| Author |
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Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 02:38 pm: | 
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Firebolteric_ma
You Sir I believe are correct,my ole lady works for Fastenal in sales and they purchase their fasteners from places all over world the U.S.included, but the biggest majority does come from China and Taiwan which is stated on the country of origin labels.
I'd bet both my nuts that MSC,ENCO,McMaster-Carr,GM,Ford,Chrysler and H-D Buell do the same. |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 02:43 pm: |
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Fastener distribution is a great business, still fragmented and sales oriented.
I had a client that did that. Pallets of commodity bolts from the best price/quality source were re-packaged in his back room into smaller boxes with his company's name on them. He could have a different supplier/manufacturer with every order. |
Xl1200r
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 02:50 pm: |
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One time I rebuilt a small block Chevy engine for a race car and reused every single nut and bolt in the thing. In half a lap, wouldn't you know it, every single one of them came loose. Bolts were flying everywhere - one busted the radiator open which spewed coolant onto the left front tire, I lost control going into turn 3, smashed through the wall, over the embankment and into the trees. Another bolt flew out and sparked against the gas tank, the car caught fire and blew up moments after I escaped, made possible by a flying bolt with broke open the safety net latch for me so I didn't have to fiddle with it.
Moral of the story: reusing bolts saves lives.
On a serious note... how many of you guys who replace these bolts everytime you remove them also replace every stud and nut on every wheel of your car when you take the wheels of it? I worked in a garage for a long time, and took off a lot of wheels. The studs or nuts got replaces when they needed it - you could see the damage, or feel the stretch. Otherwise, the old ones got reused. Last I knew, there were cars running all over the place with wheels falling off.
(Message edited by xl1200r on April 09, 2008) |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:15 pm: |
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Xl1200r
Thats funny.
BTW guys if you read the flashing red paragraph at the top of this forum shouldn't the OP's original question been posted in the K/V?
I still can't believe anyone would pay $24.00 for $3.00 worth(at retail) of bolts.
I spent less then that on the 18-8 stainless bolts on my inferior Tuber.
Us cavemen like shiny things.
Col.Potter was my Doc. |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:17 pm: |
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LOL.
That's what you get for using all them stretched bolts. |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:24 pm: |
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I re-used the drain plug on my truck when changing the oil this weekend. I'm going out the parking lot right now to see if it's backing out. I hope there is still oil in the engine. |
Damnut
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:49 pm: |
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NOW I GET IT!!!!!! I always wonder why people tell me that I have loose screws in my head.............. that's cause I reuse them..... DUH |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:51 pm: |
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Spatten1
I've got one better, true story.
Last winter my ole lady drove my truck to town and while there thought she'd do me a favor and have the oil changed at quick lube.
Anywhoo 2 months ago I went to change it because it was due again found that they cross threaded the drain plug,liked to never got it out.
Ran a 12x1.25 mm tap to cleanup the threads in the pan but the plug was toast and it was Sunday afternoon so to this day I'm driving around with a NGK D8ES spark plug in the pan. |
Xl1200r
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:57 pm: |
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James,
I hate to tell you, but I'm betting that spark plug is probably fouled at this point. Make sure you change it with the next oil change. |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 04:06 pm: |
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Dude, that is a great story! Junkyard wars has nothing on you. |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 04:06 pm: |
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Mark,
It came out of a Tuber so it was already "fouled." |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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"On a serious note... how many of you guys who replace these bolts everytime you remove them also replace every stud and nut on every wheel of your car when you take the wheels of it? I worked in a garage for a long time, and took off a lot of wheels. The studs or nuts got replaces when they needed it - you could see the damage, or feel the stretch. Otherwise, the old ones got reused. Last I knew, there were cars running all over the place with wheels falling off. "
Every 3rd time, on my stuff. I do however look at them every time I get in or out of my car, and if a nut backs off, it's not likely to lock up a wheel. |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 05:01 pm: |
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If you are running steel wheels you'd better replace them every few tire changes or rotations too. The lip where the lug nut seats on the wheel typically acts as a spring loaded locking mechanism, like a lock washer. It has to loose its ability to retain the original tension. |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 05:15 pm: |
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The term for the conical shaped mounting hole in steel automotive wheels is "coined" which acts as a Belleville type washer and you are correct on its purpose.
As far as sprocket bolts go,...... heck why not drill the heads and safety wire them. |
Blackbichgsx
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 05:32 pm: |
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So, going back into the thread. Has it been determined that the thread size for a 04+ XB is 3/8 x 14 x 1-1/2?
14 is not a thread count for a standard 3/8 bolt, so I am guessing it is suppose to be 3/8-16 x 1.5?
Does anyone know the thread length?
Is the bolt fully threaded?
(Message edited by blackbichGSX on April 09, 2008) |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 06:57 pm: |
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I've got a serious question:
when you torque a steel bolt into an aluminum wheel, what stretches or deforms more, the bolt or the wheel? |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 09:13 pm: |
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Fred,
3/8 coarse is 16TPI 7/16 coarse is 14TPI.
Scott
Steel threads are most generally figured depth/thickness equals bolt diameter, as in a 1/2" bolt needs a nut or threads 1/2" deep.
Aluminum is figured 50%more thread depth.
That is where studs are superior in all applications,run them in till they bottom and torque,then install the nuts.
With studs you don't have near the worry of pulling threads. |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 03:25 am: |
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Scott,
If you are talking about tensile (bolt) and compressive (sprocket and wheel hub) deformation outside of the threads, in the surrounding material so to speak, then you'd need to ratio the effective cross sectional areas--the wheel likely has a lot more than the bolt (see sketch below) --and also elastic modulus where steel is about three times the stiffness of aluminum alloy. But with decent thread depth or bolt engagement, the effective area likely governs.
The darker shaded regions of the two bolted sections are in compression, which is reacting the full clamp load imparted by the bolt, which is of course in tension. |
Xl1200r
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 08:25 am: |
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Enough with this jibber jabber. Just weld the thing on. There no need to take it off anyways. |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 08:50 am: |
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"There no need to take it off anyways."
That's kind of what I'm thinking.
It sure seems to happen alot here..... |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 09:49 am: |
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I take mine off when mounting new tires......sure saves in the busted knuckles dept.
I don't know about the cast wheels but my PM's hub OD. measured .040 smaller then the pulley and the rotor carrier ID.
I turned some .019 thick aluminum sleeves and pressed them on the wheel hubs.
Pulley/rotors F/R runout is now under .005
Rear wheel needed no weights to balance and the front only took 3/8 oz.
(Message edited by J.ramsey on April 10, 2008) |
Spatten1
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 05:43 pm: |
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Thanks Blake, good stuff. |
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