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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through October 28, 2008 » Complete engine teardown and rebuild. 04 model. « Previous Next »

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Xl_cheese
Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm capable of doing this, but have never done it so I'm trying to gather info on what I'll need. Sux that I need to do this since the engine runs like a champ with 17k.

I'm basically trying to fix this:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/386201.html?1218776868

What items will I need to do a complete rebuild? Any worn items I'll replace as needed, but in general what do I need?

**COMPLETE ENGINE GASKET & SEAL SET(#17058-02)
** Drop the heads off to have a valve job.
** Upgraded oil pump drive gear.

Can ya'll think of any bonus things I should add while I"m in there? new pistons, etc?


And I'll say right now I'll be beet red in the face if I go through all this and still have crappy shifting...
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Mr2shim
Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

maybe i'm just an idiot, but why are you going to do a complete engine rebuild for a transmission problem?
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Xl_cheese
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

cause I have to pull the cases apart to get to the tranny.
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M1combat
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 12:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well... I'd replace the crank and rods and put in the '08 parts. It's spendy though.


Anyhow...

The primary fluid level is of great importance.

Drain the primary. While the plug is out make sure you lift the bike off the stand and get every last drop out that you can. Then pour in about 95% of a quart. Take a look in the service manual and take note of where the fluid should be. set the level to EXACTLY that spot when the bike is level. It's hard to see and I don't know why it makes a difference even when it's 2mm one way or the other but it does.

The XB's need to be shifted like you mean it.

I'd just hate to see you pull the motor apart and have the same issue afterwards.


One more thing...


I had my heads mildly ported (just cleaned up really... they got rid of the casting marks and put a proper finish in the ports (NOT POLISHED)) and went to 10.5:1 compression when I did mine (along with the '08 crank, rods and compensating sprocket). The extra power is noticeable but nothing to write home about. I had to add some fuel from about 2500 up at WOT because it started pinging. I only mention that as it is a confirmation that the power went in the right direction.

PM me if you want details.

I also had the cylinders honed .015" over I think. Came out to 1213cc.

(Message edited by m1combat on October 21, 2008)
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Point_doc
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 01:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Xl_cheese, I hope this info will help...



You will need a minimum of two persons, three would be better; two for lifting and one to watch.

Prepare the bike as if you were going to rotate the motor. Disconnect the battery. Remove the air box.

You need to completely remove the coil and disconnect the rear brake from the tail section and frame. The rear brake assembly needs to stay with the rear swing arm. I found the hardest part of this entire procedure is removing the rear brake reservoir.

The throttle cables will need to be removed from the throttle body. The clutch cable I removed from the lever.

The starter wire will need to be removed along with other wires that come from the timing area which includes the oil pressure sensor wire. You will have to remove the plastic belt cover for this. You need to disconnect the metal oil line from the pump.

There are miscellaneous wires that will need disconnected from the top of the motor; temp. and air sensor wire. Wires around the starter area and the timing area will have to be disconnected.

There is a bolt that connects the frame to the motor and I think it is the right side of the bike that will allow you access to the head of the bolt. If this is the case, then you will need to remove that part of the frame that the foot peg and heel guard is attached to. Disconnect the rear shock.

If you follow the wire loom from the left front of the bike, towards the very back of the frame you will find a metal band that secures the wire loom to the frame; one end of this band will have to pulled out of the frame in order to allow you to remove the transmission vent hose and there may be a wire also not sure. Also cut the plastic strap tie that secures the transmission vent hose to the rear shock.

Make sure the engine is blocked up; during the removal of the frame you may bump the motor and cause it to tilt and fall.

Before you remove, take your time and do a thorough inspection to ensure you have not missed anything. I believe this list is accurate, but I still may have left out an item or two.

Have one person in the front and one in the back and as you lift have another walking and looking for any problems.

The project is not hard, just take your time.
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Xl_cheese
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the tips!

I thought about the 08 crank. It may be kind of $. We'll see.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Never done a Buell engine myself, but I always recommend replacing the stock gaskets with seals and gaskets from James Gaskets.

This company exists for the sole purpose of providing higher quality seals and gaskets for Harleys, and so Buell owners can benefit.

Get the info at their web site:

http://www.jamesgaskets.com/

They have distributor who gets the parts to you by priority mail in a couple of days. Name of Mike. Phone:307 367 4398

Nothing worse than taking a motor apart just because a five dollar gasket failed, is there?
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Firemanjim
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Or you can leave forks on and remove engine from frame and swingarm, did it on a Uly and we could still move the carcass around the shop.
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Spatten1
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had to do it:

1) You can order a gasket set from Cometic on their website, it may save you money.

2) The service manual is great, use it

3) They specify a shitload of special tools in the manual.
I got some flat aluminum at Home Depot and doubled it up for the primary locking tool.
The manual is a little confusing- You don't have to dissasemble the clutch, which takes a special tool. Just remove it in one piece.
I got it down to bare cases and read about two more special tools needed, and just brought the damn engine to someone with the proper tools to split the cases and pull the drivegear. I might have been able to make something, but was getting fed up at that point. I think Reepicheap built a tool to pull the drive gear, but can't remember for sure.

I wish I could remember more, but it's been a couple of years.

I pulled the engine myself, except lifting the engine from the jack to the work bench. That engine is HEAVY, I couldn't budge it myself.

All in all it goes pretty well with the manual. Good luck buddy, and PM me if you have any questions that I might be able to help you with.











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Spatten1
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oh yeah, you'll need some unusually large sockets for the pulley and the primary. You will also need a 250 ft/lb torque wrench to put the primary back on.
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Point_doc
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nice separation; what did you use to lower and raise the motor? Was it a standard floor jack?

+1 for the Cometics...

I bought the special tool (American Sport Bike 5493 - Clutch Spring Compressor Tool) for the clutch disassembly and the item did not work as advertised! I ended up using two Kant-Twist clamps to compress the spring for disassembly and reassembly. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM




I found Harbor Freight has a nice/affordable set of 1/2" drive impact sockets for this job. http://www.harborfreight.com/

(Message edited by point_doc on October 22, 2008)
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Xl_cheese
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So the Cometics gaskets are better than Buell OEM?
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Spatten1
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nice separation; what did you use to lower and raise the motor? Was it a standard floor jack?

Thanks man. I used one of those $50 "motorcycle/ATV jacks" from Pep Boys. You can see it behind the bike in the middle picture, it's red.

I hoisted the bike higher with the tie straps attached to a hook on the ceiling and rolled the engine right out of the chassis over to the bench.
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Point_doc
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Kevin Drum recommended Cometic gaskets to me and I have not regretted following his suggestion.

Cometics are supposedly re-usable. So maybe during your assembly you may have to take the head back off for any reason, you can use the same gasket. The OEM gasket after being compressed from the torque will have to be replaced with a fresh gasket, plus OEM's seem to weep early! My Cometics are clean.

Also you can specify the thickness of the gaskets. Maybe you would like to put thinner gaskets on the base and head, with Cometics you can.



(Message edited by point_doc on October 22, 2008)
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Spatten1
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So the Cometics gaskets are better than Buell OEM?

I don't know if they are better, but they make a high quality product. I've used their gaskets on Japanese bikes for nearly 20 years.

Generally they can save you money without sacrificing quality.
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Jdubxb
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Fireman, what's holding the swingarm to the frame when the motor's out (to allow the chassis to be moved about)? I'm about to tackle this myself. Just bought an engine hoist so I can do this myself. I've lifted the front end from the garage rafters before, but I don't feel comfortable subjecting those members to much more weight.
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