| Author | Message | ||
     Mr2shim |
Well, I just got back home from a more eventful ride than I had planned. I was just crusing like normal when all the sudden the bike backfires a couple times and I loose all power. I try to give it some more throttle but no go. I just pulled the clutch and coasted to the side of the road. I'm wondering if it's the stator because the check engine light and neutral light were on but very very dim. Once I turned the key off and back on, no lights or anything. I just tried it again, this time the lights came on and everything like normal but the starter just clicks and bike dies. I'm hoping it's just the voltage regulator but I'm not sure, it happened all the sudden no signs of stator going bad like when an alternator goes bad on a car the battery light comes on first. Is this normally how bike's stators go bad? No warning? Thanks. | ||
| New12r |
Sound like a potential charging problem. Check battery cables for tightness first. Then check good ole Connector 77. From there test the stator as outlined in the manual, if the stator tests good replace the VR. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
+1 Check battery cables first. This very thing happened to me once, it was the positive cable. | ||
| Aeholton |
Happened to me around 1.5 years ago...it was the stator. Happened last week on the way to Buelltoberfest...it was the voltage regulator. Have the battery tested for free at your local auto parts store before doing anything else, though. (Message edited by aeholton on October 10, 2008) | ||
| Mr2shim |
yea. I didn't even have time to check the battery posts. as soon as I got home I posted this and left for work. im on my good ol smart phone now. thanks for the tips. ill be working on it first thing in the morning. really hoping its just the regulator. dealer wants 340 to replace the stator as I don't have the special tools needed to replace it and it seems like a big PITA to do. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Mr2shim- The engine light doesn't come on when the battery is not being charged; it's not like a car. You wind up running it until the battery is so low that it won't fire the ignition and injectors and the bike dies. It's a good idea to install an aftermarket voltage meter on the bike; that way you know there's a problem before the battery gets too low. Several of us have used this single LED display one from Custom Dynamics: http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm#LED_Battery_Gauge_with_Remote_Flush_Panel_Mount_LED For ~$25, you can't beat it. It pays to be really methodical when troubleshooting electrical problems. Charge the battery and get it checked. Reinstall it and make sure the connections are tight. Take a voltmeter and see if it's charging with the bike running. If not, find and check the condition of the 77 connector. Repair/replace if required. If the 77 connector is OK, check the VR and the stator per the shop manual. If it turns out to be necessary, stator replacement is not that bad; it's a ~2 hour job. I'm sure you could find a Badwebber (or 3 or 4) that'd be willing to help you do it. I'd offer to help but you're at the other end of the state from me. I'll be glad to loan you the crankshaft locking tool; you can borrow a torque wrench from your local Autozone for free. BTW- check in at the SC Buell Riders Forum at: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/130123.html? (Message edited by Hughlysses on October 10, 2008) | ||
| Mr2shim |
I'm stumped. This morning I charged the battery. Tighten everything back down, turn the key the neutral light and op light came on but VERY dim, so I flip the run switch on and the lights go off. Throw the battery back on the charger to see that it is already fully charged. Turn the key again this time. nothing, no lights, no sweep.. nada... I'm confused.  (Message edited by mr2shim on October 11, 2008) | ||
| Hughlysses |
Mr2shim- Take the battery to Advance or Autozone or whereever and get them to load test it. Sometimes a battery will indicate it's fully charged like that but will dead-short under a load. I think you're due for a new battery. | ||
| Guell |
Yeah, sounds like its definently your battery. when i had my mr2, the old battery i could charge fully and it wouldnt do shiat when i would slap it in the car. | ||
| Mr2shim |
I'm thinking it's both. Just checked the resistance on connector 46's 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 sockets. The manual says it should be between .01-.03 ohms I got 0.00  (Message edited by mr2shim on October 11, 2008) | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Going with Hughlysses on this one. Load test the battery before going any further. | ||
| Mr2shim |
I don't have the equipment to do a load test. I'm just going to take it back to advance, I haven't had the battery 2 months. But like I said, I got 0.00 omhs when I tested the stator as per the manual. I'm thinking it's the stator. Manual said ohms should be between .1-.3 ohms (Message edited by mr2shim on October 11, 2008) | ||
| Hughlysses |
You may have a bad stator, but that wouldn't stop a fully charged battery from cranking the engine. Something else has to be wrong to cause the problems you're describing. Bad stator results in no charge to battery; bike should start and run fine until battery charge drops too low. | ||
| Mr2shim |
Yea, that's what I've been trying to figure out all night. Maybe the battery can't handle a load. I'm going to take the battery back tomorrow and get another, see if it'll at least crank. If not then... oh noes... Question, does the clutch assembly really need to be removed to take out the stator & rotor? I can't seem to grasp as to why that has to be done. (Message edited by mr2shim on October 11, 2008) | ||
| Bombardier |
Stator is under the engine sprocket so yes you will need to lock the engine and clutch sprocket but only need to take off the engine sprocket. | ||
| Froggy |
If you do end up getting a new battery from autozone/wherever, make sure they load test it before you leave. Etennuly bought a new battery that must of been sitting on the shelf for a few years, it wasn't much better than the battery he was replacing. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The clutch has to come off with the engine sprocket because of that big-ass primary chain. The engine sprocket, clutch, and primary chain have to come off (and go back on) together. The hardest part of the whole job is re-torquing the crankshaft nut. | ||
| Mr2shim |
Yea,... I think I'm not going to be riding for a while.  That's ok though, I had plans to rotate the motor down within the next month or so to do some maintenance. I'm just going to take it to Thunder Tower, they said parts & labor would be just over 300. |
