| Author | Message | |||
     Ochoa0042 |
.... because I opened the airbox today and its filthy.... but I dont want to have these hoses snaking all through my bike to their final resting place re-routing the oil-drop-off.... so can I have the catch can thing-a-ma-jig and keep it in the airbox? Thus, preventing the oil from puking into the air filter by it doing-so into the catch-can which is inside of the airbox.... ya following me here? + are there any other alternatives? | |||
| Poppinsexz |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/255661.html Check out this thread | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
hmmm, this is going to take some engineering.... it looks like most of the modds were on tubers.... off the top of my head I cant think of a well hidden spot thats also easily accessible for a 12R | |||
| Nillaice |
i once saw one run all the way down into the chin faring.... if you got an older xb you could hide in in the intake snorkel!  now could somebody please figger out how to do this so's i can copy your idea and mod my '03 without stressing my brain.  | |||
| Acejay |
mate you have to put in a very easily accessible place because they need to be emptied often, every tank of petrol is a good habit to get into, that way you dont forget it. mine has hardly been draining anything at all recently, which i thought was odd, but just put it down to the weather changing, getting warmer etc. until i started it the other day and saw it blow a pile of snot out of the vent hose onto the ground. so i took the whole catch can off and opened it, the whole thing was full of what looked like custard, about the same consistancy and colour, and too thick to drain out!!! usually i'll take the whole thing off periodically just to check nothing is blocked up or whatever, guess i'll be doing that more often now. | |||
| Poppinsexz |
Here is what I did, First I connected the hoses with a T and ran them out the front of the bike  The hose ran down to a catch can I got from American Sport Bike kinda pricy but looks good  And I hooked a breather to the back of the can  | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
So would this be the reason why (when I checked my oil level one day)that the oil level was low? Or should I be checking the oil lines and such for leaks? | |||
| Aptbldr |
Alternative, route crankcase breather to port of exhaust system: <http://www.eurospares.com/sucker.htm>. Additionally alternate, referenced discussion grants that opening crankcase to atmosphere adds load, reducing power delivered. | |||
| Firebolt32 |
Oil burns, so over time you will get a little low. If it's ridiculously low then yes check the lines. I spent about $40 on parts to make my own. Hoses, clamps, petcock and breather. I'll snap a few pics today and post what I've done. | |||
| Bombardier |
Run the bike and then check the oil. Even if you only run it for a few seconds the oil level will rise to the correct level. On some the check valve does not work 100% and lets oil back into the dry sumped area. If you have an obvious oil leak of any real quantity I would check it first just to see that there is a little on the stick. | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Have an 07 TT and didn't use a catch can. I removed the stock vapor lines and replaced them with 3/8" USCG approved, A-1 rated marine fuel hose. Connected a third hose and tee to the two vent lines. Ran the third line back next to the transmission vent hose. Brought it back and out the left side of the bike putting a downward vertical radius bend in the hose. Installed a Pneumatic Exhaust Muffler in the hose, (the exhaust muffler is really a sintered bronze filter). http://www.adsens.net/WebImages/BM%20(PNEUMATIC%20EXHAUST%20MUFFLER)%20PAGE%201.pdf I slid a 3 inch length of soft 5/8” or ¾” hose over the muffler and the end of the 3/8” hose. Slid a 3/8” hose into the other end of 5/8” or ¾” hose and secured them together with narrow wire ties. Ran the 3/8” hose down and had it come out in back of the gear shift. The hose end is aimed at, and is about 2 or 3” from the muffler, just in front of the outlet pipe. The reason for using A-1 hose is that it is fairly stiff, is impervious to almost everything and will last a long time. The hose is barely noticeable and with an angle end cut almost looks stock. It works great, water and oil is blown onto the muffler where it’s burned off. There is a small oily spot on the muffler but again it isn’t all that noticeable. When first installed I verified that no oil was blowing out onto the rear break. | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
that sounds interesting, I was a bit blown away by the explanation and cant quite get it all.... picks? | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Will try to take some picks this weekend. | |||
| Firebolt32 |
Sorry I haven't got them pics yet. It's been a hell of a week so far. My Lab has been in and out of the Vet's office since Sunday. I'll try to get them together tonight if Guiness isn't having any issues. Mmcn49 has explained it pretty well. You'd be amazed that crap you catch in the petcock which would normally get sucked back into the bike. Just make sure you get a petcock without a drip valve. I wasn't paying attention when I bought mine. I rode to Daytona and when I got there I had spooge all over my boots. I filled the drip valve with Gorilla Glue and it's fine now. | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
