| Author | Message | ||
     Redbuelljunkie |
I've gotten some good info about GP shift on the XB from the KV, but I still have a question. Is there a difference between reversing the shift and leaving the pivot in the lower mounting hole, as opposed to moving it to the upper mount? I have seen it both ways on this site. Are both just as simple?  The way I've taught myself to adjust to GP shift is to think of it like this: when lower revs are needed- press down, when higher revs are needed- press up. This helped my brain wrap around the idea better. | ||
| Froggy |
I have mine setup the same way as yours, haven't had an issue | ||
| Jimduncan69 |
i run the same way as well. | ||
| Hooligan620 |
me too, same way! | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Sounds good to me... I haven't changed it yet on the XB (the photo is from an old knowledge vault thread). I have seen some photos of race XB's with the shifter moved up to the higher mount hole- didn't know what the difference was. Keeping it where it is suits me fine. Thanks for the feedback. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
The upper mount hole is for GP shifting. You'll be surprise, how much more easier it is to shift by mounting the shifter at the upper mount hole. All you need is a shorter adjusting barrel. | ||
| Xl1200r |
+1 Dcm - using the upper hole will let you have better linkage geometry. | ||
| Xl_cheese |
I was playing with the gpshift idea this weekend. I saw the extra hole and had no idea it was an alternative mnt for the linkage. I know what I'm doing tonight.  | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
All good info... but if I do move it to the upper mount, I won't be able to use the stock linkage rod? If the stock rod cannot be shortened enough, what rod is recommended? | ||
| Miko_k |
Here is my GP shifter  http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web /2458000-2458999/watermark_2458244_260_full.jpg?13 1608-253 | ||
| Xl_cheese |
The stock rod doesn't appear to be short enough for the alternative hole. It looks like it can be made to fit with a lil handy work tho. Need to trim the threads from each end as well as shorten the sleeve. I'm hesitant to start cutting away if I don't end up liking it. I'll prolly just do it the way pictured above to tell whether I'd like it. | ||
| Moosestang |
Here is my GP shifter http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web /2458000-2458999/watermark_2458244_260_full.jpg?13 1608-253 Now that's a good idea! | ||
| Djkaplan |
Back in the 70's, you could buy aftermarket shifters like that with upper and lower toe-pegs. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I applaud you guys that can make the change to GP shifting... it's too late for me. I could never make the change at this point. | ||
| Nillaice |
awesome welding there, miko i've been shifting GP style since this spring. i took the winter off, and that helped re-learning to shift a lil easier | ||
| Henry_the_8th |
I switched to GP and I'll never go back. It does take a second to get used to the "other" way of shifting when riding other bikes. | ||
| Retrittion |
I run GP, just switched it around and it works fine as long as you use some locktite after you re-install or you might leave it on the road. Ask me how I know...  I don't plan on going back either -- just feels better this way. Just put a big note with GP on it and tape it to your top triple tree. Take it easy for a week and use special caution during cornering and you'll be set in no time. | ||
| Froggy |
My bike is GP, but everyone else's i ride and the demo bikes are all stock. I have no issue going between both, but i am much slower shifting on the stock setups. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Hey Red, I bought the adjustment rod while back from http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com. They sell them for $30 - comes with everything you need for GP shifting. | ||
| Xb9ser |
Thought about it but daughter just got her mc licnence 2mo ago and her bike is normal. she rides the buell sometimes. | ||
| Spike |
I may be missing something, but it appears that both mounting holes are in the same line with the shift shaft. If that is the case, mounting the shifter in the upper hole won't change the geometry, it'll just require a shorter rod. On top of that using the upper hole places the shift lever farther upward and forward in relationship to the footpeg. Assuming you want the toe peg of the shifter to stay close to the same position, you'd have to change the angle of the shift lever which would hinder the geometry of the shift linkage. It seems that the only reason to use the top mounting hole is to move the position of the shifter toe peg, not alter geometry. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Spike, There's a huge difference in geometry. Notice how the adjustment barrel is close to 90 degrees relative to the part clamped to the shaft. This is the Woodcraft shifter with their linkage.  | ||
| M1combat |
I think the upper one is just for big feet... I run GP shift in the lower one and it shifts quite nicely. Granted that's after 55K miles of transmission break in... | ||
| Spike |
The difference in that picture is that the Woodcraft shifter places the mounting point for the adjustment rod further away from the pivot point of the shift lever. Also notice how the Woodcraft shifter places the toe peg further from the pivot point, allowing it to be mounted in the upper hole without sacrificing the toe peg position. The two mounting holes are in line with the shifter shaft. As long as the positions of each mounting point for the adjustment rod remain constant in relation to the positions of each pivot point and the length of the rod is adjusted to compensate, the distance between the two pivot points will not affect geometry. However, assuming you wanted to keep the toe peg position near stock you would need to change the angle of the shift lever if you mounted it in the upper hole which would put the mounting point for the adjustment rod on the shift lever further from 90 degrees than if it were mounted in the lower hole. That would mean that the geometry would be worse if using a stock shift lever in the upper mounting hole. | ||
| Nillaice |
it seems as though this "huge difference" would not be that huge, and/or would be something one could get used to relatively quickly, IMO | ||
| Patrickmitchell |
I simply flipped the fitting on the output shaft and it works perfectly. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Well, I received my order today... I had good reason to be concerned- it's the wrong part. They sent a shift lever without the toe peg. There's two obstacles here- terminology and missing photos on Woodcraft's website. I tried my best to explain again that I need the threaded adjustment rod that connects the shift lever to the splined shaft... we'll see if they "get it" this time. If not, I'm just gonna reverse the stock parts like many people here and just go with that. It would have helped if they had a photo of the part I ordered- but there was "no photo available" for the description of the part they told me I needed. Very frustrating. |
