| Author | Message | ||
     Od54 |
This has been an on going problem for a couple of weeks now, but this morning it has gotten worse. It doesn't seem to have a very defined pattern. At first it happened on a warm day, 80 degrees, in pretty heavy traffic. I was taking off from stop signs and it would loose all power. A couple of blips of the throttle and it would clear and I'd be fine. Since then it has happened in cooler weather, 40-60 degrees. It has also progressed to doing it randomly while I'm just cruising at 65 mph on top of the idling at a stop or idling while slowing. When it happens at speed, it tends to fall out from under me, I'll blip the throttle a little, and it takes off hard all over again. This all happens as fast as I can react to it. I have also ridden through a patch of rain that you couldn't see through for more than a couple hundred feet and nothing happened. In between occurrences, which has been as many as 100 miles or as few as half a mile, it runs like a champ, accidental wheelies, bursts to triple digits, smooth cruising. I have a few ideas of my own, but since I have not owned a Buell for very long I'd like some more experienced opinions. For now I'll not bias the conversation with my own. | ||
| Midknyte |
The ECM will throw a random engine cough at you if the system voltage is low (battery is going). Get that load tested first and then get a battery tender. If that checks out, get some new sparkplugs. Cheap enough to take a gamble on to see if it helps and they are something you want to replace at interval anyway. I use the Buell Pro Plugs. I think they have a reputation for not fouling as easy as the originals. Start the plugs in BY HAND to avoid cross threading. Use a length of fuel hose as an extension to start the rear plug in. You'll need to remove the air scoop to get at the front plug. You do not need to remove the inner airbox to get to the rear plug - just use a ratchet extension with universal joint in it. Use some anti-sieze on the plug threads and just snug them up being careful not to strip your threads. Adjust your idle to 1000 to 1050 rpm. The adjuster screw is just inside of the air scoop on the left side of the bike. Avoid the temptation to do it by hand and use an allen wrench so you don't burn your hand. Then, get your bike out on a stretch of highway and run the engine at around 3500 to 4000 rpm for 10 minutes straight to let the ECM calibrate. These are easy and relatively inexpensive things that you can do that will make the bike happier even if they are not the problem. | ||
| M1combat |
Check your battery cables too. | ||
| Point_doc |
I have a 2004 XB12S, and I had a similar problem. I had a wire that runs from under the front fairing to the fuse box start having intermittent connection before it broke. I was able to duplicate the problem by turning the handlebars to their limit both directions. This would stretch the wire and cause the motor to die. The break was at the neck of the frame. The wire exits the light housing and wraps around the left side frame. It was at this point my wire was bad. Good luck, John | ||
| Sam_07 |
Are you losing all electrical power (lights, cluster) or only the motor stalling? | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
Always start with the basics...check battery condition and connections. | ||
| Midknyte |
Yep. Those battery connectors really do work their way loose eventually. | ||
| Point_doc |
Since your under the seat, you also might want to pull and inspect each of your fuses. Fuses can go bad or start to have an intermittent problem before they totally blow. Just pull them out and inspect (esp. the two prongs used for contact) sometimes corrosion can collect on these two aluminum prongs, clean the surrounding area and reinstall. | ||
| Od54 |
Battery cables was on my list of ideas as well as a chaffed wire. I'll be sure too look into both. I do know at least once I saw the gauges reset like they lost power. I had forgotten about that, thanks for the reminder. I haven't been on it at night to know if the lights go too. Some other nuances that I maybe should have mentioned are that I get only 39 mpg, idle is lower than suggested above, probably 850-900. It has also started popping on decel. That just started after the crank case breather relocation. The relocation was done a couple of days after all this started. | ||
| Od54 |
I forgot my manners too. Thanks for all the help so far. I really appreciate it. | ||
| Werewulf |
the idle speed is adjusted by a screw on the unit and not by the ECM? | ||
| Buellin |
Been there... Maybe... kickstand kill switch? | ||
| Midknyte |
the idle speed is adjusted by a screw on the unit and not by the ECM? yes. I agree it is odd. | ||
| Od54 |