mmk, I must have not had my word compensation going on in the noggin.... so you have the metal hose spitting the spooge into the exhaust to where it burns away, great idea Im going to pick up this one, sounds like a solid plan so what would be the best solution.... a lager or small diameter hose? would a small diameter hose constrict or speed-up the fluids? and would a larger hose give more flow but not have pressure to shoot it out? and where is your breather located? And where does the Pneumatic contraption get its 'juice' to for its pneumatics thrust, if it does so? (Message edited by ochoa0042 on November 05, 2008) | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Ochoa, mmk, I must have not had my word compensation going on in the noggin.... I'm guessing your questions are for me. so you have the metal hose spitting the spooge into the exhaust to where it burns away, No. I used rubber marine fuel hose with fabric reinforcing braid and a USCG, (Coast Guard) A-1 rating, (not metal tube). 3/8" A-1 marine fuel hose is little thicker and stiffer than standard fuel hose. That is important as the hose end will not flop around in the wind. The hose end is about 2 inches from the muffler. It spits onto the muffler, not into the exhaust. so what would be the best solution.... a lager or small diameter hose? 3/8" seems to be perfect. It's about the same diameter as the stock hoses. Back pressure is a little higher as you're teeing two hoses into one, increasing hose length by 3 or so feet plus venting through a filter. and where is your breather located In the 3/8" hose, about 12 to 18" from the hose end. The plumbing goes like this: Breather hoses below air box --> Tee --> 3/8" hose --> Hose Barb Fitting-Filter --> Muffler --> 3/8" hose, (3/4" sleeve over muffler). The two breather hoses are connected to a tee. The third port on the tee is connected to the 3/8" hose. The filter is connected to the other end of the first hose with a hose barb fitting. Next I slid a length of larger hose, over the filter and onto the 3/8" hose securing it with a wire tie. I slid another length of 3/8" hose into the other end of the larger hose, almost to the filter and secured it with another tie wrap. }And where does the Pneumatic contraption get its 'juice' to for its pneumatics thrust, if it does so? The pneumatic contraption is a filter. It is usually used as a muffler in pneumatic systems and is called a pneumatic exhaust muffler. It only filters and doesn't use any juice. | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Here is a picture of the exhaust muffler, (filter).
| |||
| Wrecked |
What is the purpose of the filter if you are essentially venting to atmosphere? (Message edited by wrecked on November 05, 2008) | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
yea, i have no clue what that cork-looking-thingy is?  i mean it has a title of what it is, but what is it? (Message edited by ochoa0042 on November 05, 2008) | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Pistons go down, then they go up. When they go down, crankcase pressure increases and our air boxes get spray painted with water and oil. When they go up, a partial vacuum is created pulling air, (dirty air) into the crankcase through the breather hoses. In the stock arrangement the air filter prevents any dirt from being drawn into the engine, the little exhaust filter does the same thing. | |||
| Mmcn49 |
Oocha It is a filter. Specifically it is a sintered bronze filter and is used as an exhaust muffler on pneumatic equipment. It is small, cheap, easy to use and install. It may be best if you installed a catch can instead. | |||
| Ochoa0042 |
well do you have some picks? | |||
| Mmcn49 |
This weekend. | |||
| Wrecked |
Ah, so the filter is there to prevent sucking in debris. I'm not sure why I didn't get that initially. How often would you have to service the filter? | |||
| Mikef5000 |
I'd be hesitant to do that (the little filter in the tube method) because I've found the same crap this guy found: mine has hardly been draining anything at all recently, which i thought was odd, but just put it down to the weather changing, getting warmer etc. until i started it the other day and saw it blow a pile of snot out of the vent hose onto the ground. so i took the whole catch can off and opened it, the whole thing was full of what looked like custard, about the same consistancy and colour, and too thick to drain out!!! And I think that THICK crap is just going to clog up you lines at that filter. You're going to get some serious issues when your breather lines get completely stopped up. | |||
| Cowtown |
Here’s how I ran the breathers. I turned the valves so they are pointed at each other along the right side of the frame. I ran a hose between them with a T in the middle pointing down. I cut just enough hose to use as a connector to attach another T with the ends pointing down and forward. I ran a clear hose down a couple of inches past the frame so I can see when any oil collects and plugged it. I ran another hose forward and up over the rocker cover following the curve of the frame along the front and then back along the left side of the frame. I attached a crankcase filter behind the coil. | |||
| Mmcn49 |
I bought the bike last spring and made the breather line change when I took the air box off and saw all the oil. This was before the 1000 mile service. The bike now has 6400 miles on it with no problems. If you put your fingers at the hose end when the bike is idling, you can feel air pulsing out. After riding you can see a wet spot on the muffler. One time I saw a load of spooge on the muffler that looked like white cotton candy and was about 1/4 cup in size. The filter is about a foot or so from the hose end. I think much of the dirt that’s sucked in will end up on the hose wall and not even reach the filter. You’re correct to worry about the filter clogging up, but that doesn’t appear to be happening. It’s pretty easy to verify that it’s not plugged just by observation. This has worked out so well that I’m keeping it. | |||
| Werewulf |
with the stock set-up, you get a little oil mist inside the air-box... when you wipe it away with a rag, its oil that is black with dirt that has by-passed your air filter element... this same dirt or sand would be going down your engine onto your enternal engine parts, if it wasnt trapped in the mist... so it may not be pretty, but trapping dirt is not a bad thing...i still like stock.. (Message edited by werewulf on November 06, 2008) | |||
| Mmcn49 |
K&N does the same thing. | |||
| Werewulf |
yep, k&n keeps out particles the size of small birds.... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm (Message edited by werewulf on November 06, 2008) |
Pneumatic Exhaust Muffler