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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through March 22, 2008 » Torx bit snapped off in my pulley bolt!!!! « Previous Next »

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Americanmadexb
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

To make a long story short, the t45 bit we use to take the bolts out of the rear belt pulley snapped clean off.

How do i get this out??? I was supposed to drop my wheels off tomorrow to get my tires switched out to my new rims(thank you Badlionsfan) but i cant get the rear rotor off either..

2 trips to autozone, and 2 twisted t40 bits later for the rear rotor, i said screw it. So i go to do the pulley on the other side. Got 3 bolts loose, the 4th...SNAP!!

I did talk to my buddy who works a a Harley dealership down the road and he said they will fix it for me and swap the rotor and pulley!

Just incase they dont do this, what do i do??

i think when i do get them out, im switching over to a hex style bolt, for both sides!
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Buelltroll
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A grabit bit.
Or heat.
http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1

(Message edited by buelltroll on March 18, 2008)
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Xbjelly9s
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Heat them with a heat gun or hair dryer. Buy quality bits.
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

damn, maybe it was just a long 10 hour day at work, but heat never crossed my mind!

if they can't fix it tomorrow, that Grabit will be on order!

i will also be heading to Sears! It was late and autozone was about 2 miles down the road, as to about 15 to sears!

(Message edited by americanmadexb on March 18, 2008)
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Spatten1
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Those bolts have some heavy duty thread locker or interference thread. They come out and go back in hard.

I think the manual says to replace them each R&R. I never have.
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Saintly
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I replace them with 3/8 coarse thread grade 8 hex heads.

Torx are a burden!
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Try this.

1. apply PB Blaster or liquid wrench. Allow to soak in. Tap with hammer.

2. Heat with hair dryer.

3. If I recall correctly, those bolt heads are high enough to get a large Vise Grip wrench on. (Don't ask). Remove bolts.

4. Replace the bolts, preferably with the nice chrome ones, if you like that kind of thing.

5. Buy some Snap On or other really high quality Torx bits. Makes a big difference.

6. I think these bolts may have been attached with red Loctite, the strong one. Not necessary. Blue, medium, will do the job.
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Damnut
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

grab the bolts with a pair of Vise-Grips and be done with it. No need for heat or a Grabit. The heads of those bolts are big enough to grab with Vise-Grips.
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Speedfreaks101
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sears also has their version of the Grabit but I would drill it and use an screw extractor (aka ease out) while applying heat. You might consider a pencil torch but make sure that no matter the source that you do not heat the entire area, just the part you are working on.

If you do use an ease out buy quality because there is nothing worse than breaking and ease out and having try and remove it (you need Oral Roberts to get out a broken tap or ease out). Also use a tap handle and not an adjustable wrench. This way it prevents side loading and the less chance of breaking the ease out.

My reasoning for not wanting to use the Grabit style bit is that I don't think it would be well suited to a stuck fastener, but great on typical screws. It works fast but with a larger faster fastener locked in place you need to have more control so that you can tell if the extractor is slipping and if it is about to break.

just my .02
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M1combat
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've broken a half dozen autozone torx bits.

Get Craftsman stuff.
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Mtg
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Try this.

1. apply PB Blaster or liquid wrench. Allow to soak in. Tap with hammer.
}


+1 for that method
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Hogs
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well .. IF ya got a friend or know of a good Mig welder Get them to sit a nut say, in the center of the bolt thats broken off, mig weld fill the nut to the broken bolt fill up with weld... The heat alone will help to break the bond, then put a wrench on the nut, and turn out easy as 1,2,3

I think ...YEs they have some heavy Duty lock tight on them threads, PB Blaster etc. etc ya can put on till the cows come home won`t help at all to lossen them up, IF its red Loctite or the same strength, And I know its a HD> lock tight not sure its red though...FWIW

(Message edited by hogs on March 18, 2008)
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks guys. it did cross my mind to use vise grips, but i just knew i would scrape up the pulleys paint.

i will see if my local HD gets it fixed tomorrow. If not, the vise grips come out and i go get a can of flat black!!!
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Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2008 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Heat is the trick.. IIRC the tuber SM used to tell you to use heat. I remember using heat and my electric impact.

Neil S.
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 06:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've broken a half dozen autozone torx bits.

Get Craftsman stuff.


yeah, tell that to the snap-on and craftsman bit that were twisted in the removal of the brake disc on americanmadexb's new wheels. an air hammer was used to finally get the last bolt to bust lose.
Ian, you do know that you're not supposed to reuse your hardware right?
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yes i do know that, but i normally reuse a bolt once as long as it checks out! never had any problems doing so. I clean out the loctight real good and pop um back in. i did not however reuse my exhaust straps!

(Message edited by americanmadexb on March 19, 2008)
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 06:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

did you get that busted bolt out?
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Spiderman
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is a trick I use for removing broken orx bits and another for ease of removing sproket bolts.

Torx
If the head snaps off and is flush with the bolt head there are can be a few ways to get her out.

1 Air, a srong air gun can pop that SOB out, it will be moving at the speed of light when it does so put a rag over it. If you can not get it out by just blowing give it a few whacks with a heavy ball peen hammer and punch.

2. If air and punch fails it is time to bring out the cutting wheel! Sloth the broken bit and bolt head, this will put a slot in the bolt and hopefully cut the broken boit in 1/2, or close enough you can use a punch or chisel to get it the res of the way out.

Bolt removal

Along with heat I take a long brass drift that will fit in the center of the bolt and whack it with that large ball peen hammer. This gives the oxidation and loctite a good jolt and useally breaks all chemical bonds.
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Road_thing
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Propane torch works for me.

Damn these torx head bolts
Invention of the devil
I always strip them


rt
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i dropped the wheels off at my local HD yesterday. my buddy works there and is going to get the bolts off and swap my tires for me! i told him to replace the torx with hex bolts... im not dealing with that again!
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Skinstains
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2008 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have replaced all of my sprocket and rotor bolts(XB9 & XB12)with grade 8 bolts that come with the lock-tite already on the threads. I have used a dremmel to put a really big slot in the torx head and used a flathead bit on a "slammer" to get them out. I have also used vise-grips. When the visegrips fail I get the dremmel out and cut two flats on the head and use a wrench.
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