|Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 10:25 pm: ||
OK... As if this horse ain't dead enough...
I'm trying get this rig back to where it came from the factory. I've gotten the stock exhaust back on, but at the time (unbeknownst to me) I knew nothing of the flapper valve "interactive exhaust" deal.
I've now acquired e a service manual BUT, here's my trouble. I think I'm missing a fastener that goes on the end of the cable at the pipe. I also think the idjit that chopped the can off re-routed the cable once he unhooked it.
Can anyone post a shot of the original cable routing and what the mechanism looks like from the factory. There's not a good one in the service manual.
I'm hoping I can get this done without taking the pipe back off.
|Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 11:01 am: ||
getting that little cable into the actuator properly without taking the exhaust back off is a HUGE pain. ... after spending an hour beating the heck out of some pillows i took off the exhaust did it in 10 seconds and put the exhaust back on. A much better decision.
|Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 09:11 am: ||
I got it done (by myself actually, tho I could've used 5 more arms and the hands of a 3 year old at times) with the aid of a shoe string. (tied it to end of the cable and pulled it through. Used a screwdriver as a "shoehorn" to get the cable in the groove. TA DAAAAH!! I still think there was quite a bit of luck involved. I also feel kinda dumb as I could've just unhooked it at the other end and had a much easier time getting it together at the "air cleaner" end.
Now that theoretically it's back to "stock" on the pipe, let me clue you into my other nasty discoveries as of yesterday.
So, to bring everyone up to speed. Got a great deal on this bike in B'ham AL. (starting to wonder about that).
Upon acquiring the bike I discover first. Previous idiot has sawed the back of the pipe off to make it sound more "Harley".
So, I finally get the original can with "interactive" exhaust on there and get the flapper valve hooked up. It works as the manual says it should (Hold throttle wide open the turn key on and watch it actuate)
Changed the oil and decided to change the plugs as I feared they might be fouled from running too lean. After finally getting one out as seeing it looked normal decided to leave the plugs in.
Now, as many of you are aware, to get the plugs out you must remove to air box yadda yadda.
Here's what I discovered: Previous IDIOT apparently went wild with dremel tool and whacked great holes in the air box to get more air in for his new custom pipe design.
Upon diggin in further, dude had buggered one of the torx fasteners that holds down the air box assembly beyond belief. Not only that, he had cross threaded it at such an angle that the combined efforts of center punch, chisel, bolt extractor and drill failed. We finally drilled till the head came off. (I'll be RE-threading that hole in the frame soon. OY!)
After all that, taped up "most" of the holes in the airbox. Bike STILL feels kinda sluggish. If you roll on the throttle slowly, it seems fair but it you whack it, it wants to sputter and backfire.
I remember the test ride not feeling like this. The new bikes are butter smooth from 2k onward.
How do I get back there.
ANy idears from you genius types?
(I've read the troubleshooting stuff in the service manual. I don't think I've blown any gaskets or such. I just think the idiot has hosed the mapping in some fashion.)
Am I missing something? Do I face the dreaded TPS re-set? Is there a dealer service trip in my future? (after my parts counter experiences I'm not exactly feeling all warm and fuzzy about the black and orange army.)
"PLEH" cried Professor Backwards!
|Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 09:49 am: ||
A TPS reset by a competent tech is often very helpful in these cases. Emphasis on competent.
I am wondering if this bike has a "Race" ECM? Sounds like something the previous owner might have done.
Most, but not all, of them are stamped. " Race Use Only".
If it does, it might be running a bit rich, now that you have put the intake and exhaust back to stock.
Finally, the Buell ECM needs to "learn" new setups and atmospherics.
To do this, ride between 3200 and 3500 rpm for several miles, constant throttle, to allow the computer to learn how to adjust the fuel injection. If that doesn't work, I would do the TPS.
Perhaps there is a Bad Webber in your neck of the woods with the software and knowledge to do it.
|Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 09:59 am: ||
Jon, those are good suggestions.
I'll go for the 3200/3500 ride this evening.
As for race ECM, I seriously doubt this crackah knew what an ECM was.