| Author | Message | ||
     Jhanz |
I searched this site and found nothing on this. Is there a way to get access to the rear header bolts (2006 XB9SX), in order to check the tightness and to retorque if necessary? Or, does the engine have to be rotated to do this? Thanks! JH | ||
| Damnut |
I believe that you can get in there with a 3/8 swivel head. I know you can get in there with 1/4" socket and extension. | ||
| Glitch |
Careful there! Do not over tighten! | ||
| Cudajohn |
You should never trust a torque value gained with and extension unless you do the math on it and never ever torque something with a swivel. May as well not even put a torque wrench on it. | ||
| Richmotor |
Yes. The rear header bolts can be tightened with a swivel socket. I got 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn out of mine at 1500 miles using a 1/4 drive ratchet. Which leads me to question the need to rotate the engine for header removal. If the 02 sensor can be removed from above, it looks like i could wiggle the header out after the muffler and header nuts are removed Rich | ||
| Jos51700 |
Use 1/2" swivel head. 3/8 is too small. CudaJohn is right, too. Just twist a little and make sure they're not loose. | ||
| M1combat |
"Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" "Do not over tighten!" If your headers aren't falling off or you don't have a specific reason to tighten them then DON'T. You think getting to the rear header nuts is tough? Try removing a broken header stud from the rear head. Oh and... You can remove the header without rotating the engine. Use a shaved down crows foot. You'll need to bend one of the fins on the rear head. It's a lot easier to just rotate the damn engine. I really don't understand why people are so afraid of it. Remove the two front bolts on the front engine mount bracket. Remove the engine side bolt on the upper engine tie bar (under the airbox cover and base). Remove the engine side bolt on the front engine tie bar. Remove both bolts from the coil. Remove muffler. Place jack under engine, remove front engine isolator mount bolt. Lower jack. Remove header. When you replace the muffler... Do it EXACTLY like the service manual says to. Do NOT over tighten the muffler straps. It's much more difficult to walk back and forth between a grinder and the bike to get the crows foot ground down correctly AND get the damn crows foot in there and turn it (because you can only go about 1/6 of a turn before it will require movement on the O2. You won't get an O2 sensor socket on it. It takes about 20 minutes or so to rotate the engine once you know how to do it. Just do it that way. (Message edited by m1combat on April 13, 2008) | ||
| Teeps |
Engine rotation is that easy? Remove the two front bolts on the front engine mount bracket. Remove the engine side bolt on the upper engine tie bar (under the airbox cover and base). Remove the engine side bolt on the front engine tie bar. Remove both bolts from the coil. Remove muffler. Place jack under engine, remove front engine isolator mount bolt. Lower jack. Remove header. | ||
| Damnut |
Remove muffler. I believe that you should also remove the belt tensioner pulley at this point, so you don't put too much stress on the belt. Place jack under engine, remove front engine isolator mount bolt. | ||
| M1combat |
and you'll have to remove the scoops at some point. You'll need to remove the seat, airbox cover and base as well. It's really easy. Thanks for catching that last omission Damnut  . As you're lowering it make sure the clutch cable doesn't hook around the front corner of the primary. (Message edited by m1combat on April 13, 2008) | ||
| Treadmarks |
+2 for rotating the engine. It does not take that long, and provides you with the opportunity to do things right the first time. I used screaming eagle exhaust gaskets, as they do not block the ports when compressed and do not require a retorque afterwards. | ||
| The_new_guy |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/242065.html?1178124119 | ||
| Nautique4life |
+1 zillion on over tightening. I think M1Combat said it best. I have broken 2 exhaust studs. I repaired them also. If you do break one, sadly, there is information on that here as well. I find it's best to just spot check the 3 studs you can access with ease after every couple rides. |
