| Author | Message | ||
     H2owerker |
Is it common to destroy 20% of the bolts on a XB due to strippage? I'm getting the impression that the PO didn't have any confidence in their mechanical abilities and used copious amounts of the stuff to compensate. It was even used on the 3 bolts holding the air scoop on. How tough will it be to get new specialty bolts from a dealer? I can get most of them through an industrial supplier so that's not an issue. I'm beginning to think that repairing a few cosmetic trouble spots may not be worth the trouble of tearing the bike down. | ||
| Dogdaze |
Replacement bolts are easily picked up or ordered thru the dealer. I changed out many of mine due to corrosion. It gets pricey if you're replacing many of them, and you might consider a stainless steel replacement set like this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&rd=1&item=260289553043&ih=016&sspagename=ST RK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem= $66 for 210 pieces - I would have gone this route for a complete change out, had I known about this before buying bolts peicemeal thru the dealer. ps If you're having trouble getting loctited bolts out, place a soldering iron on the bolt head to loosen things up | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I've twisted a handful of loctited bolts in half before, but never lost any hardware due to it vibrating loose. From now on loctite will not be used when I work on mine. | ||
| Prowler |
I always heat the bike up (either by running it or a blow dryer to the area in question) so soften up the loc-tite prior to trying to loosen up loc-tite'd bolts. Helps a lot for removal as that red loc-tite is nasty stuff when hard. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
i thought the fasteners on the xb's were already stainless? | ||
| Figitt |
You guys complain about red locktite, but im telling you, Ive worked on Harley's and Sportster's for 15 years now, and Buell's since 94, and this product is seriously important in keeping things on the bike and where they belong. Using proper, good quality tools is important too. Ive seen engine cover bolts come out, tag brackets and turn signals fall off, and lets not forget the rocker box bolts. IF you dont use some means to keep bolts on this bike other than the torque specs, you will loose them ..... unless of course you ride the bike 20 miles a year and never rev it above 3k. | ||
| H2owerker |
As unhappy as I am w/ the amount/type of loc-tite that was used, I'll be using their product when I put things back together. Although I think I'll be using 222 so things will not break/strip if I need to remove them again. I hope that it will be strong enough to keep everything in place. And I may opt for a higher strength (2422 medium strength/high temperature) product in a few areas. As an industrial mechanic I've never liked the "red" products from Loc-Tite. Their high initial sheer strength and low friction are OK on larger bolts (1/2"+ ). But aren't suited for smaller fasteners (3/8"- ). I don't mind having to work to get the bolts un-threaded if everything remains in good condition. But when the heads are striping, bolts are breaking, and tools are being damaged. (and I am using professional grade tools) There's something wrong... Dogdaze/Prowler I'll make an attempt to heat things up. But it's about 40* in my garage and I don't think I can get them warm enough to make a difference. | ||
| H2owerker |
Well I couldn't heat things up enough to get that bolt out. So I did the next best thing... I got a few of my favorite tools together, (don't feel left out if you weren't called) hammer, punch, and a manual impact. Got myself warmed up using the punch/hammer to re-shape the bolt head, and then began to wail away on the impact till the bolt began to turn. It really felt good to swing the hammer and I continued using it when I felt it was necessary. |
