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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through January 15, 2009 » Loud Clunking Front Brake « Previous Next »

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Arctic_firebolt
Posted on Tuesday, January 06, 2009 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Heard back from my local HD dealer, who contacted, "the motor co" on the loud clunking sound when I apply my front brake. I don't know how else to describe it but when you apply the front brake there is a clunk and the frequency is in tune with your ground speed. So, the sound slows as the bike slows.
I was told it is normal and no need for concern. ?!? Sure sounded scary to me. Also, that if you clean out the brake dust and clean the rotor it will stop for a day or two but then it will return.
I NEVER had a bike do that before and it did not do it for the first 3000 miles.
I gotta say, for me the whole Buell experience has been less than satisfactory so far. Rough idle, sputtering, very poor MPG and now a front brake that clunks
....which is perfectly normal?

Afraid to ask what's next.

(Message edited by Arctic_Firebolt on January 06, 2009)
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes a clunking is normal, has to do with the floating rotor. Sometimes it is caused by your steering head bearings needing to be retorqued.
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Boliver
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

2008 model with problems?I have a 2005 with 16k miles on it and my only problem has been a burnt out low beam headlight.My brakes make NO noise.If I were you I would take it back to the dealer,tell them to fix it and call your lawyer.No brand new bike should make noise other than the exhaust.Unless money doesn't matter to you I'd make a stand with H/D.If your bike was 5 years old I could understand a little noise.But yours is brand new,come on man,fight for what is right.Best of luck!
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It's perfectly normal........

That is to say, sub par work, and a load of BS from your local Harley dealer is just about par for the course.

The simple fact is that the brakes should make NO noise.

There are several common causes for the "clunking" , sometimes it is a combination of several factors.

1. The standard brake pads leave deposits which cause brake shudder. You can clean the rotors, but the real fix is to replace the OEM pads with Lyndall Golds, available from Sponsor American Sport Bike. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner and fine emery cloth. Keep the brake cleaner off the rims.

2. The head bearings loosen with time. They need to be tightened. See shop manual . A half hour is a long time to do this work. You can check it yourself by having a friend lean the bike over on the kick stand whilst you grab the forks and push and pull them in the direction of travel. If you feel any play at all, you need to adjust the bearings.

3. If the bolts that hold the brake caliper are loose, the brake will still work, but will make a loud clunk. Check and tighten. Do not over tighten: these are steel bolts into aluminum. Use Loctite blue.

4. Strange as it may seem, I got a similar noise when my horn bracket broke:-). The horn bracket is a pathetic design, often breaks, and when you come to a stop, the horn rattles around. Not sure is this is a Firebolt problem or restricted to Lightnings.

5. NEVER, ever go back to that dealer. There may be a good one near you. Ask around.

just my .02¢
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Swordsman
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine made a thump/clunk just as you described Arctic, and it was the brake deposits. Pretty scary when braking hard from higher speeds... it bumped pretty hard. When I switched to the Lyndalls, it went away. Look and see if you have a black smear around the center of your rotors. I wouldn't think that 3000 miles would be enough to build up yet, but I guess that might depend on how aggressive you brake. If you've got the smear, I'd bet money it's just your brake pads.

That said, if your dealer can't tell you why it's normal, I'd tell them .

Just FYI, if you switch to the Lyndalls, be prepared for an entirely different brake feel. The stock pads have a much stronger initial bite, which means you don't have to squeeze the lever quite as hard to slow down. My Lyndalls require a firmer hand, and they make a smooth buzzing sound like a dremel.

~SM
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How to avoid front rotor build-up: Use the rear brake to hold the bike at all stops. ie. When the bike comes to a complete stop, let go of the front brake.
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Swordsman
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How does that stop it? I know that's a way to keep from warping your rotors, but I don't see how it could affect the pads smearing around, which happens as you're stopping, not sitting still.

~SM
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Ourdee
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Smearing around is not all that bad. Take a pile of the stuff you are smearing around, one hot rotor, a hydraulic clamp to compress all this under heat while the rotor is stationary then release and air cool. Now instead of the ramp up and down of the smear, you get a clump solidified in on place. Like a speed bump.

Where does the stuff you smear come from? Brake pad bonding agents being heated up. Get the rotor hot and clamp a brake pad on it while standing still. Then pry it off. What did it leave behind.
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Boltrider
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Smearing around is not all that bad. Take a pile of the stuff you are smearing around, one hot rotor, a hydraulic clamp to compress all this under heat while the rotor is stationary then release and air cool. Now instead of the ramp up and down of the smear, you get a clump solidified in on place. Like a speed bump

Best explanation I've heard right there.
I normally take my hand off the brake lever at a light just to give my hand a rest. I never thought I was doing myself a favor!
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2008xb12scg
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

FYI my bike makes no clunking noise. That said, if your dealer can't tell you why it's normal, I'd tell them if it's normal then they should be able to explain it. Also if it is any of the reasons stated by Gentlemen jon or the rest, shouldn't the "highly trained" H.D. mechanic be able to explain this to you? You can take your bike to any dealer for warranty work, keep that in mind.
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Arctic_firebolt
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 04:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well THANK YOU! everyone. All of it was informative. Special hats off to Gentleman_jon, very informative and instructions I will follow.

Swordsman, I like your thinking! and don't think I won't follow that lead. You see, these guys just don't get it! This is my 4th consecutive HD purchase. Do they think I will purchase one from them now?

What started out as professional courteous service ended quite poorly. I asked for three things; the brake issue, the once again melted clutch cable and please check my ECM for updates. I was nice back and even posted it here but what I got in the end was, everything's fine now go home and a Service Rep who told me nothing else was on the paperwork and then bent the cable keeper by hand in an effort to afford an extra 1/4 of air gap.

Needles to say why I did the entire 10K service on my Night Train instead of paying them $800 to do it. AND....got 2 new tires and a set of brakes out of the deal for about a total of $350.00.

Is there a PDF version of the '08 Firebolt Service manual for sale anywhere? Gawd I love those things.

Thanx again all.

john
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Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

buell.com owners section has the manuals on there. you'll need your VI #, or VIN, but not the VIN #, which i could never find.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

Is there a PDF version of the '08 Firebolt Service manual for sale anywhere?




Nope. Sucks, and I keep asking about it, Buell had one years ago for a tuber. I wish it came on CD with the purchase of a hard copy, because half the pages in mine are covered in grease now. The owners manuals are on Buell.com, not the service ones.
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Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i stand corrected. thanks froggy
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Puddlepirate
Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine did it because one of the caliper mounting bolts came fell out. Scared the crap out of me when I found it. I used plenty of threadlocker after that.
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Stevenc150
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

[http://www.gigaboogie.com/buell/manuals/Buell-Fire bolt-Service-Manual.pdf]

'05 Buell XB Service Manual It's big so hope you have a fast conn. speed. (24 Mb)
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Arctic_firebolt
Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Thanx Steve. I am sure there are a number of common things between '05 and '08 that will make it a VERY helpful head start.

Think I will go check those caliper bolts and head bearing.
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Smiley1eye
Posted on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The clutch cable keeper was the little wire one right?
There was a recall on that and it calls for replacement with the heavy duty one that was first found on the XB12XT.
Dealer should put it on for free.
Wish I had the paperwork handy for you...
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Arctic_firebolt
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

sorry for the late response. Just tied up with the work thing, like most I suspect.

Anyway Smiley1eye, that is correct. Actually I had the cable and keeper replaced before I even got the recall, since it was broken and the cable was melted.
However, now it is melting again. The new keeper is still too close and the heat from the pipe is still melting the cable.

Thanx for the info anyway.
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