Update: Only had time to clean the battery terminals and cables last night. Lights are brighter but... New info: It happened on the way to work today, again, three times. Twice on the interstate at 70-80 mph, steady throttle, no steering inputs. This time I was more vigilant on the gauges and noticed that the gauges reset but the idiot lights and the clock stayed on. Obviously the check engine light came and stayed on. The brights indicator also remained on. This time when it stalled it didn't come back right away. It only came back when I gave it full throttle. It continued to do it and only came back to me a full throttle again. Has anyone had an ECM or a Daytona Twin Tec go bad on them? I'll check the kill switch. On that note, I know once I was just into a ride and it was down and I found out by it dragging. | ||
| Xb12s_streetdemon |
make sure you check all your grounds to the frame and tail section | ||
| Od54 |
In my experience, most FI vehicles use the set screw to adjust the idle but also have an idle air bypass valve that mainly helps keep the motor from dying when it is spinning down and the throttle is closed. Most of my experience is with ford EEC-IV fuel injection. With those systems, when the computer senses a wide open throttle it basically goes open loop and dumps a lot of fuel and gives it some more timing. Does the DDFI in the Buells do the same thing? The way it was acting this morning, running at those momoents only when wide open, I am assuming so. I understand that the closed loop from 3500-4000 is where it "learns" but is it referencing the O2 at all at other RPM's? UPDATE: It has now started backfiring through the intake. I'm worried it may not be soley electrical. (Message edited by od54 on May 02, 2008) (Message edited by od54 on May 02, 2008) | ||
| Frequency |
have the relay to your starter check. My 05 CityX had similar problems. I would try and give it more but she felt like she hit a ceiling, i would stall through turns and on straight aways, i would have issues starting. | ||
| Od54 |
Starter is turning over fine, but I'll check anything right now. Worst part is I won't be able to work on it this weekend as it's the woman and my anniversary and we're head to St. Louis. Just to take one more possibility out of play, I disconnected the Twin Tec at lunch and rewired the plugs so it's back to stock. I've got a good stretch of super slab as soon as I leave work so I'll try to keep the prescribed RPM's. Somebody please tell me it's cumulative though, I'd hate to be half way through and have to start over again bc of dueling semi's. Did the ride at the recommended rpm, still did it, but much less without the tuner and for a much shorter duration. What would the tuner aggrevate/amplify? The only thing I can think of is the ECM. Now it is coughing through the intake when it happens. Maybe always did, but I didn't notice until now. (Message edited by od54 on May 02, 2008) | ||
| Od54 |
UPDATE: I've had my first successful ride in days. To divide the potential causes, I replaced the ignition relay with a jumper between the load side terminals. This should have effectively isolated the clutch switch, start/stop switch, neutral switch (? I can't remember for sure on the last one, I don't have my manual in front of me), and the wiring to/from each. It would also have isolated the kick stand kill switch but for some reason there are no provisions for it. Based on the vin # it's a late '03 model so maybe it was already switched to the new style stand. | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
I've had that issue since mine was new. Its an 05 XB12 Firebolt. I've replaced the battery, the plugs and wires, the ECM, checked everything for loose connections and worn spots (one plug wire was worn almost through). Last week I had SEVERAL no starts and a few dead while driving, I fixed those by cleaning and resetting the ignition relay but the intermittent miss, cough is still there, sometimes it runs GREAT sometimes not. Had the dealer look at it, what a shocker, they found nothing wrong. It doesn't throw any trouble codes?????????????????????????????? | ||
| Squash |
mine did this too. first check batt. maybe replace. check for loose ground. change plugs. and also if your bike has upgrades such as exhaust, intake, or re-maped, hic-ups are common. these bikes constantly want fuel!!! | ||
| Spatten1 |
Sidestand switch: Unplug it. If it is supposed to be closed, jump it with a paper clip. If it is supposed to be open, just leave it unplugged. | ||
| Frausty12r |
Not to hijack a thread, rather collaborate Oddly, I'm having a similar problem that just recently started. 05 `bolt 23k miles, 2 second stutter/missing approx 3300 rpm steady throttle. Short while later, no symptoms, but a check engine lamp for maybe a second. Since then, no check engine lamp, but sporadic dies, with no tach/speedo sweep/check engine/oil pressure lamps. I do know I need to replace the belt, and am wondering if thats what I'm feeling is the 1" of deflection my drive belt has  Any Ideas? Already replaced battery as the OEM was dead (~6 months prior to the symptoms) charged battery - day of first symptom (5 days ago) Still getting intermittent stutter/hesitation at roughly mid RPM range. I'm also looking at possible ignition signal interruption/coil failure, but don't have access to a VOMeter and don't trust digitals for resistance (circuitry has resistance) Will keep you updated! |
