| Author | Message | ||
     Mr_gto |
Just a quick question. I plan on changing my fork springs and oil this weekend. My problem is that i have an 05 bike and a 03 shop manual. I know they went to 44mm fork tubes from 41mm. My Q is, are the fluid capacity and measurements the same as stated in the 03 manual or have they changed. If they are different, could someone please post them for me. Thanks! Tim | ||
| Mr_gto |
Anyone know? | ||
| Metalstorm |
I don't have my 05 manual handy right now but in a couple hours from now I can look it up if no else does so before then. | ||
| Mr_gto |
Thanks Metal! I am doing them tomorrow afternoon. | ||
| Bertman |
16 ounces of fluid, then adjust oil level to 4.57 in. (116 mm) from top of fork tube. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Exactly what Bertman said  Good luck tomorrow. I changed the fluid in my forks for the first time a few months ago. It wasn't as difficult as I had convinced myself it would be. I didn't mess with the damper or seals though. I just drained & refilled. A few more thousand miles and I will be trying my hand at seal & bushing replacement. | ||
| Mr_gto |
Thanks to you both!!!!! I just plan on draining and refilling myself. I only have about 5k on her so i will just wait till later to do the whole shabang. | ||
| Blake |
Be sure to slowly work/pump the damper rods a bunch, 15 times or so, before measuring. | ||
| Mr_gto |
One more question. Should I measure the oil level with the springs in or out? | ||
| Blake |
Springs out, forks fully compressed. | ||
| Blake |
1. Remove front forks. 2. Hold upper fork in clamp. 3. Remove snap ring and unscrew preload adjuster. 4. Remove fork cap. 5. Compress fork, remove preload washer and slider piston. 6. Allow fork to extend, remove spring, spring collar and then drain fork oil. 7. Drain remaining oil by pumpin the damping rod until it moves freely, usually 8 to 10 times. 8. Reclamp in upright orientation. 9. Pour about 8 ounces of fork fluid into the fork tube. 10. Completely compress fork and slowly pump damper rod until steady increased resistance is felt, about 12 to 15 times. 11. Pour additional 8 ounces of fluid into fork tube. 12. Adjust oil level as required so that it is 116mm from top of fork tube. 13. Reinstall spring and spring collar; note that sspring should be dry, not dripping with oil; a slight film is okay. 14. Compress fork and install preload washer and slider piston. 15. Hold damper rod and install fork cap. Torque to **22-30 FT-LBs. 16. Install (lightly oiled o-ring) preload asjuster, screw in to proper rider suspension settings. Install snap ring. Be careful to avoid damaging the preload pins while holding damper rod assembly. ** Note: Verify proper torque specification for your particular year and model Buell Motorcycle. | ||
| Jaimec |
And now I know why it was so damned expensive to replace the fork oil in my Lightning last Fall. I'm used to: 1) Open top fill bolt 2) Open bottom drain bolt 3) Drain oil 4) Replace bottom drain bolt 5) Fill with specified amount of spec fork oil. 6) Replace top fill bolt 7) Repeat on other side. | ||
| Hogs |
So... Blake I guess this is IF one is just changing the fluid and thats it, Leaving stock seals and all in place?? | ||
| Blake |
You got it Hogs. I gleaned the above straight from an old '03 XB service manual with oil quantity and level adjusted for the '05. I agree Jamie. Unfortunately the above is pretty much standard for all cartridge style forks, which are much better performing than the cheaper damper rod style that some lower end motorcycles employ. | ||
| Mr_gto |
Thanks Blake. I thought I would have my springs last weekend, but no luck. I am just chomping at the bit to get started. I have a track day next weekend at Talladega, so i am trying to get everything dialed in before hand. | ||
| Jaimec |
Blake, In all fairness, in 1985 those forks of mine were state of the art...  | ||
| Blake |
Mine too. | ||
| Capecodder |
I just replaced my fork bushings and seals. First off please realize that everything you have ever owned, currently own, or are thinking about owning will get a mist of oil on it. You included. Be prepared with plenty of lint free shop towels. The 2000 Cyclone FRONT FORK UPPER OIL BUSHINGS cross reference to the HD J011Z-01A4 part, if that makes it easier to obtain and they cost under $10 a pair. Jump through all the necessary hoops removing springs and then ensure the lower leg bushing housing is clean. A little Mystery oil on 1500 grit emery will clean without damaging. I then cleaned upper and lower tubes thoroughly with diesel and then washed and soaked both in degreaser and hot water in a large laundry sink, rinsed thoroughly, blown with air, then left overnight while UPS winged their way to me with new bushings. American Sportbike had the seals in stock that I already had and Al helped me with a cross reference part number that a dealer in Boston had and could get to me the next day. Thanks Al! Put the new bushings in after lubing them, using the old bushing and the spacer washer to "lightly" tap into place. BTW the old bushing can be easily removed using a small screwdriver belonging to somebody else preferably, to "bend" at the split in the bushing. It can be reshaped quite easily on the upper tube with a rubber mallet or even by hand, as it no longer has to fit in anywhere important. All this putting in half a bottle, pumping and "adjusting" to 116mm is fine if you like sucking oil through a straw, so add half and pump, then add the rest of the bottle (16oz) except a shot glass full then drip the remainder in till the numbers are right. I used a digital vernier caliper gauge, but a drinking straw marked up accordingly will do. It is not a nice job, but necessary. Be prepared with both imperial and metric hex wrenches and regular wrenches as this is one of those areas that makes one think Erik is playing with you. Good luck. |
