| Author | Message | ||
     Norrie |
My wheel bearings need replaced and I understand that you need a special tool to remove them. I was going to buy a blind bearing remover tool but I see that American Sport Bike sell a tool specific for the job. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9069.html Has anyone used this tool and how does it work? Also what is the best way to replace the bearings. Cheers. Norrie. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
if Al sells it im sure its good. I dont think i have ever herd of him selling some thing that was junk. | ||
| Wantxbr |
I called Al for you and he said this tool is used in conjunction with a Press. You would install this tool on the bearing and then use a press to push the bearing out the opposite side. The tool does work well but you still would need a Press. Firebolt020283 is correct though, If Al sells it it is a good product. | ||
| Point_doc |
$100.00 press... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=4711 Is there another option for wheel bearing's then OEM? (Message edited by point_doc on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Wantxbr |
I'd get the 12 ton, its sturdier and presses straighter. I have the 12 ton it works pretty well, not great but prefect for what I do. Wheel Bearings At American Sport Bike. Havn't found any After Market ones yet. I'm sure there are some though. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17169.html (Message edited by wantxbr on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Point_doc |
Agree, I also have the 12. I thought I ran across another source for bearings. If I find one, I'll update this thread. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Hey Doc myself and another bueller (His name is Todd forgot his user name here)should be at the top of Palomar at Mother,s Kitchen tomorrow around noon. Gonna get a bite to eat and run the mountain a couple of times. Should be another rider or two hopefully with us on rice burners. Come for a run if you can. I may be slow, still getting used to the bike....lol Check here for more info. http://www.musclecross.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id= 79 | ||
| Point_doc |
Wantxbr love too, thanks for the invite but I work!! lol. How's your new bike? (Message edited by point_doc on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Wantxbr |
Absolutely love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't find enough time to ride it. i'm taking Tuesday off so I can...  Been doing little mods here and there on it. If i'm not riding it i'm taking it apart in the garage....lol (Message edited by wantxbr on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Norrie |
Thanks for that. I've got a press at work so that's not a problem. You can buy bearings online. I would recommend SKF and you need 6005-2rs and 6006-2rs. Much cheaper than buying from a dealers. Norrie. | ||
| Jramsey |
Using a press is fine as long as the frame has a wide/deep enough throat to get the bearings of the wheel/tire assy. under the ram/stem. An expanding collet with a slide hammer and a Propane torch works well also. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
just got through replacing mine. i found a place online where you can get front and rears for $12.50 and they are the stock Buell parts, NTN bearings. PM me if you want to know where as I do not want to post it here. I actually have an extra set. Or if you want A+ premium bearings, PM fullpower and he can hook you up. you do not need a special tool or press! a long punch and a hammer and some large sockets. hit them out with the long punch (from the opposite side of the wheel through the axle hole, just tap the metal sleeve over and hit the bearings in a circular pattern to get them to come out even) then use a socket that fits nicely on the outer race and tap the socket in a circular motion until they are flush. (make sure to use the outer race when installing, as if you use the inner race you can damage the bearings) with wheels off it took no more then 5 minutes for all 4 bearings. oh, but please note once you remove them this way i would suggest always replacing them! easy as pie! also make sure the end of your punch has a nice flush edge, if its beat a bit, just grind it down. oh and make sure the socket covers the outer race well, as if its too small you can cause damage that way as well. | ||
| Brandonsbuell |
Rah777777 that's good advice thanks, if you could PM that info I would appreciate. Also, I'm not sure if I understand what you mean by a "punch." Wouldn't a long screwdriver do the trick? Isn't that essentially what a punch is? | ||
| Rah7777777 |
well you are going to need something that can take a good beating, as you do have to hit the punch with some good force and a screwdriver would just crack into pieces at the handle. basically just a long piece of solid metal that won't bend or break with a smaller flat end. | ||
| Norrie |
That's how I have always done bearings in the past but I thought on an XB the spacer between the bearings could not be moved enough to use a punch? I am also fitting new spacers just in case that they are crushed so it wouldn't be a problem if I damage the spacers as long as I don't damage the wheel. Norrie. | ||
| Hogs |
Norrie, Thats a good point you bring up, Thats the way I have did bearings in the past as well.. But not sure if them spacers can be moved to the side enough on the xb`s to punch out the bearings...Rah7777777 So can one get a punch in there and move that inner spacer away enough to punch out them bearings??? I wd. think heating up around the outer edge of the alum. abit may help , but then again Don`t think one could heat it enough to make any difference , also without heating the bearings as well the same time causing them also to grow in size What ya think??? Last thing one wants to do is bang them out and causing alum. to either come out with the old bearings, or egg shaping the holes any, for the new bearings to be seated into... | ||
