| Author | Message | ||
     Mmcn49 |
Decided to get rid of all of the stumbling and surging on the TT, not just most of it, by data-logging with an LC-1 WB o2 sensor. Before getting started have several questions: Already purchased an SS o2 bung for the front header from Innovate. It is not as high as the existing bung in the rear header. In fact it is quite a bit shorter. If used, the o2 sensor’s nose will stick way into the exhaust header. I’m guessing quite a bit more than half way. As the WB sensor will only be in the front header for data-logging does this make any difference? Will it restrict exhaust gas flow enough to skew the data-logging results? Does anyone know where to get a taller SS bung? If not could an extension be used to pull most of the sensor’s nose out of the gas stream? I’m planning on mounting it near the top side of the pipe, in the small straight section between the bends, a few inches from the head. I’m thinking about having it around 20 degrees off the top, (pointing away from the bike) to allow plenty of room for the sensor and cable). Any comments? Does anyone know the final drill size for the hole? I’m guessing that it should be .030-.050” larger than the bungs ID. Will have a weld shop TIG weld the bung, but I plan on doing all the prep. To prevent slag and chips from getting into the exhaust and to prevent any splatter damage I’m going to remove the header, (still have the stock muffler & exhaust valve). I’ve read quite a few comments about exhaust port gaskets. Are the gaskets Al sells at American Sport Bike better quality than the stock Buell gaskets? Is there a higher quality gasket out there? The shop manual doesn’t specify if the gaskets and retaining ring go in the exhaust ports first, or if they’re slid onto the pipe first. As the assembly drawing has the line going towards the ports I’m guessing they go into the ports first. From the comments it appears that there’s interference fit between the gasket and exhaust port. Several have suggested freezing the gaskets and heating the exhaust ports with a torch or heat gun. Will doing this ensure an easy sliding fit? You can get a lot more shrinkage with 90% isopropyl alcohol and dry ice. I do not know what the gaskets are made of, but can they withstand a dry ice bath? What about installing the pipe into the exhaust ports. Should the ports and gaskets be heated with a heat gun for a better sliding fit? Thank you for taking the time to read all this and answering any questions that you can. | ||
| Jos51700 |
You think too much. Shove the gasket, room temp, into the port hole on the head (also room temp). The rings and retainers stay on the header. 'Tis easy! Also, have your welding shop leaktest your pipe before they give it back. Leaky O2 fitting welds screw with your bike bad! | ||
| Jos51700 |
Also, check your local muffler shop. Most have a wide variety of O2 bungs and plugs. The gaskets Al sells are, to my knowledge, OE Buell/HD gaskets. Don't worry about slag/spatter, Tig welding doesn't do that. Mimic the O2 mounting/location on the rear header, and you'll be fine. (Message edited by jos51700 on November 21, 2008) | ||
| Htekwo |
I use the Innovate W/Bs on my cars. Your concern should not be that the Sensor extends into the exhaust stream, but that having it get too hot can cause it to read inaccurately and decrease it's life span. Innovate sells a heatsink bung extension that would serve both your needs 1) extending the sensor out of the exhaust stream 2)keeping the sensor from overheating. Checkout their website for the heatsink. | ||
| Id073897 |
Your concern should not be that the Sensor extends into the exhaust stream, but that having it get too hot can cause it to read inaccurately and decrease it's life span http://www.not2fast.com/instrumentation/Y258K01005 e03mar21eng.pdf http://www.boschmotorsandcontrols.co.uk/sensoren/s ensoren.pdf#page=58 |
