| Author | Message | ||
     Point_doc |
Just finished installing a 16mm Brembo Radial Front Master Cylinder. Off of an '07, $69.00. No rewiring for the brake light, plug-n-play. I am going to design and CNC a better clamp out of billet alum.    (Message edited by point_doc on September 12, 2008) | ||
| Caféelite |
Sorry for going off topic but I must say you have great choice in mirror location   | ||
| Point_doc |
thanks...lost the right one with the new master cylinder. I am in the process of modeling one and cnc out of billet alum. a replacement clamp for the brake clamp that will have a threaded hole for the mirror. | ||
| Lanretsr |
Is it a 16mm bore or stroke? How does it feel and does it make any improvement? | ||
| Point_doc |
My LYNDALL pads where singin' louder than my Drummer! I have enjoyed the Lyndall pads over the OEM for there performance and feedback. The OEM's where like a light switch, they where either on or off and the nose dive was ridiculous. Were as the Gold's felt as thou they gave you a gradual engagement to a good solid stop and this caused a reduction in the nose dive. Since I have replaced all three springs with HyperPro Progressive, the dive was very minimal especially with the combination of the springs and pad replacement. After the replacement of the OEM master cylinder, the first thing I noticed was the duration of time when the brakes where applied was reduced. It was like a count of a tick to a tick and a half with the new Brembo. There is also an increase in the nose dive and now I can hear the Lyndall’s over my Drummer. Even when I am walking the bike over to be parked and I just lightly tap the brake lever, the bike’s front end will plant. My bike currently has mostly Brembo hardware excluding the front caliper and rotors (rear twin piston caliper and master cylinder, and now the front master cylinder). I feel the addition of the 16mm Brembo Front Radial Master Cylinder is simply a marked improvement. It was confirmed by the reduction in time that was needed when the front brake was applied to get the bike to slow down. | ||
| Retrittion |
Difficulty of the install? I like the ZTL but I hate the rest of the brake hardware -- new master cylinders and a new rear twin or better brake assembly would be golden. Oh, and how was the cost factor? It must be my roots in imports but master cylinders should be ROUND, not square...just looks wrong otherwise. I would be interested in step by step instructions if you are willing as well. Cool mods, stopping better is always a good thing! Cheers | ||
| Point_doc |
Retrittion, Let me know what you are interested in and I will try to write as clear as I can. | ||
| Retrittion |
Mainly mounting a new front master cylinder to my 12R...the stock one irks me ascetically plus I know I could have something better and when it comes to being able to stop, I'll take everything I can get (that doesn't break the bank, of course). Thanks for any info, Cheers! | ||
| Teddagreek |
What Kind of bike was it off? | ||
| Point_doc |
I have one more item I want to address. I will do this when I get paid Friday and then I will be able to complete this project. After I get it the way I want I will write it up with details and better pics. Teddagreek, I will include that info when I get this done. I apologize for being vague, but my concern is if I give this info out I may miss an item I have been watching on eBay. I am trying to make the swapping simple and if I can purchase this item, the swapping will be straight forward. | ||
| Teddagreek |
No Prob... Can't wait for the write up...  | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Brembo 16mm MC gets you better feel with less lever travel. But a slightly greater force on the lever is needed than OEM MC lever. | ||
| Point_doc |
I don't agree; I use a lighter touch for a shorter period of time. Usually force is increased with time and lever travel, how can you explain your statement? "less lever travel. But a slightly greater force on the lever is needed" (Message edited by point_doc on September 16, 2008) | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
There is a greater explanation here in Badweb. Simply put, the greater the bore (16mm bore vs 13mm), more fluid the piston moves, which means less piston travel. But to move greater fluid in a shorter piston travel requires more force. So the bigger bore gives more stiff feedback. Think of it this way. If the bore is the size of your engine piston, how much travel would the piston need to squeeze the brake pads? You wouldn't even feel the movement. Conversely, if you had a millimeter bore, how much would the piston need to travel to squeeze the brake pads? like a foot maybe. Again, do a search here for better scientific explanation. | ||
| Point_doc |
Dcmortalcoil, thank you for taking the time to explain your point and it is a point worth noting. I feel the payoff is worth it, because I am not registering the increased difference of 3mm with my hand. I might and most likely would feel the difference of a greater change from a 13mm to a 19mm. In theory this is good information; in application I am not sensing from my hand an increase of force is needed for the increase in size of the mc piston by 3mm, but with time I can measure the change. The time that I am applying the front brake is reduced; the amount of road needed is reduced (given; speed=dist. +time). There would have to be a noticeable difference to get my attention because when I am going hot toward a turn, my senses are so attuned to managing the bike and the road that the difference I can immediately measure is distance and time. |
