| Author | Message | ||
     Maggotbar |
Evening all, Well I got some black HPC headers from Bueller parts a little while back got a few quotes to put them on and wasn't keen on the price. At the same time I wasn't keen on rolling the engine either seemed like a little too much effort. I found a brief most on Badweb that mentioned it could be possible to do it by removing the cooling fan and rear shock. Gave it a go and was able to do it with only minimal screwing around. basically I put the bike up on front and rear stands. -Removed the seat -Tail fairing -Airbox cover and assembly -Then placed a Sawing horse under the tail section of the bike. -Removed the bolts retaining the rear shock and let the tail sit on the sawing horse with a few blocks of wood. I didnt take the shock completely out just moved it further down into the bike. -Unscrewed the cooling fan moved it out to the side that gave me access to the rear header. Next Step -Disconnect the wire to the Oxygen Sensor -Removed the Oxygen sensor with a 22mm open ended spanner had to have my mate move the rear shock so I could get the spanner on it. -Next I made sure I could get to the hidden slusive bolt which requires the engine roll and with a quarter drive 1/2 inch socket no worries!. I actually found that the best way to do it was to come up form underneath the frame with the Universal Joint and the long extension in my 1/4 drive socket set. next i continued to crack all of the other header bolts. -Now that I decided I was winning I removed my right air duct and the chin fairing. -I undid the rear axle just enough to put some slack on the belt. -Removed the tensioner. -Now removed the Fasteners on the muffler clamps and the header clamp then removed the muffler. -I removed the header bolts. -Now was time to remove the headers. I had to sort of work them out a bit but eventually they kind of popped out after jiggling them for about 3 minutes or so. -I removed the clamping rings then the exhaust clamps The Return leg -I put some masking tape around the V in the middle of the headers so the exhaust clamp wouldn't damage the coating. -Placed the Clamps on then the clamping rings on the new headers. -Now I tried to get the headers back on and it was being a real bitch ended up it was catching a tiny bit on a cooling fin on the rear cylinder i realise I must have flexed the fin slightly when i removed the initial headers. -Basically I had to file about 1 or 2 mm little divot in the cooling fin then the headers slipped in now worries. the amount I had to take out of the cooling fin was very inconsequential and I am sure will have no effect on the engine. -Now with the headers back in place I moved the clamps into position used the 1/4 inch drive socket set and universal joint again to put the header bolts back on, then proceeded to tighten them all a little at a time so they did up evenly. -Now it was time to start putting the bike back together so I pretty much just reversed my steps from above. So I hope this possibly helps a few of you guys out if you were thinking about it. They look awesome so now all I need to do is clean my greasy fingerprints off the fairings and ship the old headers back to Bueller parts. Cheers for reading if you made it this far i will probably throw this up on badweb too as someone may find it useful. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Great info!!! One question though... I know the muffler can be dropped without removing the tensioner. Why did you remover it? Not being critical, just asking... | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
How much more difficult is it to rotate the engine down? | ||
| Rah7777777 |
the tensioner had to come off for me to get my muffler off when I swapped over to a special ops. it depends on how the clamp is install, or its angle more or less. thanks for the advice as i'll be doing this soon to put on my coated header -Robert | ||
| Maggotbar |
Access to the clamps fasteners was kind of impeded by the tensioner so I thought it was easier just to remove it. only takes 2 minutes or so. I didn't want to roll the engine because it required disconnecting allot of cables and purging the fuel pump and seemed to me to be allot of work from what I read I know you don't need to do as much as the workshop manual says. | ||
| Damnut |
No need to purge the fuel pump or disconnect ANY cables. Sorry I lied, you have to disconnect the clutch cable to rotate the engine. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
DUH!!!!! When I switched over to my Spec Ops pipe, I reversed the mounting straps. The nut ends are now on the left side of the bike with very easy access....... | ||
| Vortec57 |
Its really not that hard to roll the motor down either. It took me about 2 hours to have my motor down and pipe off my bike following the factory manual instructions and being super carefull. About 45mins to put it back in. I could have it out this time in less than an hour I be now. | ||
| Damnut |
20-25 minutes to rotate the engine. The manual has you do things that are unnecessary. | ||
| M1combat |
Engine rotation is easier. I've done it probably 15 time and it takes about 15 minutes. You don't need to disconnect the clutch cable. Just pull it to the side so it clears the front of the primary cover as you're lowering the engine. You do need to disconnect it at the front mount though so you have more slack in it but that's all. |
