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Archive through January 22, 2009Ochoa004230 01-22-09  06:04 pm
         

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Pkforbes87
Posted on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ozzie.. consider contrasting your LEDs to your paint color. I have a molten orange bike, and orange LED kit, and am a little disappointed with how it turned out. I had a cheap purple kit before and it looked much better than the expensive orange LEDs that are on it now.

BTW most purple LEDs are UV, so they won't be as bright but they look nice, and I never had problems from LEO about either color. Actually had a sheriff compliment the purple LEDs at a gas station once.

Not telling you what colors to get.. just a heads up from my own experience.
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have to add that you should not buy LED's in bulk because you have to know how to wire them together.... there are three ways to set them up: series, parallel, & series-parallel.... If I can recall, series needs alot of voltage.. parallel needs alot of amps.. and series-parallel is the best choice because it balances out the two to work, but its hard to find the balance if you dont know what you are doing.... SO....

stick to buying the lights premade light bosses.. because they are already set to work well with a 12volt power-source meanwhile being as efficient as possible

:2cents:
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Got_jack
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 06:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

what company has the brightest led's
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 06:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I wouldn't be worried about LEDs drawing too much voltage or current regardless of how they're wired.

If you want easy to install, go with these guys:

Boogey Lights

The cut 'n click lights come on strips of flexible circuit board with strips of 3M adhesive already on the back. You can cut the board apart on every third LED without damaging the circuit. Wiring is a cinch and looks very clean after installation. There is a connector on the board along with every three LEDs so there is no wire splicing needed.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 06:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/419317.html?1228345608

Scroll about halfway down through the pictures to see the brightness of the orange Boogey Lights kit.
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Ozzie84
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

see the thing is that i already have some orange leds that i have from my scooter experiment.....but if dnt like it...ill end up changing it....thanx for the heads up...

pkforbes-beautiful bike
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 01:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I wouldn't be worried about LEDs drawing too much voltage or current regardless of how they're wired.

I'm not going to waste my time explaining, but obviously you dont know electronics

EDIT:
I wasted my time explaining for a good cause ; )


(Message edited by ochoa0042 on January 23, 2009)
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Ozzie84
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

it shouldnt matter....leds draw VERY little energy
i was able to do my car and scooter w/ the same leds...and i could leave them for hours without any problem
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You have a 12volt battery with 200amps; you have a load taking 12volts@10amps/hour.. the batery will continue to serve its 12volts continuously, but the amps is the 'time limit'.. if the load is running constantly, it would take the load 20hours to fully drain the batery.
Dont use my 1.5volt led as correct, or either my amps calculations..1amp is enough to kill an elephant, in battery world: we work with miliamps(mA), its only an example

Series:
if the led takes 1.5volts to power it, and you have 20led's in series.. you need 30volts to power them completely. If you only have a 12volt power source, the led's will be very underpowered and dim. Amps do not matter here, its constant.

Parallel:
if the led takes 1.5volts to power it, and you have 20led's in parallel.. you only need 1.5volts to power them completely. If you have a 12volt power source, the led's will be overpowered and blow up. Say you have the volts set up correctly....the Amps is drawn more in parallel, draining the battery quicker.

Series-Parallel: ideally the best of both worlds.
if the led takes 1.5volts to power it, you need a 8led's attached in series to power them perfectly with a 12volt source (8SET). Then wire those sets in parallel. If you have 1 8SET draining 10amps.. 2 8SET's in parallel would draw 20amps, 3 8SET's in parallel would draw 30amps.. and each 8SET draws 12volts

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on January 23, 2009)
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ochoa I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying that the numbers you're presenting are extremely exaggerated.

I'm not going to waste my time explaining, but obviously you dont know electronics
Why not take the time time to explain things to an Aviation Electronics Technician? I troubleshoot and repair communications, radar, navigation, and data link systems every day.. but these LED circuits are kickin' my ass!

108 LEDs are installed on my X1. They drop 0.111~VDC each (12VDC/108) and draw 0.07mA.
That's 0.00007 Amps. 18 gauge wire is rated at 10 Amps so overloading wire is not a hazard. Not to mention a 3A fuse between the battery and switch.

Example:
Why do some LED turn signals cause the flasher to cycle very quickly? Because the LEDs are lower resistance than a standard incandescent bulb. Since there is less resistance in the circuit, current has increased (V = I x R) and caused the flasher to cycle faster. The flasher's resistance did not change, but the increase in current caused a proportional increase in the voltage drop at the flasher. The voltage stays the same in the circuit at all times, it just may drop at different points in the circuit depending on where the resistance is.

When you're dealing with something as simple and low-demand as an LED kit there is a lot of flexibility in the way it's wired.

Ozzie - thanks for the compliment. Try not to start a fire installing your LED kit
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 07:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I was trying to get the basic info out.. and yes, when working with LED kits there is alot of flexibility because they are plug&play ready.. My whole mumbo-jumbo explanation was talking about DIY'ers buying single LED's in bulk and wiring the LED's themselves.... im lost now, whats up forbes87???

(Message edited by ochoa0042 on January 23, 2009)
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