| Author | Message | ||
     Kaydo |
So after a perfectly smooth coast to coast trip, I returned home and started doin tricks and one of my wheelies left me laying on the street. I did all the repairs myself and she's ridable again but there's one nagging problem I don't really know what to do about. The mount on the right side got sheared off. Here's pictures. Any advice? I'm trying to avoid taking it to the shop since the repairs have been homemade the rest of the way.  | ||
| Randomchaos |
I cant tell, is it just the bolt that got sheared? | ||
| Cereal |
It does look like it's just the bolt from this view. Take another pic from the front of the bike. | ||
| Kaydo |
oh sorry, the description is pretty vague...yes just the bolt got sheared off but I don't know what to do to pull it back into place. as you can see it's only about an inch and a half above where it should be. i'll post another pic i have from further back. one suggestion i got from a friend was to tie straps around the bottom and suspend it from the top of my shed to use the weight of it to pull it back together. that sounds like a pain though. another guy said to take off the other mount and see if it's any easier to pull the whole thing down at once but i'm worried if I dismount the front completely then i won't even be able to ride it to the shop if that fails (no truck so I'd have to bug a friend). at this point i can ride it, but obviously it's not safe.  | ||
| Ccryder |
No it is not safe! That is a REAL understatement. If the RH bolt is out of place that far, then you have a real problem. Time to get the SM out and see how to rotate the engine down and remove the sheared bolt. I would suggest replacing the other mounting bolts as well. Note: Most of these bolts are not just run-of-the-mill hardware style bolts. You should only replace them with Buell OEM bolts per their installation instructions. I would also check out the front engine mount VERY carefully and the tie bar mounts. Too bad your landings were not as smooth as your coast-to-coast trip. Neil S.. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Just unbolt the other side, it should give enough to get to the bolt. See if it can be scored so you can use a screwdriver to get it loose. Add some heat from the heat gun if necessary. An "easy out" will most likely take it out easily also. *****DO NOT take it to a Stealership!!!!!!***** you will end up with many more of them if you do!!!! | ||
| Cereal |
You shouldn't have to rotate the motor at all. You may have just bent the W bracket assembly. Try loosening the bolts on the other two points of the bracket and the front tie bar to see if you can reposition it. If it is bent, a new one is around $220 (part#: L0511.02A8). I noticed your profile says you are in Baltimore. I live in Northwestern DC, have an 03 service manual, and have torn mine down to the frame. So let me know if you need any help. | ||
| Cereal |
Eric beat me to the finish line. Forgot to mention, I sheared one my bolts too. I took a dremel, cut a notch in it, and it unscrewed very easily. (Message edited by cereal on February 25, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
I'm not sure what's holding the bolt-head in the frame. The frame doesn't have any threads..... I've seen BRAND NEW Y-frames that are that far out of alignment, and a ratchet strap took care of the alignment issue (finding something to strap to is the hard part). So, at this point, I'm thinking there's a bolt broken off in the threads of the Y-frame, and the bolt head should come out of the frame hole fairly easily. Worst-case: the bolt is whole, just bent, and needs to be cut off via grinding, cutting, or bending to fatigue. In this instance, I would replace the Y-frame, just because of the nature of vehicular accidents (Possibly bent elsewhere), but other than that (And it's easy, remove the regulator/rectifier, drop the oil cooler and charcoal cannister if applicable, and unbolt everything else. Y-frame falls off. New one fall on. You don't even need to lose any oil.)there's nothing intimidating about this. I agree, check all other mounts, and tie-bars. If the bolt threads broke off in the Y-frame, I'd be more worried about re-using the Y-frame, than getting the bolt out and reusing it. Engine rotation is NOT required for this. A bent Y-frame is your call, but like I said, I've seen NEW ones, not line up. And to clarify, you're pulling the sub-frame up, not the frame, down (One post was kinda confusing). | ||
| Buzzie |
sorry ...but i gotta say it ..... ITS NOT A Y FRAME. ITS A W. BRACKET. and you should be able to do a screw extraction easily enough. and if your not sure ...take it to a dealer ..any knowledgable tech should be able to fix it within an hour to an hour and a half. | ||
| Kaydo |
yea i can get the sheared bolt out, my problem is realigning the frame/bracket/whatever it's called to get a new one in and lined up. As far as bending it all back in place, I just don't have any tools to do that as is. I'm hesitant to take any other mounts off cuz it really feels like it's not budging and if I remove the other bolts and it pops out of place from the force, I'm no longer able to ride it to the dealer (I know it's unsafe now but what can I say? I ride one of these to begin with, right?) I guess I'll just give it a shot, but if I can't pull the frame down with my two arms it'll be a dealer job anyway. Thanks for all the input. | ||
| Cereal |
Kaydo, seriously, you are making a huge deal out of absolutely nothing. The W bracket is not load bearing. You can take it completely off and the motor will stay put (as long as you don't go for ride like that). I've done it a few times. And you are not pulling the frame down, you are pulling the W bracket up. No special tools are necessary, besides a torque wrench that you can rent an many auto parts stores. Even if the entire W bracket needs to be replaced, the entire job should take less than half an hour. As I said before, PM me if you are having trouble. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"ITS NOT A Y FRAME. ITS A W. BRACKET. " Sorry, Jeez. it has 3 legs, and 3 endpoints, Like a Y not 4 legs and 5 endpoints, like a W But if it matters to you, I'm proud for ya. | ||
| Cereal |
Just fyi in case Kaydo has to order one, it is called a W bracket.  I see what you're saying Jos, Buz shouldn't have 'yelled.' But we don't want Kaydo to call some jerk behind a HD parts counter and have the guy screw with him because he can't find Y frame in the book. (Message edited by cereal on February 26, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
Word to that. I should've figured that some of the same buttholes that came up with the StupidSystem of part numbering would see a W there, instead of a Y. I figured they'd call it, "bracket, overpriced, steel." or some such. I also try to be descriptive where I think the technical name might not be understood through text alone. Example? "Isolator, Engine," that's located on page "Fork, Rear" in the HD FLT manual. WTF is that? It's a biscuit mount just like our tubeframes use... | ||
| Kaydo |
Thanks for the input, I did take the W Bracket off and proceeded to break off two screw extractors on each side trying to pull the piece out, so on that note I went ahead and ordered a new one since I found one slightly cheaper on ebay. Any idea what the part number on the bolt for that is? I can always walk in the store and show it to them, but it'll save me the trip if I can just call it in ahead. Thanks. |
