| Author | Message | ||
     Pinball |
I was riding along and the bike`s power cut in half,no warning lights. I was able to limp home and immediately changed the plugs and wires, cause the one wire was corroded. I took it for a test ride and it was better ,but not right. It finally died altogether. Now there is no spark at all. I changed out the ecm to two other stock ones and there is still no spark. I then unplugged everything and then plugged them back in and did the "wiggle test" everywhere, and cannot find anything wrong with the wires. Any input would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Newbolt |
Check the coil and battery connections. I had a similar issue the other day on the Harley. It was a battery cable. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
Maybe a bad coil. | ||
| Jimduncan69 |
does it just click when you hit the starter? it might be your voltage regulator. | ||
| Hammer71 |
Word on the regulator/battery combination. | ||
| Pinball |
I tried a new coil and no effect!The battery charger has been on all week and battery is good. The starter works fine . Engine turns over ,just no spark. Any other ideas? | ||
| Moosestang |
Do you know for a fact there is no spark or are you assuming no spark because the bike doesn't start? | ||
| Pinball |
I`ve checked the plugs with them out of the engine. I tried other plugs as well, to no avail. | ||
| Glitch |
How'd you check them out of the engine? | ||
| Pinball |
The coil was connected to engine ,I pulled the plugs and reconnected the plug wires,then turned the engine over with the plug tip touching ground on the engine. I hope I was doing this right! | ||
| Hogs |
Check to see if power is going to the coil...If not... then back track from there... BTW, what ya did grounding out the plugs should be okay, I don`t think there wd. be harm to the ECM if one does it this way,However I`m not 100 Percent sure on that with the Buell`s Ecm, Perhaps others can chime in on that as well as other ideals... Always ,Good to have these posts started and then as long as when it gets FiX.. you come in and say what it was, for all to know  (Message edited by hogs on November 04, 2008) (Message edited by hogs on November 04, 2008) | ||
| Pinball |
Yes there is power to the center wire to the coil. | ||
| Hogs |
Well, someone correct me if I am wrong.... IF you have power to the coil,should there not be another wire to the coil or same wire??? that gets it signal from the ECM or sensor in the cone to make the coil fire? to give spark,while hitting the start button,It seems the power goes to the kill switch and then to the coil/starer relay is all ok...... | ||
| Pinball |
There is a constant power to the coil, and then there are two other wires that send a signal to the coil to tell it to spark at each cylinder.(three wires at the coil). It must not be getting a signal from the ecm for some reason . | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
if you need a voltage regulator, i have a spare one  | ||
| Pinball |
How can I check if it is the voltage regulator? | ||
| Iamarchangel |
First, have you got the manual? Following the diagnostics for a non-starting bike is easier if you have the book to guide you. Second, the spark plug test is ok, it's basically what the manual tells you to do. Seeing as it broke down in stages, I'd be looking at wiring. You've already replaced it so the connector probably is good. Can you check the wires from the coil connector to the harness? The next easiest to see would be the wiring at the relays. I know you don't have a R but on mine, those wires are really bent over and there was some wear on them. (I think it's the Green/Yellow wire you have to check.) Have you done a load test on the battery? Probably not the issue, but a possibility. You need to rule that out. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Is there a timing cup like the tubers have as I have had 3 go out on various S-2's. They break and no longer turn making any spark. | ||
| Pinball |
I have a manual, it is a little hard to follow but it is helping. The battery was and is fully charged. I visually checked all wires ,but this weekend I`ll be doing continuity tests to the ecm. The manual leads me to the cam position sensor. Could this be faulty and cause NO Spark?? | ||
| Hogs |
If you are talking about the Sensor Pickup in the cam cover yes...that is what sends a signal to the coil to spark as far as I can think of....Not sure how ya test it though... MAy be in your manual... Its not battery related or Voltage reg. related as you said the bike turns over good etc etc.. | ||
| Hogs |
I`m not right up on what signals the coil to fire the plugs, If its that cam sensor or and combination with the ecm... But I wd. think its the cam sensor that signals the coil when to fire the plugs... it is a dual fire system so both plugs fire at the same time.... Perhaps others that know better will chime in... Don`t have a manual in front of me, But there should be a wire to the coil providing power and a signal wire I wd. think coming from the Cam sensor itself, unless it goes to the ecm and then from there to the coil to fire them...Like I said maybe others can explain this better... (Message edited by hogs on November 05, 2008) | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Load test would be a specific test. How new is your battery? If you're confident about your battery, the next thing in the manual is to turn the key with the engine switch to on. Place transmission in neutral. Turn ignition key switch ON and set engine stop switch to RUN. Did fuel pump run 2-3 seconds and check engine lamp illuminate? I'm sort of working through the chart 4-11 in my manual. Did you look for codes? | ||
| Pinball |
Battery is good. The pump will run and the engine light comes on ,then goes out after 4 seconds like it is suppose to. There are no "current" codes , I`m not sure about the history, if I can retrieve those codes through the check engine light. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
i tried to follow the manual with a miltimeters and i just got confused.... and there is the 'load tester' (if i can recall) that is a specialty piece of electronics.... some but not too much luck there | ||
| Iamarchangel |
It looks like the check engine light will give historic codes. The next test on the diagnostic goes to fuel pump pressure test, then it goes to the plugs. You probably don't have the gauges for the fuel pressure and you've already checked the plugs and the coil. From here you need the breakout box and multimeters. Or you can follow the chart as it tells you to check the wires and connectors. The first wire is the green/yellow wire (in my manual) and then it goes to each connector. You're going to have to do that. At this point the diagnostics also lead to taking things apart. It might be a plan to take it to shop just to save time. It shouldn't be an hours labour to get the diagnostic done and then you can figure out if you can do it or not. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Check your ignition pickup in the cam cover. The pickups i've seen(Sportsters mostly), if it's bad you should be able to see it visibly, like fluid oozing out of it or looks like it got really hot and started to warp or deform a little. (Message edited by Wantxbr on November 08, 2008) | ||
| Pinball |
Well ,it looks like no spark is the least of my problems ! I finally found the problem but it goes much deeper. The cam sensor was faulty, well actually destroyed! The rotor looks to have overheated and warped ,destroying the sensor in the process. But upon further inspection I have found plastic connectors above the engine falling apart from excess heat and also metal pieces in the oil,possibly a failed bearing or two. So it looks like a complete rebuild this winter. Thanks for all the input. I might have found it eventually, but you guy`s made it easier to deal with. +++ jpeg +++ 412316 +++ +++  | ||
| Bombardier |
Maybe a main bearing and the play allowed the pickup to hit the rotor? |
