| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
Okay, so two weeks ago I changed my stock front pads out to the Lyndall(sp?) golds. It was a breeze, and everything went back together just the way I would expect, and initial brake pumping showed that they were indeed gripping. As luck would have it, I didn't get to take a test ride, and through various circumstances I just got to take my first test ride tonight. My front brakes feel like they're coated in hand lotion. They hold to a point, and then no more, despite my kung-fu death grip on the brake lever. If I had tried some of tonight's braking with my stock pads, I would have catapulted myself head first into the asphalt. My braking distance has probably tripled. Now I've seen some people say the Lyndalls require breaking in. According to the back of my package, these do not. I gave it a shot anyway, just in case, getting up to speed and coming down hard, oh, maybe 10 times? I haven't felt any changes yet. One thing I did NOT do was hone (or even clean) my rotor, so I've still got stock pad smears all over it. I'm suspecting that this is probably the real culprit in my loss of braking power. But I wanted to pop in and see if there might be something else I should look at. BTW, my brake surging is gone (the whole reason I swapped pads), so that's good. These things buzz a lot under pressure, but so did my stock pads. However, these are continuing to buzz a bit after I let off. Is that normal for the Golds? ~SM | ||
| Glitch |
Yeah the buzz is normal. Sounds like the pads or the rotor got contaminated some how. | ||
| Hexangler |
First off, did you flush your old break fluid completely and bleed the line? I always do this with fresh pads. Second, I just installed my second set of Lyndalls. I did notice this time that even on release, there was still some buzz. I suspect that the calipers are not releasing completely, and that I should take the pistons out and clean and polish everything for a full service. They should work perfectly right off the bat. Also, is your rotor scored? Mine is slightly after 15K. It is possible that the pads will rub until their profile fits the contour of the disk. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
I was having pulsing probs with my 08 Bolt. I recently purchased an 04 Bolt that had Lyndals on (not sure how many miles on them). I swapped the Lyndals to my 08. The Lyndals work fine for me. The 04 was treated to some race pads. Note... Everytime I wash the bike I make sure to use the stream setting of the hose and hose down the front rotor and caliper generously. | ||
| Teddagreek |
If you don't break them in right they will be screwed up.. I think mine weren't broken in right when I had them changed out while I was getting my 10K.. I ended up taking them out sanding them and do it over.. Don't be afraid to really lay into them either.. Good bye pulsing hello buzzzzzzzzzz | ||
| Jeffroj |
I got Lyndalls on order. What's the right way to break them in? All these posts about lyndalls are making me think that I should just stick with the stock pads. Which are better? | ||
| M1combat |
EBC HH | ||
| Moosestang |
The manual says no hard braking for 100 miles. Is that only for the stock pads? I have the braking sintered pads, but I threw away the packaging, which had some kind of break in instructions. | ||
| New12r |
EBC HH +1 After trying both, I am sticking with the EBC's. Break in is VERY IMPORTANT! I dont care what the package says, I have installed thousands of brake pads in my lifetime and if you dont break them in right, you have just Fkd yourself. Also, I have NEVER TOUCHED THE ROTORS, just slap on new pads and proceed to breaking in the new brakes. | ||
| Darthane |
Break-in? What's that? When I swapped to Lyndall's on my Firebolt a few months ago, I sprayed down the rotor, caliper, and pads with brake cleaner, installed them, bled the brakes and rode off. They grip FAR better than the stock pads, and did so right out of my driveway. | ||
| Skully |
+1 Darth | ||
| Cruisin |
I can't remember the exact measurements, but it has to do with 10 stops with a certain force, then 10 more at a larger force...I think it broke down to ten hard stops from 20mph, then ten hard stops from 40mph. I did this and they have been great since. Al knows the routine better, since he sells them. | ||
| Kurbennett |
I just installed Lyndalls front and rear. Both packages said no break in required. I got them recently from Al at American Sport Bike. They seem to be working fine!  | ||
| New12r |
The break in is to get them heat cycled without over heating the pads, and to mate the pad to the rotor surface. But wtf do I know, I just do this for living... | ||
| Darthane |
-=shrugs=- I'm not saying you're wrong or even that it isn't a good idea. I'm just saying that my experience was just what the packaging suggested - no special break-in required. I guess I should note that I don't race my Firebolt and generally ride rather sedately since it's almost all city-riding, but as I noted, I didn't perform any special break-in and they certainly seem to be performing quite well - much better than the stock ones that they replaced (though the stock ones were about 12K miles old at this point). | ||
| New12r |
I am just an a hole(just ask my pals)....please forgive me. For your circumstances you did break them in, by being easy on them. Some pads require a very special routine to get the desired effect, but as stated above you just need to take it easy to get the pads to fully seat on the old, irregular rotor surface. New pads are dead flat, your rotor is not so you will not get full braking force on the first handful of stops and run the risk of overheating the pads and or rotor because there is not "full contact". | ||
| 12x9sl |
I just swapped out my stock pads and replaced them with Lyndals Labor day weekend to get rid of pulsing. I got the new recipe of no break-in required. They worked fine. My wife's bike got the old style that required the special break-in (which I did to the letter) and they work great as well.  | ||
| Teddagreek |
So Lyndals have changed their pads? Interesting.. | ||
| Teddagreek |
I guess the did... Gold Plus compound The Gold Plus compound is our latest advancement in high performance friction materials. This racing formula offers extreme stopping power in both wet and dry conditions. Dust and rotor wear are eliminated. This proprietary blend of organics and trace iron requires no break-in and can see over 18,000 miles. | ||
| Glitch |
I am just an a hole(just ask my pals)....please forgive me. Nah, he's not a-hole, he just acts like one  Must be getting old too, he's asking forgiveness! | ||
| Ezblast |
Has anybody tried Galfer? They deliver great 1 finger breaking and decent lack of rotor wear - at least on a Blast - surely they have pads for the XB? EZ | ||
| Swordsman |
BTW, just an update, I've had my bike out twice more, and the grip is definitely getting better. Still takes more lever to get them hold, but they're slowing me much quicker now. I still need to clean the calipers out though... the pads don't want to fully release, and keep right on buzzing. ~SM |
