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Wardamneagle
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So when i bought my bike the high beams didn't work. No biggie. I just replaced the fuse and i was good....until 2 days later the fuse burnt our again. What could be causing this?
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the ground wires on the front of the steering neck behind the headlamps. Check in fly screen for loose plug to lights, filament in hi beam bulb, then start chasing wires for worn insulation and such.
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Skinstains
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is it the right size fuse ?
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

talking about fuses, would you say its bad to use a bigger fuse, say jumping for a 10 to a 15...?
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Yardsale
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yes that is bad, especially when the correct size fuse blows without knowing the cause. the size of the fuse was designed for that circuit for a reason. if the fault is large enough to blow a 10 amp fuse but not bad enough to blown a 15 amp one...that would result in damage to the circuit it should have been protecting resulting in a far worse repair bill...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the switchgear, too (high beam switch on L handlebar). Could be an intermittent-pinch on the wire, jumping to ground.

If you have a partial overload - say, 12 amps - on a 10 amp circuit, it'll pop the 10A fuse. If you put in a 15A fuse, it'll allow the 12 amps of current to go through the circuit, possibly (probably) damaging other things in the circuit like the wires, connectors, switch, bulb, or reflector housing. Always use the right size fuse.
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Sam_07
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If your fuse is blowing you have a short. Before replacing parts, you need to check your wiring for continuity using a Dvom.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If your fuse is blowing you have a short.

That's not entirely accurate.

If it pops the *instant* you power the circuit, yes...it's a dead short. If it takes a while to pop, the circuit has too much draw, either from a bulb wattage that's too high (100w bulb in a circuit designed for 55w), or a wire with too much resistance due to wear/breakage, or a loose connection that's arc-ing and causing excessive amp draw or an intermittent (wire-wiggle) issue.

A fuse is designed to be the weak link, to tell you there is "a" problem and protect the rest of the hardware in the circuit from damage. It will never tell you "what" the problem is; that's up to you, some time, and a good meter : )
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Wardamneagle
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for your help guys. I will be trying to asses the problem when i get home today
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Andymnelson
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There's a problem with your asses now too??? I'd get that checked out ASAP for sure. Unless of course you meant assess... ; )
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