| Author | Message | ||
     Zoedogg1 |
So a couple weeks ago I changed my brake pads...easy enough...wrong, not the way I did it. I read the service manual for the front after doing the back. Well, the rear I removed the top portion of the caliper to remove the pads. Doesnt seem like a big deal but somehow did something wrong..the pads where gone,toasted after a week and a half. Figured these pads just suck "Ferodo Sintered" pads...wrong they are good. Anyhow I went ahead and put the stocks back on that are at half life and took the caliper apart the same way. When I went to put it back together the threading somehow was all screwed up and were all cockeyed so the pads were not flush like they should be. I somewhat forced the bolts on so the threads are cooked, and crooked. I took the bolts off again and have my son hold the foot lever down to align them flush and once again rethread the caliper again. They are on straight, but I still dont feel good about it. I've ordered up a new caliper to replace the screwed one, but MAN I hate when things like this happen. I'll have to bleed it and start all over again here in a couple weeks or less. I dont have a separate banjo bolt but can I still bleed them and all? I have tubing and syringes cause I work in a medical lab. But do I need more stuff besides that? And should I replace all the brake fluid or just top it off with Harley fluid which is in there now? | ||
| Etennuly |
I would recommend that you find some help. Not to offend you in any way, but with the results of how your brake job has gone so far, I wouldn't want you to do mine, er-go I wouldn't want you to do yours. Brakes are too important to guess and try on. Maybe there is a BadWeB Bueller or two in your area? How about a friend with mechanical skills or a mechanic to oversee what you are doing. A car mechanic should be able to help you, the hardware is the same but smaller. They might require the service manual for specifics like fluid type and bleeding procedures. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
I thought about just takin it to Buell and having them put it on. Also, is the brake caliper the same for 04 and 05. I bought an 05? | ||
| Wantxbr |
Too me it sounds like you are missing or missed the rear clip that the pads sit in. How did you release the pressure when you collapsed the piston in the caliper? Did you undo the bleed valve or just force the piston in which would force the brake fluid back into the reservoir? You may have too much fluid in the reservoir causing pressure on the pads. But i'm leaning more towards you missed the clip. | ||
| Norrie |
I agree that if you don't know you shouldn't be playing with your brakes. Take it to the dealer to get done or at least a proper mechanic. Norrie. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Hmmm. yeah I just pushed the cylinder back slow and didnt remove any of the fluid. It was in the clip, I made sure of that. it was the inner pad that was toast also, the outer was about half gone. I prob. should have bleed it a little. Im gonna take it in next time I think. Looks like the brake calipers are the same also from 98 to 08. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Break the Bleeder Valve and then push the plunger in. Do the install again, but this time have the wheel in the air so you can spin it and hit the brakes making sure they aren't grabbing. If you don't have a way of propping up the rear wheel then rock it back and forth a few times hitting the brake lever often to be sure the wheel is moving freely and the brakes aren't staying compressed against the rotor. Also check your rotor for any warping. You may have dished the rotor and if you did you will have this same problem all over again. You'll need to replace it. | ||
| Jos51700 |
I was gonna say, That rotor is probably smoked. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
your slide pin bolts (or whatever the hell they are called) could have a good amount of gunk built up, mine did. just clean them off and apply some anti-seize or brake paste or whatever you want to call it. I think you can get it on your own without the dealer! go through and re-do the procedure and bleed them when done. just run a piece of vacuum hose from the bleeder valve and leave the cap off and keep it topped off and pump the pedal for a while. and you can use any DOT 4 fluid. doesnt have to be Harley, just make sure the container is sealed when you get it. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Man...Yeah I screwed it all up. Im gonna take it to Harley. I checked the rotor and it is cooked. I have lumps in it as big as probably 3/16th of an inch on both sides. I ordered up a new rotor also...fu&%in stupid mistake. Believe it or not I do know better and I have worked on my own bikes, cars, and trucks for as long as I can remember. I have done brakes and learned to do brakes as a kid at 15 years old. I had no resistance threading the bolts in the first time at all on my bike and took all of 15 minutes to do. Then the second time after noticing the crazy pad wear the bolts were all screwed up...dont know how but they were. I know I could put them on but Im smart enough to know that when Im as pissed off as I am at the outcome to just back off before I make it worse. I just dont understand how it got so messed up. The front pads or perfect, no problems. I wonder if the owner before me did something to screw them up. I've owned it since Feb. of this year and I've done countless fixes and upgrades on my bike, then this...shit. I dont want to take it in to Harley, but Im gonna bite the bullet and have it done for me. I can take it in until the 30th of this month, so Im not gonna get to ride much. I might just use the front brake and skip the rear use at all till its fixed...which screws me for any real sport rides..Oh well. |
