| Author | Message | ||
     Dtmb |
I tried starting my bike up yesterday and it wouldnt start. It was a cold day, around 30*. I have the battery hooked up to a tender. Fuel is in the tank, but I'm unsure how much. The low fuel light isnt on though. When I tried to start it up, the starter would click away; the engine would try to turn over with the occasional sputtering for a second. Needless to say, the bike wouldnt start. Any ideas? | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Fully charged but weak battery. Try getting a load test on the battery. Cold weather demands stronger batteries. The plugs will foul without a strong spark so you can't really figure anything out until you have confirmed the battery's strength. | ||
| Dtmb |
The battery was drained pretty low last week, would barely turn the engine over. I bought a battery tender the next day and according to its green light, the batter is fully charged. I dont know if the plugs are fouled. I'll try to check those out tomorrow before I go to work. | ||
| Sam_07 |
Take the battery out and load test it. You could have 12 volts but not enough cold cranking amps (CCA) to turn the V-twin over. | ||
| Dtmb |
I pulled the front plug and it is fouled. I didnt have the patience to pull the bad since I FUBARed the front plug wire. Whoever designed that engine must have hands the size of an eight year old's. I would like, very much, to roundhouse kick them down a flight of stairs. Maybe I'm just used to working on my cars engine, but it is very tight working conditions. Anyone in SE MI want to come to my home and teach me to the tricks to changing the plugs?  | ||
| Wml57 |
Remove the 3 screws that hold the right side cowl on to access the front plug, then use a 5/8 wrench to remove. Reverse to install. The rear plug can be accessed after removing air box cover and using an extension and swivel with the spark plug socket. To install, use a length of 3/8 rubber fuel line to start the threads into the heads. Obviously use ratchet and extension with swivel to torque. Make sure to use antisieze on the threads! It helps to have a long pair of needle nose pliers to remove and install the plug wires. I live in S.E. Michigan and wrench on bikes for a living. If you need help you can contact me here. Mark | ||
| Moosestang |
I've noticed that if it doesn't start on the first try, I can crack the throttle full open, then let go, start it again and it fired right up. Not sure what that does besides letting some air into the cylinder. Mine normally starts though, unless I changed the tune the day before. | ||
| Dtmb |
I tried giving it some throttle to start it up, it didn't work though. I cant try starting it up now. I need to get some new wires, plugs, and a some tools to get at the back plug. (Message edited by dtmb on November 26, 2008) | ||
| Moosestang |
I tried giving it some throttle to start it up, it didn't work though. I didn't give it throttle while cranking. Just cracked the throttle wide open real quick and then tried to start it again. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
You know, part of the advantage of an ECM, injectors and sensors is the start system can be controlled. Throttle input only screws up all the logarithms, well, that and floods the engine. Leave the throttle alone as long as you can. My bike nearly always requires hitting the starter twice. The first time, it will catch and stop in a second or two. The second time it will catch and keep going. |
