| Author | Message | ||
     Krueger08xb12s |
Well I did it; I got stupid and over-torqued a bolt through my primary cover threads while replacing my clutch inspection cover! I threaded the bolt back out and there was some metal shavings wrapped around the bolt threads. I removed these and any other shavings I could get out of the bolt hole and put the cover back on, lightly tightening the bolt in my newly-stripped hole. I took the bike for a 15 minute ride to see if it'd leak at all and, well, no leaks at all. For a second my blood-pressure went down, then it hit me….did I do any damage riding the bike with the potential metal shavings floating around in my primary fluid? Also, how do I rethread the hole? Do I have to completely remove the primary cover or can I rethread it carefully in place and use a magnet to remove any shavings in the fluid? Please…any hints, tips, or criticism will be much appreciated! | ||
| Firebolt32 |
how do I rethread the hole? Cheap tap and die set at Home Depot or Lowes. can I rethread it carefully in place Yup | ||
| Krueger08xb12s |
If anyone has a recommendation for a rethreading tool please let me know. I've never rethreaded anything before! | ||
| Krueger08xb12s |
Thanks firebolt you beat me to it. I'll go tomorrow and do the work. What about the potential metal shavings? I noticed a had some before i stripped it anyways on the magnetic drain plug...probably normal wear from the new bike's clutch plates. Should i not be concerned? | ||
| Point_doc |
I installed heli-coils in all 5 of my inspection bolt holes. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-6422&PMPXNO=1640815 You will need to grind the tip (50% plus) off of the drill-bit so you do not drill thru the case. Its aluminum, magnet does not work; vacuum does. (Message edited by point_doc on October 09, 2008) | ||
| Krueger08xb12s |
So install the heli-coil, drain the fluid, and vacuum the primary from the drain plug and inspection opening? How much would a few left-over shavings damage the bike?? | ||
| Point_doc |
The aluminum is a very soft metal and should not do any damage. You can use painters blue tape from Home Depot to tape up the opening to try to minimize any chips from getting into the case. Make sure you flatten the tip of the bit and if you are not sure, send it to me and I will do it for you. (Message edited by point_doc on October 09, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
The holes are blind-they don't go through to oil. If you are gentle with the drill, and careful with the tap, you should be able to heli-coil all the holes without ever affecting the oil. When you get close to the bottom of the hole, stop and peek, and you'll see when you start removing metal from the bottom and that's when you stop. And a little loose aluminum in the oil wouldn't hurt even if you DID get some in there. As far as recutting the threads, I doubt it. The metal for the threads you have is damaged. You'll either have to go to a larger thread bolt (Not feasible), or helicoil. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Oh, stuff a clean rag in the adjuster hole to keep shaving from falling in to the hole, and into the oil. | ||
| Jlnance |
there was some metal shavings wrapped around the bolt threads. Those metal shavings are the threads from the primary cover.  I've done that myself. You've already got good advice, and I'd concur with that. You want to helicoil the hole, and perhaps the other holes as well while you're in there. The helicoiled threads will be stronger than the original, so view it as a product improvement.  You can buy the helicoils at an autoparts store. It will list the drill size you need on the back, which was a size the autoparts store did not sell. I found that at northern tools. The helicoil comes with a tap, but you will need a handle for it. I found that at Home Depot. You have to drill out the existing holes before you tap them. They are sealed in the back, and you don't want to drill that out. Use one of the screws to guage the depth you need to drill, and put a piece of tape around the drillbit at that depth. You can stuff the opening of the primary cover with rags to keep shavings from falling into it. If you put grease on the drillbit, it will make the shavings stick to the bit rather than fall, which also helps. If you've never tapped anything before, try drilling a hole into a piece of aluminum and tapping it. Better to practice on this than your primary cover. Oh, grease on the tap will catch those shavings as well. | ||
| Ducxl |
As easy as primary covers are to remove....DOH!!! Just remove it to repair. I've Heli-Coiled many holes.As a machinist i'm accostomed,but be very careful following the directions for proper drill size,and when winding the Heli-Coil insert into the hole with their special tool. BTW...In a pinch,a brand new primary cover is less than $200 | ||
| Krueger08xb12s |
Thanks for all the advise everyone. I used a "permi-coil" purchased from PepBoys. It was extremely easy and cost only $35 for the tap, 20 coils, rethreading tool, and the 17/64" bit! I put athletic tape over the opening and there's no aluminum in the fluid. Point of advise for you new buellers out there, new Buells burn excessive oil in the first few thousand miles. Before I changed it at 4500mi, not a drop of oil was on the dipstick and the oil light did NOT ever come on. There was no metalics in the oil but I'll surely check the oil more often now! |
