| Author | Message | ||
     Vortec57 |
I've checked out the KV and found some help, but a few more questions too. The front upper stud is sheared on my 03 XB9R. I just noticed it 2 weeks ago, and now it's allowed the clamp to loosen and its leaking bad now. I've got to pull the whole head pipe to get good access for my drilling and easy out useage. It looks like I'm going to have to tear off the rear subframe, shock and fan to get to the stud, is this correct or is there an easier way? In the KV there was some mention of a "Jims tool" Anyone around here have one they could let me rent for a bit? Someone in Colorado would be optimal. The bike's my main transportation source lately and I'm hoping to keep downtime to a minimum. Going to go through my service manual right now and see what it says. Advice and words of encouragement are greatly appreciated at the moment!!! | ||
| Iamarchangel |
First, you got to do it. A leaking exhaust at the head will lead to a hole in the piston. Ask me how I know. Manual says you'll have to rotate the engine to get to the studs. Says nothing about subframe, shock and fan. You'll have to drain the oil from the swingarm. I've got no practical experience here, I'm just looking at the manual. Hmm, better check my studs. | ||
| M1combat |
You won't need to drain the oil. Put the bike on the kick stand. Pull the muffler. You see the black bracket that the two airscoops are mounted to? Take off the scoops and then remove the bracket (The three upper mounts to the frame). Place a jack under the engine with the thinnest piece of wood between them you can find. Remove the rear engine tie bar and the upper engine tie bar. Place some pressure on the engine with the jack. Remove the front isolator bolt and the engine is now only connected to the frame at the rear engine mount. You can now lower the engine to get at the rear header studs. There may be a couple more parts that need to be removed/loosened (The coil is one that needs to be loosened, of course you'll need to remove the airbox and all that stuff as well) so keep your eyes open. When lowering the engine be sure to move the clutch cable to the side of the engine or it will tighten around the primary and be damaged. It's really pretty simple. Now comes the hard part... Have you ever used an "Easy" out? | ||
| Point_doc |
Here is examples of screw/bolt extractors: For the size of the bolt, I would strongly recommend the Multi-spline extractor. 1-Drill-Out Power Extractor 2-Multi-Spline I would only use this one as my only choice: 1-Spiral Flute This is the one that will break and most of us have had a negative experience with: 1-Ezy-Out http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=318-0160& PMPXNO=941970&PARTPG=INLMK32 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-1324& PMPXNO=3900858&PARTPG=INLMK32 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-2076& PMPXNO=4830689&PARTPG=INLMK3 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=310-1226& PMPXNO=948642&PARTPG=INLMK32 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2& PMAKA=317-1817&PMPXNO=19495207 (Message edited by Point_doc on July 06, 2008) | ||
| Vortec57 |
OK guys. After reading the manual the bike is up on my stands and just about ready to rotate. I've done the easy out game before, and know quite well that its not "easy" thats why I was hoping to borrow/rent a jims tool maybe. Once its ready I'm going to center punc the stud good with a transfer punch to make sure its centered good and try some drilling. If it starts to go south I'll be stopping and calling one of my friends who's a tech at my dealership. Everyone cross your fingers! | ||
| Jlnance |
I've done this a few times on my Blast. The thing you want to avoid is breaking the ez-out off in the hole. If that happens things get MUCH harder. Oldog told me not to use an ez-out at all. Just drill & helicoil. Thats one option. I've also been told if you drill with left handed drill bits, the stud will often come out w/o having to use an extractor. I have not had luck finding left hand drill bits though. The Jims tool is $80. I have never used one. My last freehand drill attempt cost me $130 to have fixed at a cycle-rama. I think I'll spring for the tool next time. | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
You do not have to rotate the engine down th get the headers off. I just changed the headers on my wifes 03 XB9s with out swinging the engine down. Send me your e-mail and I will send you step by step instructions how to do it. Jimmy | ||
| Vortec57 |
Ah bishop I wish I'd seen that about 2 hours ago! It took me about an hour to do it, but the motor is rotated down and the headder is off. Did a little on the easy out and it didnt want to come out yet. More penetrating oil and the tech from my shop tomorrow, hopefully that works better | ||
| Nik |
if there's any stud protruding I've have good luck welding a nut to the end and using an impact wrench to remove it on other bikes. | ||
| Sloppy |
There is no "easy", "cheap" or "quick" solution to this one. Be patient and get the right people and tools involved to do the job correctly. Shortcuts will cost you. Do what Nik recommends -- see if you can have someone weld a stud on it. Spray a bit of screw penetrator solution in the threads and let it sit over night. Then you can screw it out. There are PLENTY of mobile welding rigs out there if you need someone to do it. 2nd suggestion is a Jim's tool. Just buy it and be done with it. At no time should you use a hardened tool like an easy-out or tap as you have to be extremely careful in not letting it break. If it does break then you are in trouble as you can't screw it out. Removing a hardened bit will make this job significantly worse so don't run the risk. It takes a fine feel to know when you're hardened steel goes "plastic" and is ready to snap. | ||
| Ducbsa |
I broke a Easy Out in a bolt in an AJS trans casing and had to have it electrical discharge machined (EDM) out. This was 30 years ago, but it only cost $25; probably the best part was finding someone to do such a little job. | ||
| Tailspining |
Check out American Sport Bike. Al might have just what you need. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16029.html | ||
| M1combat |
"You do not have to rotate the engine down th get the headers off. I just changed the headers on my wifes 03 XB9s with out swinging the engine down." I'd agree that you may be able to get the headers off a nine without the rotation. You can't with a twelve unless you want to bend (only a little) a couple of cooling fins. It's not the removing the header that he's really going for though it's getting straight at the exhaust stud with a drill. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've had to do this twice on different Buells. Don't let an easy out anywhere *near* that head. Get the Jims tool. If you don't take my advice, the bullet shaped tungsten carbide cutting bits are your best bet to cut through that hardened easy out tip you have now wedged into your sheared stud. Plan on the better part of a day to grind it out of there, and hope you don't bugger up the threads too badly. Then you can get the jims tool and make a clean hole, or just drill and tap (less strong, but if your threads are intact it's workable) or drill and heli-coil. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and rotating the engine is like a pulling a rocker box on a tuber. You start thinking its not that bad... Then you get going and read the manual and start to think its a lot harder then you thought... Then you get into it and before you know it, it is done, and you realize it really wasn't that hard after all. Just take your time and don't shear any bolts or anything, and be methodical putting it back together. |
