clutch lever bottoms on the handlebar. You then have a lot of leverage on the retaining boss on the primary and it breaks. There is no real easy fix other that to replace the primary cover. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Wow, I would have never figured this to be the problem, but it makes sense. If it were bottoming out wouldnt there be excess slack in the clutch hand lever? Incorrect spacing that would show there first? Im speaking about where the cable meets the clutch hand lever. Or is it not noticed because of the way the cable adjustments are made on the cable itself? Man, you got me worried about doing my clutch now..lol. Like I said, Im personally changing my ramp and cable here pretty soon. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
I had the same problem, its the lip on the primary cover.... If you have had the dealership do all the work on it pertaining to the primary-oil-change or the clutch ramp adjustment, have them pay for the damage as because they have improperly adjusted it to break later in time. ~rule~ you tighten the adjuster screw untill it lightly bottoms, then give it a 1/4-1/2 turn clockwise.... if over-tightghtened, extranieous stress will by applied to the lip    (Message edited by ochoa0042 on January 22, 2009) (Message edited by ochoa0042 on January 22, 2009) | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Man!! That is crazy...so the nut just behind the ramp should just be put on snug after you turn the adjuster screw back? Then after the ramp and outer nut is on you then turn the screw back clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn? Tell me if Im wrong please..I'll be doing this soon.. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
From Da Book 4. using a flat tip swrewdriver, turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms. 5. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise 1/4-1/2 turn. Install lockplate and spring on adjusting screw flats. If hex lock plate does not align with recess in outer ramp, rotate adjusting screw clockwise until it aligns | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
True... But I see you have your ramp out. My question is when are you turning back the adjuster screw? Before you even put the ramp in? And the nut on the outside of the ramp and slips through the ramp, does that just seat against the Adjuster screw assembly? | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Sorry...didnt mean to Hi-jack..above is my only question..but this is all in hopes of avoiding a broken cover. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
+1 Ochoa | ||
| Skinstains |
It's really simple to do, buy a service manual and parts manual for the bike in question. There is nothing better than having a book to look at when doing any mechanical work. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Have the manual, it just wasnt super clear to me. No real specs on how tight things should be when putting it together. But realize now after reading it 6 times over that its not an exact science to assemble and adjust. |
