| Author |
Message |
    
Point_doc
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:01 pm: | 
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Here is examples of screw/bolt extractors:
I would consider in this order:
1-Drill-Out Power Extractor
2-Multi-Spline
I would only use this one as my only choice:
1-Spiral Flute
This is the one that will break and most of us have had a negative experience with:
1-Ezy-Out
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=318-0160& PMPXNO=941970&PARTPG=INLMK32
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-1324& PMPXNO=3900858&PARTPG=INLMK32
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-2076& PMPXNO=4830689&PARTPG=INLMK3
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=310-1226& PMPXNO=948642&PARTPG=INLMK32
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2& PMAKA=317-1817&PMPXNO=19495207 |
Point_doc
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:16 pm: |
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I believe there will be three factors to be considered for welding.
1 Diameter of the work surface.
2 Accessibility to the work surface.
3 Skill of the welder.
(Message edited by point_doc on June 06, 2008) |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:25 pm: |
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Going with a big EZout is good, but don't go so big that the walls of the bolt get thin. If that happens, when you drive in the EZout, it can expand, and lock the bolt remnants in place.
I've seen guys use an oxyacetylene torch and BURN the bolt out before... |
Point_doc
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:26 pm: |
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We (posters) are a bit handicapped because of location and it is difficult to have an absolute resolution for this.
Under any circumstances do not grind! If you are not able to get the broken bit out, get a local shop to assist you.
If you continue and are successful with the removal of the broken bit, keep us posted. |
Point_doc
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:33 pm: |
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Jos51700 makes a great point!! The Drill-out Power Extractor's can be purchased individually, so pick one that is around 40:50% of the bolt diameter. That will leave you approximately 25;30% per side.
(Message edited by point_doc on June 06, 2008) |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 01:43 pm: |
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For future reference, you don't have to pull that tie-bar to rotate the motor.
When you pull the top tie-bar, always pull the NON-frame side, to avoid more issues like what you have now. Busting a bolt or stripping a thread in a removable/replaceable frame bracket is way better than in your frame!
Good luck with this! |
Cold_iron
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 02:36 pm: |
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with the broken drill bit in there i have burning up drill bits, dont know how to remove it to get deeper into the bolt. BTW, how deep should i go into the bolt before putting the screw extractor in, it was going well as i had about a 1/2 in as i was working to expand the size of the hole. As i wanted to go deeper this is where i broke the guide bit. |
Point_doc
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2008 - 03:03 pm: |
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Take a look at the other ones that you have removed. It also depends on the type of extractor you use. They have a taper on them, so the depth will very by an 1/8 plus.
Drilling: Drill bits are like water/electricity, they will always find the path of least resistance. Materials are never consistent in density unless it has been treated for this reason. While drilling, when the tip of the bit contacts softer material it will always follow the softer material to work thru. A drill bit will flex/bend and wonder from the origin. If you have not drilled a hole longer then an inch you probably would not notice this, or you have a location of a hole that has a relationship with another feature with a tolerances of 0.005” then you will.
To increase the chances of a drill bit to run true, the surface of the material that is to be drilled needs to be perpendicular to the long axis of the bit. If not, the surface needs to be prepped by either a pilot hole or a prick mark.
If you try to drill out the broken bit, the moment the tip of the drill bit touches the end of the bit it will wonder. Most likely the end of the broken bit is beveled from the break and will cause the point to slip and if the tip slips it will prefer to drill thru the softer aluminum verses the hard tooling steel of the broken bit. If this happens, you will almost always totally destroy/disform that part of the bike. In order to repair the damage from a wondering bit, you would have to drill a larger hole for a slip-fit plug. Then the plug would have to be welded and then the surface would have to be restored as close as possible to the original design.
If you have to drill it out you need to either grind the end of the broken piece (drill bit) down to a flat surface or take a small carbide bit in the dremel and start a pilot hole. Then you must have a carbide bit drill-bit so you can drill into the tooling steel (broken drill bit).
Now hopefully you will find it favorable to pick, pick and pick. It may take you a short period to pick out the broken bit or all weekend, but the alternative if not done correctly would be devastating.
Always have sharp bit and a drop of cutting oil on the tip.
(Message edited by point_doc on June 06, 2008) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 02:41 pm: |
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Thanks for keeping it up to date with your progress. These things are always a mess, and I learn a lot from real world results and experience (both good and bad). |
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