| Rah7777777 |
the first one on each side is a bit tough, as the spacer is tight, but gently tap it over. It will go, not very far but enough to get a bite on the inner race (the inner race is okay to beat on as long as the bearing is headed for the garbage can) And make sure your punch has a good clean edge. I had to take mine to the grinder. after the first one is out the spacer can come out and the other side is easy. Oh and you will need a really long punch for the rear. but in most cases I don't think heating it will help too much as well as I don't think in "most" cases you'd have any problems | ||
| Hogs |
Right on... What about when tapping the new ones back in IS it easy to know when they bottom out on the seats so one don`t keep tapping them in and they are allready at home plate?? | ||
| Rah7777777 |
the pitch of the "ting....ting....ting...." will change :-) make sure you hit the socket only, don't hit the bearing directly! and then to be double sure you can get a small flat piece of wood and do a few real good wacks with that. but it is obvious when you bottom out. | ||
| Smokescreen |
They aren't cheap, but look at Woodcraft ceramic bearings if your looking for non-oem replacements. http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/Scripts/default.asp Smokescreen | ||
| Rah7777777 |
No joke!! they arent cheap by any means! | ||
| Al_lighton |
After seeing WAY too many wheel bearings spin in the bores in Buell wheels, I would not recommend any extraction or insertion methods that involve tapping the bearings in or out. It is way to easy to have the bearings "walk" out and thereby traumatize the bores, which eventually results in bearing spin. IMHO, you should ALWAYS press them out or use a puller, and NOT the slide hammer type. ALWAYS Heat the wheel and freeze the bearing prior to pressing it in. I don't like the screw type inserters, they take too long and the temps equalize too fast. YMMV Al | ||
| Norrie |
So do you use a press to put them back in as well Al? I was worried about putting to much pressure on the wheel when the bearing seats itself. Norrie. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Well with what AL said, maybe the "correct" way is the way to go!! He has seen way more of these then I have or hell for the most part, most of us. So i'd put money on it he knows what he is talking about :-) Or is he just wanting us to buy his tools  So with that, please ignore my previous posts as it may cause harm. But i'll let you know how mine work out as I have done a few sets this way with no problems, but you just never know! | ||
| Al_lighton |
Yup, I press 'em back in too. But if you get the wheel hot and the bearings cold, the forces are quite reasonable, you just have to work fast. I use one of the Harbor Freight 20 ton presses, it fits a wheel just fine with a tire unmounted. If you're pressing on the outer race (and you obviously should never press on the inner race), I don't think you can overdo the forces since once it bottoms out, it is pretty obvious that you should stop cranking on the lever. I have a couple wheels here that have spun bores. I can't bring myself to throw them away, but they're useless as is. I know of some ways to save them, but so far, the cost of doing it is more than the cost of a wheel, so I haven't bothered. It is precision machining to do it right. I have seen many with spun bores, and these pages are full of folks that have had the same experience. You only get a certain number of bearing swaps in these cast aluminum wheels even if done properly, so I personally wouldn't risk it. Al | ||
| Jramsey |
Al I guess I should clarify how I use my Morgan Knocker for bearing removal. I insert the expanding mandrel in the bearing then screw in the threaded expander stud thru the hub from the opposite side and slide a corresponding bushing for the stud OD. bearing ID. so to keep it concentric so the bearing doesn't try to kock on the way out. I then thread the slide shaft which also has a stop collar onto the stud and push the bearing out instead of pulling. One wack sometimes two to get the bearings out, with a little heat of course. I know machine shop rates are expensive out there. Here in the Midwest things are little cheaper. I sleeve hubs for many different applications it usually runs 50 to 75 bucks per side depending on setup time. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Al, If those wheels don't have severely gouged and roughened bores, you can probably get another use out of them with the Loctite Seal and Bearing Retainer (it is green in color), it is pretty amazing stuff. I seen it used to save spun races and spinning bearings on axles on 10 yard dump trucks and things like that. And it stood up to it under some really rough use and conditions. The stuff is claimed to be good with up to .006 or .008" or radial play, a loose drop in fit. I've even had it work with a layer of shim stock added also to take up most of the play. As always, the cleaner and better the degreasing the better it is. And give it the full cure time laying horizontal if you can. If the wheel is a write off its worth a try... Jack | ||
| T9r |
Using parts I had on hand I used a "concrete drop-In anchor" to remove the bearings.  I bought two of them and modified one of them. I used each of them in different ways. I think it was the 3/4" anchor that I bought, it was large. I also bought a bolt for it. When the bolt is screwed into it the anchor, it expands the legs, making a snug fit. Then with a jaw press I pushed the bearing pack out. The anchor that I modified - I cut the legs off the anchor and used them with another larget bolt in the center. The 3 legs wedged against the bolt and I was able to push the bearing pack out. Just some other ideas. | ||
| Bikenut |
Thanks for the great tip Rah7777 on getting the bearings out. Worked great. |
